2003 Mercury Sable SRS Code 33 fix
Hi,
I have a 2003 Mercury Sable that needs several repairs done as it has high mileage and is my only means of transportation right now. I need help fixing an SRS error code 33. Does anybody know how to fix this? Please let me know, and if possible, picture help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have a 2003 Mercury Sable that needs several repairs done as it has high mileage and is my only means of transportation right now. I need help fixing an SRS error code 33. Does anybody know how to fix this? Please let me know, and if possible, picture help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Ok, after consultation with FMC Dealer, the lamp code 33 means driver's side pretensioner fault. If you did the code scan, it'd probably come up B2292, with some other numbers that would point you in the direction of the problem. What this code specifically means is that the resistance in the pretensioner circut is off (either high or low). The preten. has a very small explosive charge (which I affectionately refer to as the 'buckle bomb') that is monitored for a set range of resistance (usually between 2.5 to 3.5 ohms) and the light is activated if it's not right.
There are ways to test this, and it usually comes up as a pretensioner that's opened up (common problem). If you got about a 3 ohm resistor, unplugged the pretensioner, and connected the resistor while holding the shorting tab back (not easy, will require help), turn on the key and let it prove out. The light will go out if it's the pretensioner. If it doesn't, then there's a problem with either the RCM or wiring.
In the shop, we have little plugs that we use that do this same thing I just explained, but can be done with just one person.
As for the dash lights on your other post, this cluster doesn't have a specific transmission light; however, the CEL and Trac. Control light should prove out, then either come or go off depending on whatever shape the system(s) are in. If they don't even prove out, then you have the question of if they've been on forever and just burned out, or if something else is amiss. The easiest way to check this out if to remove the cluster, and first, check the connectors (one's black, the other white) to the cluster. Make sure they're clicked into the cluster. Take them out and try them again, and see if they prove out now; sometimes the terminals oxidize, and this can cure that.
If they don't, then switch a known good bulb from somewhere that it works to one of the problem holes; if it's a bulb, the light will be on. Otherwise, you've either got a whole lot of electrical problems with a bunch of systems (not uncommon on this powertrain), or possibly a printed circut problem. Most likely, that would mean a new (or at least another) cluster is needed.
Good luck.
There are ways to test this, and it usually comes up as a pretensioner that's opened up (common problem). If you got about a 3 ohm resistor, unplugged the pretensioner, and connected the resistor while holding the shorting tab back (not easy, will require help), turn on the key and let it prove out. The light will go out if it's the pretensioner. If it doesn't, then there's a problem with either the RCM or wiring.
In the shop, we have little plugs that we use that do this same thing I just explained, but can be done with just one person.
As for the dash lights on your other post, this cluster doesn't have a specific transmission light; however, the CEL and Trac. Control light should prove out, then either come or go off depending on whatever shape the system(s) are in. If they don't even prove out, then you have the question of if they've been on forever and just burned out, or if something else is amiss. The easiest way to check this out if to remove the cluster, and first, check the connectors (one's black, the other white) to the cluster. Make sure they're clicked into the cluster. Take them out and try them again, and see if they prove out now; sometimes the terminals oxidize, and this can cure that.
If they don't, then switch a known good bulb from somewhere that it works to one of the problem holes; if it's a bulb, the light will be on. Otherwise, you've either got a whole lot of electrical problems with a bunch of systems (not uncommon on this powertrain), or possibly a printed circut problem. Most likely, that would mean a new (or at least another) cluster is needed.
Good luck.
Thank you for your help. I pretty much guessed that there is an electrical problem in this car. I bought the car from a private dealership and it has turned out to be nothing but problems and a POS if you know what I mean. I'm not surprised that this car has uncommon electrical train problems, and to tell you the truth I am so over this vehicle that Im already in the process of saving for a down payment on a more reliable vehicle, so it may not even be worth fixing.
I do appreciate the help though, and I mainly wanted to get an opinion and see if its worth saving or just letting the car die (leaning way more towards letting it die). Whenever it comes to electrical, especially the unit, needing replacement, I say forget it.
Thanks for the reply.
I do appreciate the help though, and I mainly wanted to get an opinion and see if its worth saving or just letting the car die (leaning way more towards letting it die). Whenever it comes to electrical, especially the unit, needing replacement, I say forget it.
Thanks for the reply.
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