1997 Ford E250 Econoline. Problem started with the van not starting in park. I replaced the neutral safety switch, brake light switch and brake light bulbs.The situation kept getting worse. The van will not shift into park or reverse and will not start. I also tested the ignition system and battery. Disassembled the steering column and checked the shift cylinder, actuator, shift cable and replaced the ignition switch. I have tested everything recommended in a Ford repair manual and have several times adjusted the shift cable slack adjustment at the transmission. In other words I have checked, tested and adjusted everything from the steering column to the transmission with no luck. It seems to me that the position of the neutral safety switch and what is happening internally in the transmission is not in sync. HELP
I am living on a fixed income and cannot afford to put the van in a shop so if anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated.
By the way the transmission is a E40D.

 

Conditions , where you live permitting, apply the parking brake and disconnect the shift cable from the lever on the trans. Now move the lever through the different ranges and you should feel the gap and detent when you place that lever in the park position which will be at the extreme end of travel. If you have that much , I would now place the shift lever in the vehicle in the park position at "P". Now adjust what you need to do to line up the cable end with the hole in the lever on the trans. That should get you close to the right set-up . The final adjustment will be determined by whether the vehicle will start in only the park and neutral positions. If that doesn't get you in the ballpark there could be other problems,but let's try that first .

 

Hi hanky, ya I have done all of those things, no luck

 

You adjusted/aligned the shift range sensor scribe lines?

If its not shifting into Park or Reverse, as Hanky mentioned, I'd remove the shift cable at the trans and check for a full range movement. If it still won't shift into Park, next step would be to drop the pan and have a look. If the trans selector lever is 'forced' over it can bind the detent spring and bend its arm..

 

Hayapower, I have lined up the shift sensor scribe marks, several times. The shift arm at the transmission has full range movement. Like I said in my original post, I have adjusted, checked, replaced everything from the steering column shift lever down to the trans. At this point I think the problem is internal and you are the first one to point that out. Can you recommend a source for information on the internal shift assembly?

 

It is time to drop the pan and look inside at the rod the shift lever moves. When you move the shift lever on the side of the trans you should be able to see the rod slide against the parking pawn and placing it in the slot on the output shaft segments. It is spring loaded . I believe Hayapower pointed you in the right direction because if the positioning of the lever and shaft have been altered the internal indexing pin may have moved out of the slot and if that happens you wind up with a dead stick.

 

Gotcha Hanky, the two of you have been the only people to point me in the right direction. I have had a feeling that this might be the problem. The last time I backed out of the drive way which is on a slope it was very hard to get out of park, quite a thunk. Thanks!

 

The hardest part of that job is draining the pan when removing it. If you place a pail under one end (ft or rear) remove the I believe 13 bolts slowly so the pan tips and drains over the pail. The rest you won't have any problem seeing and then will be able to correct the problem.

 

My next question would be,,

You removed the shift cable from the transmission lever, and the shift lever indicated a full range of selections? If so, then the issue would almost have to be internal. The parking pawl is engaged/dis engaged with a cone shaped pin end that is driven off a small rod from the internal selector that also carries a pin that moves the spool valve. If you drop the pan, Look at the range selector cam/ detention spring and roller. If someone cranked on the nut on the outside lever without holding the lever rigid it can bend the detention spring and cause off set range selections. Generally, you could still sweep the column selector and 'find' a start point in either Park or Neutral though..

Like Hanky mention, loosen all the pan bolts and let it bleed.. Once it stops, remove all bolts but leave a few at the front and rear 4 corners. Now the pan is a little lighter and won't dribble as much down while removing the rest of the bolt. Back out the 2 rear bolts some, but not too far. Support and remove the 2 forward pan bolts and gently lower it against the 2 remaining rear support bolts tipping the pan. Once a good portion of the fluid drains the pan is much lighter and easier to raise back up and remove the 2 rear bolts and 'balance' the lowering on down..

 

Thinking about earlier posts,,

The reason I asked about the scribe alignments is that as long as alignment is 'correct' (and a known good/new sensor installed) at least the circuit there should be closed for Park/Neutral cranking and the van should start. If there was a bent detent or? it would or could make for odd trans-shift engagements and indications, but as long as you could rotate the range sensor enough and gain a correct scribe alignment it should have no bearing on conditions internal. That said, you would need to have an input to the range sensor from the ignition etc. as well as an output to the starter solenoid from a closed sensor circuit. The harness connectors at the range sensor are known for issues too like pushed out pins and corrosion and such.

As you stated, trouble getting into Park and,,

You should be able to crank in Neutral as well, as long as the sensor scribes out. Not sure if you have one issue, or multiple that are confusing the direction. At this point, I'd probably concentrate down at the transmission and range sensor connector. Look for a cycled ignition power distribution point at the connector. I can help you with the harness pinouts/colors if need be. If there, then a closed-completed cranking circuit check through the sensor. If good, then out to the starter solenoid.

If the range sensor easily aligns, meaning, more or so 'centered' in the sensors bolt slots should/would be a good internals indication, THEN, when the column shift lever is put into PARK, the cable at the trans should be pretty close to dropping right on in Park there. If not, then look backwards at the column control of the cable.. Would seem that weather or not the column lever can make a Park selection, if the lever was giggled or swept by/around Neutral if all the electrical was good it would hit a cranking point.. No matter what, when ignition cranked, there should be a source at the sensors connector. Alignments and hardware certainly needed, but with no cranking at all, I'd look for whats there first, then move forward or backward depending on what proves out