Puzzle
#61
Both doors and now there isn't any power to either door. Well the locks do still work, but both window motors are dead. No power going into the switch. Any idea where the relay is located? One costs about $15. I would replace it just to eliminate that as a possibility at this point.
#62
Not to discourage you, but lately a lot of "new" stuff is defective right out of the box.
Some say NEW stands for never ever worked. I have a question for you, and that is, if the relay is operated by the switch and the switch has no power going to it how can the relay be the problem? You may finally be on to something now that you are aware power isn't getting to the switch itself.
Some say NEW stands for never ever worked. I have a question for you, and that is, if the relay is operated by the switch and the switch has no power going to it how can the relay be the problem? You may finally be on to something now that you are aware power isn't getting to the switch itself.
#66
I have some 85 shop manuals, not sure what they'll cover. Been a very long time, but if memory serves, I thought most of the F's and such had aux. boxes that carried any optional relays. I'll try and remember to look this afternoon..
#68
There is one way to get to the bottom of the problem. It is a little work,but you can't keep taking the door panels off & on every time it stops working.
Take the door panel off to get to the wires going to the door window motor. Splice a piece of wire to each wire going to the motor. The piece of wire should be about 18 inches long so it can extend out the door panel when installed. you can crimp a butt connector to the extending ends to prevent them from touching anything. Now when the motor stops working you can check for power and ground to the motor without pulling the panel(s) off. You will either have power and ground there or you won't. If you have power there , it's time to stop fooling around and get another motor. If you don't have power and ground going to the motor, at least you know it could be the wiring to the switch or after the switch , but the motor has now been removed from the system as the problem, and,,, you confirmed this without getting into the door again. Sometimes you need to do things to make it possible to run checks at different points in the wiring and you might need to place another test point in the wiring so you don't need to tear things apart again.
I can share your frustration at this point, but it's time to stop guessing where the problem might be and start eliminating parts/areas working your way back to where power originates. I have had to use measures like this to pin down an intermittent problem and it has always worked for me. You can easily do the checks with an ordinary test light.
Take the door panel off to get to the wires going to the door window motor. Splice a piece of wire to each wire going to the motor. The piece of wire should be about 18 inches long so it can extend out the door panel when installed. you can crimp a butt connector to the extending ends to prevent them from touching anything. Now when the motor stops working you can check for power and ground to the motor without pulling the panel(s) off. You will either have power and ground there or you won't. If you have power there , it's time to stop fooling around and get another motor. If you don't have power and ground going to the motor, at least you know it could be the wiring to the switch or after the switch , but the motor has now been removed from the system as the problem, and,,, you confirmed this without getting into the door again. Sometimes you need to do things to make it possible to run checks at different points in the wiring and you might need to place another test point in the wiring so you don't need to tear things apart again.
I can share your frustration at this point, but it's time to stop guessing where the problem might be and start eliminating parts/areas working your way back to where power originates. I have had to use measures like this to pin down an intermittent problem and it has always worked for me. You can easily do the checks with an ordinary test light.