2000 Ford Explorer fan blower motor works only on high
#1
12-07-2012, 08:54 AM
2000 Ford Explorer fan blower motor works only on high
Sorry, I didn't know proper procedure
. My husband hates computers, so I'm doing this for him. As for our problem, my fan blower in our 2000 Explorer only works on high. My husband replaced the resistor and still not working. He's checked the fuses and relays. Hes not getting power to the resistor. The schematic for the relays under the dash by steering column are not in any manual for him to check out. He checked the power supply to switch-nothing. He works for Ford...and is so aggravated that the manuals are so pathetic. Any ideas? Now, afetr checking, he is getting power to the switch....
. My husband hates computers, so I'm doing this for him. As for our problem, my fan blower in our 2000 Explorer only works on high. My husband replaced the resistor and still not working. He's checked the fuses and relays. Hes not getting power to the resistor. The schematic for the relays under the dash by steering column are not in any manual for him to check out. He checked the power supply to switch-nothing. He works for Ford...and is so aggravated that the manuals are so pathetic. Any ideas? Now, afetr checking, he is getting power to the switch....
Last edited by ejanik; 12-07-2012 at 09:07 AM.
#2
12-07-2012, 09:30 AM
Have a look at this link and note the number 2 relay.
2000 Ford Explorer Under The Hood Fuse Box Diagram » Auto Fuse Box Diagram
When you are checking power at the blower motor resister what process are you using. There should be only one wire that provides 12 volt power. The others are used to activate (for lack of better word) the resisting coils that lower the voltage to the motor causing slower movement.
2000 Ford Explorer Under The Hood Fuse Box Diagram » Auto Fuse Box Diagram
When you are checking power at the blower motor resister what process are you using. There should be only one wire that provides 12 volt power. The others are used to activate (for lack of better word) the resisting coils that lower the voltage to the motor causing slower movement.
#3
12-07-2012, 09:46 AM
I am not sure how it is done but there is a way to link back to your previous post so those viewing this one know what has been suggested. I am sure someone will help in that regard. You will find very knowledgeable people here; they will have you up and running in no time.
#5
12-07-2012, 11:22 AM
Going to help best I can until someone comes in. I am much better doing than I am explaining so I hope i don't confuse anyone LOL.
Do you have a digital multi-meter (DVOM)? The testing process does not take long to perform but you need a multi-meter you can set to 10a to perform it (or the first test I would perform).
I do not have access to the kind of information many of these guys have anymore so wire colors are going to be tricky, but the ground wire to the blower motor should be black or have a black stripe (post back if not).
Look at the plug going into the blower motor, if you can see the connector where the wire goes into the back of it then you will use your probes there (pointed end of the multi-meter wires). If not, you will need to make a couple short jumper wires using spade type connectors that will plug into the connector itself. They don’t need to be very long, just long enough to be comfortable, but they cannot touch each other; I add an alligator clip to the other end to make life a little easier holding the probes. I do not recommend piercing the wire (sticking the probe through the wire).
On the multi-meter there are 3 places for your probe wires to plug in, one is negative, used for the black wire, and the other two are positive. The positive you want to use for this test will say 10a max and usually says “un-fused”.
If you are using the jumper wires unplug the motor and connect the jumper wires to the plug, not to the motor, noting which is on the negative (using 2 colors would be beneficial). Connect the negative lead to the negative jumper and positive to positive. If you can see the connections, one of you will hold the probes respectively. Do not let them touch each other.
Set the multi-meter to 10a DC, turn key to on and, one setting at a time, record the readings as the fan speed is increased at the switch.
Post back you readings.
Do you have a digital multi-meter (DVOM)? The testing process does not take long to perform but you need a multi-meter you can set to 10a to perform it (or the first test I would perform).
I do not have access to the kind of information many of these guys have anymore so wire colors are going to be tricky, but the ground wire to the blower motor should be black or have a black stripe (post back if not).
Look at the plug going into the blower motor, if you can see the connector where the wire goes into the back of it then you will use your probes there (pointed end of the multi-meter wires). If not, you will need to make a couple short jumper wires using spade type connectors that will plug into the connector itself. They don’t need to be very long, just long enough to be comfortable, but they cannot touch each other; I add an alligator clip to the other end to make life a little easier holding the probes. I do not recommend piercing the wire (sticking the probe through the wire).
On the multi-meter there are 3 places for your probe wires to plug in, one is negative, used for the black wire, and the other two are positive. The positive you want to use for this test will say 10a max and usually says “un-fused”.
If you are using the jumper wires unplug the motor and connect the jumper wires to the plug, not to the motor, noting which is on the negative (using 2 colors would be beneficial). Connect the negative lead to the negative jumper and positive to positive. If you can see the connections, one of you will hold the probes respectively. Do not let them touch each other.
Set the multi-meter to 10a DC, turn key to on and, one setting at a time, record the readings as the fan speed is increased at the switch.
Post back you readings.
Last edited by ModestRick; 12-07-2012 at 11:38 AM.
#6
12-07-2012, 11:49 AM
Perhaps I might be able to make a worthwhile suggestion .
If you are getting action at the blower motor in only the high speed position it would suggest power is there and going through the switch, but the switch itself could could have a problem in the lower speed positions and Modestrick's suggestion should verify if you are getting any flow through the switch lower speed positions. Most of the time it is the blower motor resistor that has opened and will not pass any current to the motor. Without getting overly involved, if the blower switch doesn't have any burned or melted contacts at the back of the switch I would suggest to just change the resistor . Since you already have checked there, you know where it is located and can see it is easily replaced.
I just read your other post and it stated the resistor was replacedwith no difference in function. In that case I would do two other things . Check the owner's manual to see if it shows a low speed blower relay.
If no such relay is listed then the only other option is to trace the wire from the resistor body to the motor itself.
If you are getting action at the blower motor in only the high speed position it would suggest power is there and going through the switch, but the switch itself could could have a problem in the lower speed positions and Modestrick's suggestion should verify if you are getting any flow through the switch lower speed positions. Most of the time it is the blower motor resistor that has opened and will not pass any current to the motor. Without getting overly involved, if the blower switch doesn't have any burned or melted contacts at the back of the switch I would suggest to just change the resistor . Since you already have checked there, you know where it is located and can see it is easily replaced.
I just read your other post and it stated the resistor was replacedwith no difference in function. In that case I would do two other things . Check the owner's manual to see if it shows a low speed blower relay.
If no such relay is listed then the only other option is to trace the wire from the resistor body to the motor itself.
Last edited by hanky; 12-07-2012 at 12:07 PM. Reason: addl info
#7
12-07-2012, 12:22 PM
Thank you for joining in hanky, I am sure her situation will be resolved in no time now.
In a previous posting the resistor was replaced on this blower motor and I suggested there to look for burnt or melted contacts, but I don’t know how to link that discussion. Only working from memory. What I am suggesting here (be it right or wrong LOL) is to work backward from the problem.
In a previous posting the resistor was replaced on this blower motor and I suggested there to look for burnt or melted contacts, but I don’t know how to link that discussion. Only working from memory. What I am suggesting here (be it right or wrong LOL) is to work backward from the problem.
#8
12-07-2012, 12:38 PM
If I remember correctly the thread I am referring to was quite old and concluded so I suggested ejanik start a new one since it provided no relief. Maybe I stuck my nose where it shouldn’t have been. (**wipes egg from face and humbly walks toward the corner)
#9
12-07-2012, 02:08 PM
Hey ModestRick,
If that's the case , move over. WE have lots of company!
As you have noticed, it's not exactly easy to offer sure shot solutions when we are in one place and the problem area is someplace else. In addition to that there are so many variations in the way the same models and the same year are built. We do the best we can and enjoy doing it. On top of that we don't always know the capability of the person at the other end.
I hope we can solve the problem ejanik has. If I understand the past posts he had hi-speed in all switch positions. Did I understand that correctly? Could he have received the wrong resistor body?
If that's the case , move over. WE have lots of company!
As you have noticed, it's not exactly easy to offer sure shot solutions when we are in one place and the problem area is someplace else. In addition to that there are so many variations in the way the same models and the same year are built. We do the best we can and enjoy doing it. On top of that we don't always know the capability of the person at the other end.
I hope we can solve the problem ejanik has. If I understand the past posts he had hi-speed in all switch positions. Did I understand that correctly? Could he have received the wrong resistor body?
#10
12-07-2012, 02:11 PM
Well, 6 hours of reading and testing, my husband finally got it working. It happened to be the switch box that goes into the resistor. As he was wigglin the wires around, the power would click on and off, so he is going to the junkyard and getting a new box. Thank you so much for all your advice and help. He does too!