I have a 1997 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the stock JBL stereo system. The system has a total of 5 speakers - front doors (2), rear doors (2), and then the rear quarterpanel speaker (subwoofer I believe). The rear speaker/subwoofer blew, so I am looking to replace. Would like to keep the same setup, so I just need a new speaker to throw in there. I have no idea about the power rating of the stock amplifier, so what sub should I be looking at? I don't want to blow more money than I need to on an sub with an excessive power rating, but at the same time, I dont want to buy a piece of crap that I will have to replace a few months down the road. Any suggestions?

 

Maybe you can find what your looking for here:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800b9ff6.jsp

 

Eh, that still doesn't completely get it. I understand how to remove it (have actually already done because it sounded so bad), so I am really looking for more specs on that rear speaker itself, or even on the rear amp. Basically, anywhere I have been able to find lists the explorer as only having 4 speakers. Nobody lists that 5th speaker as even being in the car. I am thinking it is just a basic 6.5" sub, so I ordered a cheap one off of ebay today. Will try that out and hopefully it works. If not, it was only $20 anyways...

 

From the repair literature I have.

The AE170DB Subwoofer is a 70 Watt mono-bass
amplifier which features distortion limiting capability.
Designed to attain 38dB of gain, the rated power
output is supplied to a single 4 Ohm load, with a
signal output of 0.21V RMS. The crossover is
designed to attenuate signal output 3dB at 600Hz.
Total Harmonic Distortion (T.H.D.) figures of less than
0.1% are typical across the bandwidth of the amplifier.

Max watts are 130 but that is at full failure. I have two of these driving a dual voice coil 200w 12" sealed sub(out of the MACH 100 Mustang) in my Focus(work rig 39 MPG) and it thumps.

The speaker can be replaced with any of the same size. The amps of your era need to be remanned, to last longer. If the speaker can move freely without rubbing inside the coil it is probably OK and the amp is acting up. I've seen more dead amps than speakers.

 

MAN !!!!!! Iam glad my ole 8 track still works [sm=bounceybounce.gif]

 

T/Ser, can you explain the whole dB thing, its been a long times sence my electronic training. Its something about exponets or factures of 10, are something

 

[8D] I have the same problem with the factory rear speaker,, and the same results with the searches.. My brother in law has the same problem with his excursion also.. I went to a pro sound shop though and got the info you need.. the speaker is called a Mid Bass Driver, not just a sub woofer as we would all assume. The size is 6" if i recall, and you can replace with most any speaker that meets those requirements, as they will all be after market and be made to handle more power than the factory ones did. The average though is around 130 watts. You will also have to purchase them in pairs of two [:@] and my best advice for the other is EBAY,, where you may be able to clear most of the cost for the two if your lucky,lol....

 

The same happened to mine. I replaced my sub with a JL Audio 6WO-4 . I had also considered the EU-700 from Elemental Designs. It is a 6.5" driver.

 

I have a 97 Limited Edition, my son blew the rear sub and I replaced it with a boxed sub. It worked for about 2 days. As I was driving it home I noticed the bass starting to fade and a strong electrical burning smell, now nothing works in the rear and I have no bass tone coming from the other 4. I think I fryed the amp? Question: can I just change out the Amp or do I have to replace the entire autio system?

 

how can i take the rear subwoofer out