You should feel the relay click every time you turn the key on.
There are 2 things you need to confirm, the 1st is the ground for the relay coil . It is the black.white wire at the relay plug. The 2nd thing you need to confirm is that you are getting power at the relay Red/LtGrn wire. If both of those check out good the relay is questionable. If you don't get those results let me know, we will continue if necessary.

 

Ok Hanky, here is what I did. I ran a test on the relay circuit using the test procedures form EasyAutoDiagnostics.com. There are 4 tests.
1.checks for power at the low current circuit, We PASSED this test

2. checks for power at the High current circuit, We also Passed this one

3.Testing the EEC power relay voltage output. We FAILED this one.

4
.Checks the EEC relays ground circuit. We Passed this one.

So, if I understand this result, it means that the relay is bad? only problem is, the Relay is new! Can there be something wrong somewhere else, or did I get a bad new relay. Wow. so where do I go from here? Thanks, Mike.

 

In response to #1 if they mean by "low current circuit" the circuit that energizes the relay, OK
This is what you can try
Remove the EEC relay
On the relay plug should be a Yellow wire and Red wire.
Jump those 2 and you should hear the fuel pump run for the usual 2 seconds.
Then with the jumper still in place start the vehicle. If it starts , the relay is defective and all you did was by-pass it. GO !!

 

Hanky, It worked!! you are a flippin Genius! I am sure that it would have been simple to you, but not to a novice like me! I am a stone mason by trade and I am trying to help out my son. This is his first truck and we have learned a lot! Thank you again so much!!

 

The pleasure Sir was all mine.
We all get lucky sometime and this time it was my turn.

 

OMG hanky I'm back like a bad penny;! we had fuel pump and spark with the jumper wire, so I replaced the new Relay with another one, and ges what, No spark and no fuel pump. It only works when I jumper wire it like you told me. Can something be killing the relays??

 

What did you use to check for power?
Where are you getting the relays?
Not all relays are the same could you have the wrong one?

The tests you did indicate the right conditions are present for the relay to work. There may be one exception.
I will have one more thing for you to check and it will require jumping one other component, but according to the tests you did and the results you obtained all seems to indicate a problem with the relays.

What are the numbers on the under side of those relays?

 

I used my analog multimeter to check for power, and the relays are coming from Napa. I suppose the relay may be wrong, but I ordered it for my year of vehicle, and it looks just like the original that I took out, with the exception of its color. as far as numbers under the relay go, do you mean inside where the contacts are? if so, the numbers are 1,2, which are on the small connectors, and 3,4 which are on the large ones. hope thats right.

 

The #1 terminal should go to the blk/white wire
#2 should be the red/lt grn wire
#3 should be yellow wire
#4 should be the red wire.
Some vehicles used the system with the numbers shown on your relays.
Some others used a different system.
I would confirm that the correct color wires go to the correct number terminals.
The # 1&2 terminals have slightly smaller prongs on the relay. Those two terminals are the ones that energize the relay when the key is turned on.
Let me know what you find there.

 

prongs are as described, the difference is, in my example, #3 is red not yello and #4 is the yello one.