Does anyone have any expierence with change the timing chain case seal on a 2001 Taurus with the 3.0L single overhead cam? From what I've read, I'm better off removing the motor from the car to change it out. Chilton says the oil pan has to come off? Really? Anyone have a solution to my drippy oil seal, I'm open to suggestions.

 

Ford's manual states to remove the oil pan to remove the timing chain cover. If you need info for free, go to AutoZone | Auto Parts & Accessories | Repair Guides & More and create a free account and search the repair section for instructions. You should be able to replace it with engine in the car. Just time consuming. Good luck

 

Thanks way2old, I got my info from the Chilton book, and you are correct. It simply amazes me that I have to remove the exhaust "Y" pipe, (thats original with 151k on it) which you know isn't going to be easy. Then the oil pan and gasket, just to fix a drip in the timing chain case. Who thought of this design? What's next, removing the the tail light assembly to replace the headlight bulb? I'm frustrated, but thanks for the reply!

 

I believe it is really stupid the way cars were done at the factory and such. Just give it some time and they just might start doing that making you have to remove tail light assy. to replace headlight bulb. any thing to make money!!!!!!

 

You "might" get by with just dropping the oil pan down and leaving the exhaust in place. The oil [pan should just have a couple of bolts going into the timing cover. It should have a formed silicone gasket that can be reused. I might try that before dropping the pan completely. I don't know if it will work or not, but may be worth a try. Good luck.

 

Well, I've started the job and I'm doing it according to the Chilton Book. I'm dropping the "Y" pipe, (which was not fun getting the studs apart) dropping the oil pan, and with 151k miles, I'm changing the timing chain which should have been done at 100k, and replacing the water pump as well. I'm this far into it, do it now, 'cause if I don't, I'll be doing it real soon. Gonna do it, I'm doin' it right! While it was in the air I did front hubs, outer tie rod ends, and lower ball joints on both sides. I can only imagine what the dealer would have charged, all the parts were less than $300 and 3 days work, make that 3 &1/2 days, still gotta do the valve cover gaskets, and she'll be tight as a drum. Thanks for the responses, after the front end alignment, I'll tell ya how I did!

 

have fun with that ford fanatic and do feep us posted

 

Well, It's all done! Water pump, timing chain, crankshaft seal, oil pan, exhaust, valve covers, and the plenum. Not a leak in the bunch! The only thing that really, and I mean really needs to be paid attention to is the CKG sensor. A.K.A. the crankshaft positioning sensor. put it all back together, started the motor, and she ran rough! Now I started to second guess my work. Ran like the timing was way off. Did I put the chain back on right? No distributor to change the timing, what could throw it off so much? That CKG, it's located next to the harmonic balance, and after changing the chain it changed the timing. there isn't much adjustment to it. It only slides back and forth about an 1/8". Set it dead center, and it runs great! Like a new car, more power, no knocking, no hesitation, hit the key and starts right up and best of all...... NO LEAKS! De-Greased the motor and now she looks like something. With a little luck, I'll get another 150k out of her. Thanks for the support guys, and question feel free to ask!

 

Thanks for the updates. Sure sounds like you did the job correctly. Have a cold one on me. (_)3