overheating
 

i have a focus 1.8 diesel 2003 and it is overheating. i have changed the thermostat and still no joy.the water is circulating around properly. is there a sensor on the engine that detects the heat so the fans kick in? i have tried to switch the aircon on and the fans dont kick in, what is the problem? the fans come on when the engine is hot but the it stills overheats.

How do you know it is over heating? Lights, gage, loss of coolant? Bad gage?

Such a tiny diesel, 1.8 L. Is it a 'stone'? Can't get out of it's own way?
About the size of a boat motor down in a sailboat bilge.
Ford probably runs these things hot for emission reasons. Fitted with a turbo? That will make it perform for sure. Also heat up. Waste gate working?

Anyway as they said about my XJ-12C Jaguar, ANY temp is fine as long as you do not loose coolant. Many times I have pegged the gage when sitting in traffic on Edens Expressway in Chicago. It gets so hot under the bonnet a box and cooling fan sits around the battery and the power steering pump is fitted with a radiator. And that's with an iron block and aluminum heads with wet sleeves.

Find out what the Ford coolant temperature should be. Might be 160~180 deg. F.
Check V.W.'s designed diesel coolant temperature too. Probably the same.

Check the temp. See what it is. Put a long stem dial thermometer right into the coolant with the engine running...Pull the rad cap and insert. Watch it for 20 minutes. After it's normal or heading toward hot. Take a reading.
You may not have a problem.

Bare in mind that on the water jacket side it's 160~180 deg. F. but 1/4 inch away on the other side of the jacket it's 2,300 deg. combustion temperature. If the water goes past too fast it will not pick-up much heat. Too slow and it's saturated steam. Sits and boils it becomes super heated steam. With the cap off this won't happen, I was just pulling your leg.


Armed with knowledge you will be able to determine if you are within the designed coolant temperature.

The fan on/off temperature switches can be jumped through to make them turn on and pull air through the rad and fins. Fins clean and tight? Watching your thermometer you may note a difference. Ignition timing in a gas engine makes a temperature difference. Can't say about a diesel's timing.


You say you "the water is circulating around properly". So when you look down the radiator neck you see coolant moving around and the heater core is delivering hot air into the cabin. Pull off a heater hose cold and hold it up as high as you can. Start the engine. Does the coolant dribble out, rush out, gush out, or just barely trickles down your arm? We are looking for flow when cold. Or starting to get warm when the thermostat opens up. Weep hole on the thermostat mounting flange up?


And last. I use a product called Wetter-Water in my 82 year old Ford Model 'A'. The long stem dial thermometer says 15 deg F. cooler with it then without it.

BTW, how well does this diesel run? Injector pump injecting the right amount of fuel?

skip.

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i know its overheating by the gauge and the engine shuts down when the temp is to high,thanks for your response skip. i have had the pipes off and found one of the smaller pipes from the rad to the reservoir blocked so i have unblocked it. will see tomorrow if that is the problem.
there is no heat in the cabin .........

Leave the whole system intact and power through everything with a garden hose with a necked down nozzle hooked up to a hose and blowing into any hose you can find and out a hose or rad cap opening at building pressure. Flow for 45 minutes.

Are you sure that no or dimmished coolant flow through the core is the problem?
Try this.

Find the coolant hose going into and coming out of the heater core.
Have the engine up to normal temp.
Heater fan on high, maximuim temp dialed up.
Blower open to fresh air. Not recirculated.
Grab hold of both hoses as close as you can get to the core.
Or use two contact therometers.
It won't be very close but I'm afraid you'll have to muddle on.
Is there a notible temperature difference? Even a little temp difference?
Hot going in, cooler coming out?
Yes? O.K. The core is transferring coolant through it.
But no heat? The heated air is not ducted into the cabin.
No? Core is not transfering because the coolant is not transversing thru the core...
Or air is not ducting/blowing through the core.

Clean the core? Why not the whole system? Why would the core be plugged? I'm coming up on 300,000 with factory coolant still on board. No plug.

Try this for a few thousand miles with antifreeze if your in cold weather.

skip.

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Reading that vinegar thing. anyone tried it yet, if so does it really works on your ride. Just curious about it :D

Worked on my 1930 Ford Model 'A' like a champ. The key to all this vinegar washing is a really good 45 minute water flush with the garden hose. Open the bottom cock and trickle the hose water in as fast as it runs out while the engine is idling. The 'brown' comes out till it's clear.

I then mixed up a 50/50 batch of antifreeze, a water pump lube, Wetter Water, and Reverse Osmosis water for the 83 year old non-pressurized copper radiator and cooling system.

Should note that the system holds 3 gallons and is allowed to pee out what it does not use. Which is about one to two quarts. It seeks it's own level.

"If you can't cool it with 2-1/2 gallons your not going to cool it with 3 gallons.".

skip.

Great tip skip. never experienced overheating yet. Once i experience it will try your tip. thanks again :)

Stream for 30-38 minutes. Leave the entire framework whole and control through everything with an arrangement hose with a necked down spout caught to a hose and blowing into any hose you can find and out a hose or rad top opening at manufacturing force.

fan shroud
 

Hello,

Does anyone know what fan shroud will work on a '67 country sedan? Will a galaxie 500 work?

Thanks

The main reasons for overheating are coolant level is low, leak in the engine cooling system, thermostat is bad, water pump is failing, radiator cooling fan is not working, blown head gasket but as you said you changed the thermostat etc so now you must have to take your car to an expert. you should visit to a good auto repair shop. I suggest you R & R Certified Tire And Auto LLC, they are really helpful. R & R Certified Tire And Auto LLC also offers a wide range of auto repair services including Tires change, breaks, shocks, alignment, suspension, ac service etc.