i can't find a book on the 1966 galaxie to get all the torque specs for the 352 4b v8 motor, i need the valve adjustment torques. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!

 

First off - torqueing rocker arm nuts is for stupid people. Ford used torqued down rocker arms on so many of their engines and they were all the annoyance they could be. They rap, make noise and cannot be adjusted well or cheaply. At any rate your rocker arm shaft (I assume your rockers are shaft mounted) gets torqued to 40 to 45 ft.-lbs and requires careful steps to properly assemble including tightening the bolts in sequence two turns at a time until it contacts the cylinder head. Allow a few minutes leak-down time after torqueing. Check valve clearance - at this point I'd need to know if you have mechanical or hydraulic lifters.

 

yea we have a knock on the driver's side toward the driver and the inside of the valve cover was covered in burned oil so we replaced all the lifters and gaskets while we were at it and the knock is still there and it's not loud so we are hinking from what you said it may be the rod? oh and it's hydraulic lifters. Thank you for your help! we're kinda flying blind... we learned that all of the big blocks had 352 written on them so we aren't even sure what the engine is unless we measure the stroke.

 

A quick way to identify your block is by the manufactures casting on the lower part of the block.You may want to check with Ford High Performance. Email me back and i'll try to get it for you.James

 

Definitely - block casting number is the place to start. A knock and a valve clatter are two different and distinct sounds, really. You can check that you are getting proper valve lift right at the valve stem to skip the fancy stuff. If you're close it should adjust out. If not it could be a worse problem. It could be a valve shaft/rod but its unlikely. A knock can be a lot of things - a spark plug fouling (dirt in its tip/contact area) or blown off, a bent valve (look for one not operating properly, a worn or loose piston head and/or rod assembly, and the list goes on into the lesser known deals. Using Motorcraft 10W40 oil and and clean oil filter will sometimes help. Off brands of oil I've seen fail and take the engine right along. Having hydraulic lifters is an indication of less standard valve train noise in the 'ideal' running engine - so less should be attributed to the valves unless they are very misadjusted. Valve arrangement should be E-I-E-I-I-E-I-E from front to rear on both cylinder banks. Basic valve checking with these is to disconnect the coil or ground the coil wire and check each valve when fully released by cranking the engine (remote starter or by hand) and checking for loose valves by looking for looseness between the valve tip and rocker arm end when the rocker is released off of the valve as far as it goes. If there is too much gap at the valve tip you will have noise. If not you may want a compression test on the drivers cylinder bank to check for a crack in the block,cylinder head or piston head unless you had the heads off and had a good stare at those parts beforehand. Valve lash with the hydraulics (I don't believe they have adjuster nuts?) is adjusted with pushrod lengths. If you have an open valve tip - a .060 longer pushrod may compensate. If you're getting technical and don't want too much lift - Comp Cams will make custom length sets (but you have to sh** around a little to get the order in).