Valve Adjust no start
I have a 1963 Falcon with the 260 V-8. I just finished adjusting the valves and now I cant get it to fire up. I have a spark. I also just put on a different carburetor and it seems like it may be pumping a lot of fuel. I am planning on pulling and rebuilding the carburetor again but I wanted to ask if it is possible that I did something with the valve adjustment that would keep it from firing?
YES, very possible.
If the valves are adjusted too tight, that will keep the valves open resulting in , NO VACUUM and very little compression.
If they are hydraulic lifters, you adjust the valves one way. If not hydraulic lifters ,they do not get adjusted the same way.
Where did you get the carb rebuild kit ? The adjustments during a rebuild are VERY important to follow the sequence they give in the rebuild kit.
Once you get the engine started, you do the fine tuning , like idle speed and mixture. Hope you replaced the needle and seat and adjusted the float level PRECISELY..
If I remember correctly, they had a manual choke..
If the valves are adjusted too tight, that will keep the valves open resulting in , NO VACUUM and very little compression.
If they are hydraulic lifters, you adjust the valves one way. If not hydraulic lifters ,they do not get adjusted the same way.
Where did you get the carb rebuild kit ? The adjustments during a rebuild are VERY important to follow the sequence they give in the rebuild kit.
Once you get the engine started, you do the fine tuning , like idle speed and mixture. Hope you replaced the needle and seat and adjusted the float level PRECISELY..
If I remember correctly, they had a manual choke..
Last edited by hanky; Jul 19, 2025 at 05:59 PM.
Thanks for the reply. I have tried 2 different carbs and even starting fluid with no results. I do have a spark. If i hook up a vacuum guage and crank it over, the needle doesnt move? I may go back and try to redo the valve adjustment. The procedure that I used was putting the #1 piston at TDC, tightening the rocker bolt until the rod stops spinning and then giving it 3/4 turn preload. Then move the crank 90 degrees and move on to the next cylinder in the firing order (#4). I do that until i have done all cylinders and 2 full crank rotations. Do you have any suggestions on redoing the valves. I am leaning towards the valves becuase i put the old carb back on ( previously ran before valve job) and it didnt even fire. I also remove a plug and cranked it over and had air blow from the hole.
Can you fill in some info ?
What brought you to the conclusion the valves needed adjustment ?
The more things you become involved in,the more complicated this diagnosis becomes.
What caused you to conclude the carb needed rebuilding ?
When you crank it over that "compression" goes out the easiest place, the open spark plug hole. If the spark plug is in place and the valves can't close ,it will go out the intake or exhaust system. You seemed to adjust them as if the engine has hydraulic lifters, does it, I don't know.
If it does not,,go back and get the cyl up to where both valves are closed and change the valve adjustment to approx .010 -.014 in. you can do the final adj after you get it warmed up.
You may be seeing excess fuel because the fuel is blowing back through the open intake valves,.
How many barrels does the carb have? This goes back quite a way and info may or may not be available..
Something you may not be aware. The old needle and seat for the float in the carb was not designed for unleaded fuel and unleaded fuel will cause the material in the needle if not all metal to swell and cause all sorts of problems.
What brought you to the conclusion the valves needed adjustment ?
The more things you become involved in,the more complicated this diagnosis becomes.
What caused you to conclude the carb needed rebuilding ?
When you crank it over that "compression" goes out the easiest place, the open spark plug hole. If the spark plug is in place and the valves can't close ,it will go out the intake or exhaust system. You seemed to adjust them as if the engine has hydraulic lifters, does it, I don't know.
If it does not,,go back and get the cyl up to where both valves are closed and change the valve adjustment to approx .010 -.014 in. you can do the final adj after you get it warmed up.
You may be seeing excess fuel because the fuel is blowing back through the open intake valves,.
How many barrels does the carb have? This goes back quite a way and info may or may not be available..
Something you may not be aware. The old needle and seat for the float in the carb was not designed for unleaded fuel and unleaded fuel will cause the material in the needle if not all metal to swell and cause all sorts of problems.
I was getting quite a bit of valve noise when at idle, that was the reason for doing a valve adjustment. It is a long story with the carb. My Dad bought the car new in 1963 and when he passed away I had the car shipped to me. It wasnt running very well at all so I pulled the carb and rebuilt it and the car ran well. The only exception was when you accelerate quickly, then it would stall. The carb is a 2bbl 2150 knockoff from Amazon. I then find an original 2100 Autolite and rebuild it and the car runs but there is a vacuum leak at both side of the throttle shaft. I reamed and installed new bushings but it still leaked so I assume it is the shaft. I then cleaned and reinstalled the Amazon carb after I did the valve adjustment. I am not sure if I have solid or hydraulic lifters. I read that all 63 Falcons with the exception of high performance, had hydraulic.
This morning I removed the valve covers and redid the adjustment. I loosened them all the way and the tightened them until the rod stopped moving up and down, then went 1/2 turn more. It fired right up. It is leaking oil pretty bad at the drivers valve cover gasket but I can work on that. I bought the new rubber gaskets but I may go by the cork ones. Thank You Hanky for all of the help.
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