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missing torque values
About to change out the intake manifold on this '11 crown vic and I don't have any torque values. Should've got the FSM when I got her back in May. Anybody happen to have access to this info? The bolts involved would be for the throttle body frame assembly, fuel rail, thermostat housing and manifold bolts.
Also I've been told that while I've got everything off to check some kind of hose or connection that runs under the manifold. What's this piece possibly called? I'd rather have the part on hand when I get going on this. |
The tube is the coolant bypass. I sent all the engine spec/data to your email... |
Got that thanks.
I think my setup is a little different than the engines in the youtube videos I've been watching. I don't have the throttle cables and ports on either side of the aluminum part of the manifold.. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...bba3e89a48.jpg |
To my surprise the manifold I unboxed didn't have embedded gaskets like I'd seen in all the videos. Mine came looking like this..
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2305bf1103.jpg I assume this would be the version that requires a separate gasket. Unless there's better advice I'll prob just go with a Felpro. Actually, should I just return this one and get the embedded gasket version. Someone mentioned the seal on that one would probably never go bad. |
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The big tube coming off the back of my EGR valve is mucho rusty so instead of making the separation there the plan is to remove the 2 (also very rusty) bolts holding the valve to the throttle body. Does the EGR valve gasket need to be replaced when the valve is separated from the throttle body or is reusing the old one ok? |
Generally their a carbon composite material, sometimes they’ll stick to either surface/s, but if it separates and is intact, I’d have no problem reusing it.. |
Feels like I'm always making baby steps here but I guess that's the way it is when you're learning a new vehicle. After no small effort of getting everything over to my buddy's heated garage for the job I take everything off back to the 15mm crash bracket bolt, the one you can't see, and it just wouldn't budge. Used both a swivel head and wrench ratchet. Seems like I was able to get a good hold both times but when I went to twist the heads acted like they might've been rounded off. So I pulled out and put everything the f back together. Talked to a mechanic close by who will work on just the bolt for me so hopefully it won't end up costing too much. Called one of the mechanics who used to work on this vehicle when it was part of a fleet and he was trying to convince me to let him do the entire manifold job because there was a process to burping the engine coolant that used a special vacuum tool. He said if the burping isn't done right that the engine will have hot spots. Is this true? I've got a hand powered vac tool if that's what he's talking about. Only place I could imagine applying vacuum would be at the reservoir cap. Could buy a second cheap cap and drill/adapt it to take a vacuum tube. |
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