92 e250 5.8 where is the pcm power relay
 

Please help! I cannot find the EEC, PCM power relay. I have a 92 e250 5.8
I have looked behind the kick panels, under the dash and hood. Is it one of the three gray relays in the "fuse distribution box?"

Hello James and welcome.
The relay you seek is called an EEC relay and is usually located on the passenger side under the hood probably just behind the battery hanging on the firewall. There should also be a fuel pump relay there. Both relays are the same and can be interchanged if needed. If I may ask , what kind of problem does the vehicle have that you are looking for this relay?

Location EEC power relay
 

Thank You Hanky

I still cannot find the relay under the hood.
For the last month the van would only restart after sitting several hours. Now it will not start at all. The 30 amp fuse, number 7 under the dash was blown. Replaced it, still will not start. From what I can see the fuse is for the coil end of the relay, I hope.
Thank You
Jim

James from what I can now see the EEC relay is where you first suspected ,in the power distribution box. If you suspect the fuse is supplying the EEc relay try removing the relay and see what happens with the new fuse. From what I can see, the power dist box has 3 latches and if you can visualize the two latches on the bottom in your view, there should be one relay on the top left and three relays on the bottom left. Of the three on the bottom,the second one in, going from left to right, is the fuel pump relay and the relay to the right ,third, is the EEC relay. In looking at the diagram power comes from the ign sw to a fuse in the box then to the EEC relay. I can't believe they would use a 30 amp fuse to energize that relay. If you could tell me which way the cover latches are arranged on the power dist box I should be able to make the checks easier.

I have a Ford shop manual Powertrain Manual for the 1992 Ford econoline and am trying to make sure what you see under the hood of your vehicle is identical. That power dist box is supposed to be located in the same area as where the battery is located.

I also checked the net for pix , but they are wrong and different from year to year.
Also checked a 1994 Ford Powertrain Manual and it is different from the images shown in the 92 manual. Anything that blows a 30 amp fuse is a dead short and should not be too difficult to locate.

Thanks Again Hanky

Hanky, I'am taking the battery in to be charged. Will be back at the van in two hours and will check the orientation of the relays. Your manual for the 92 will help a lot.

Sincerely
Jim

James I'm trying to think of the next step for you to take. You don't by any chance have a copy of the owner's manual with that vehicle do you? If you did, it would tell which sections are protected by that fuse that was blown. And,,,, that may not even be the problem. I presume when you say the vehicle won't start , it cranks over , but will not start running. Is this correct? Do you have any carb/ choke cleaner available in a spray can ? If so, shoot a shot into the intake and see if the engine will start even for a few seconds. If it does, there is a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't there could be a spark problem. Have you checked for spark ?
When you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds?

Aloha Hanky

The battery is fully charged. When turned to start the fuel pump does not prime. Also, checked for spark with HEI, found none. With your help and using the Chilton's and Alldata's Electrical schematics I finally found the EEC power relay. I have checked the relay coils, they are good. The 30 amp fuse that blew was number seven, under the dash, used to power the EEC power relay coil. Replaced fuse and relay, the fuse is still good after several start attempts. When checked for voltage, the EEC and fuel pump relay show only 3 volts on the power side of the relay coil when turned to run or start. The EEC power relay does not show voltage on the "hot at all times" side of the relay. The fuel pump relay does show 12 volts on the power side of the relay.





I see on the Chilton's schematic that their is a power splice that takes the 12 volts that comes from the "hot in run or start" that goes to the coil of the EEC relay, also goes to the positive side of the ignition coil, I found no voltage in run or start at the coil.
Do you think it could be the ignition switch? My schematics do not elaborate on the ignition switch.
Thank you Hanky for the help.
Aloha. Jim

Thanks H

Do the relays you have show any numbers underneath ? If they show the following #s this is what you should have at the EEC relay;
#30 is power all the time direct from the battery + supply.
# 86 comes from the ign switch and supplies power to energize the relay
# 85 is the ground for the relay coil
# 87 is the output of the relay when energized and supplies power to the fuel pump relay coil and vehicle power which goes to the coil and other parts like injectors etc.
That direct connection from the battery wire that supplies "power at all times" to the EEC relay #30 also supplies power to the #30 term of the fuel pump relay. So the EEC relay energizes the fuel pump relay.
If any of the solenoids that are on the vehicle power line are shorted it will pull the vehicle power down to the entire system.
What you might try is to remove the fuel pump relay and see what you have on the output of the EEC relay. If normal 12 volts is there, there is a problem with the fuel pump system. If you still don't have the 12 volts at the output of the EEC relay with the fuel pump relay removed , then there is a problem in the vehicle power circuit.
It might be a good idea to remove the plug from the ECM and check for corrosion in the pins there. That should be located on the passenger side and has a 10 mm bolt holding the plug to the ECM.
Hope I was clear on the directions.

God Bless You Hanky

The instructions you left were excellent, thank you. We are just waking-up in hawaii. But, I will have the voltages for the pins you listed in less than a hour.

Sincerely
Jim

I will try to stay close by if you get a chance to keep us informed with your progress.
It is always a pleasure to work with someone that is willing to do what needs to be done in order to get the problem solved. It has been a while since I worked on those years and models, but they were tough, always gave good service and were not really that bad to work on. There are KOEO (key on engine off) and KOER (key on engine running) tests that can be done with an inexpensive tool and the nice part is the computer will run the dynamic tests automatically once you prepare the system to do it. It gave you the codes and you were able to go from there. It was one of Fords good ideas.

Hello

I have spent over an hour writing a response to your excellent instructions. Only thing it erased. I will re-write tomorrow ASAP.
I'am getting intermittent voltage readings at the EEC relay when is it moved around. Right now the van will not start. I'am getting good fuel pressure and volume. There is no spark with a HEI tester. I will start tomorrow morning testing the no spark. I will repost as soon as can with the results.
Aloha
Jim

Aloha Everyone

I want you to know I appreciate all the help. I typed on my I Phone for over an hour, both yesterday and this morning, both times I accidentally swiped the phone and like it disappeared? Here goes again. I'am going to use a chronology of events:
Have had van six months. From beginning it seemed like it was mode and a lot black gas rich smoke. Only now have I found the map sensor. The first I have done is send the computer out for remanufacture. It was showing 11 and was putting random useless codes. Before putting back in I followed their instructions, looked and found an bad egr solinoid, replaced it. I then cleaned all connections with the proper cleaner. Right now the computer puts out code 11, but, the first code seems to be a 7? I forgot to explain that the engine starting several months would not restart after warmed up for several hours. This is why I sent the computer out. This did not help the problem. It would seem to stay in limp mode withe black smoke. At the time, I was getting mixed readings for fuel and spark. Yesterday, I found when I wiggled the EEC relay the readings at pin 86 ( pos. for coil) I get a volttage reading of either 3 or 12 volts. With the key off I get .9mv at pin 86 fuel pump relay. The EEC readings are ok. Also found a blown 30 amp fuse number 7 under the dash fuse box. I see it feeds pin 86 of EEC relay, possible cause of blown fuse? Right now the engine will not start. The relays are showing correct voltage. I'am getting good fuel pressure and volume. Their no spark at the coil wire using a HEI. Their is 12 volts at the coil. What may have have been an issue, was sold a black instead of gray tfi or ICM module. I put in the black same time as computer rebuild. I have since replaced it with gray one, no help. I have the Chilton's manual, but, I think their spec's for testing the module have been misprinted. At this point it seems I should start here with voltage checks. Thank God or the internet. I don't think I left anything out. Any suggestions!
Aloha
J

I made some omissions on my last post. I left out that engine was in LIMP mode from the beginning. Also should have typed, ... When I wiggled the EEC relay, I showed 3, 12 volts and .9 mv at pin 86 of FUEL PUMP relay.
Aloha
Jim

This is what I would do.
First pull off the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. If it has any gasoline in it , it is defective and is pulling extra gas into the intake and does cause a rich mixture and black smoke from the exhaust. If no gas in the vacuum line , put it back on and move to the next check. By the way a code 11 tells us two things , the system uses a two digit code system and code 11 means that test passes.
Now , lets find out what is really happening. Take a jumper wire from the battery positive post and connect it to the terminal of the EEC relay that comes from the ign switch. You should hear the relay energize and also hear and feel the fuel pump relay energize when you provide a ground for the fuel pump relay coil.The ECM provides the ground for the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on. When you ground the ground terminal of the fuel pump relay coil you should hear the fuel pump run in the tank. All we are doing is providing direct paths for power and by passing the wiring to those relays.
If the computer gets no RPM signal from the dist the fuel relay will not say energized and spark will be absent. There is a pick-up coil in the dist that sends a signal to the ECM and that signal goes to the ign module which then controls the ground to the coil. The coil has a power terminal that gets its power from the EEC relay and the other coil terminal gets grounded when spark is to be produced. If you have 12 volts to the coil with the key on all that is needed now is the ground for the other side of the coil winding to induce the spark in the secondary winding of the coil. If you remove the coil wire from the center of the dist cap and place it 1/4 in away from a good ground you should get a spark out of that coil when you momentarily touch the terminal of the coil that would normally get a ground to create the spark. Boy, I hope I put this clearly enough that you can follow what I suggested. Sometimes a test light is better to use than a voltmeter because it puts more of a load on the connections and wiring than a voltmeter.

Aloha

Thanks for the tip on the test light. The engine still ,will not start. Now the engine shows spark at the plugs using a HEI. I also now have good fuel pressure and volume. With a screwdriver I can hear the injectors clicking, I haven't tested using a noid light, I will later today. I can now see how the bad connection for the EEC relay could have blown the 30 amp fuse, number 7 under the dash, and turned on and off the fuel pump relay. Now, after reading a post yesterday I'am starting to think the new plugs could be fouled from the rich gas mixture. I'am willing to run down to the parts store and buy new plugs and rent the noid test light. I can't seem to find if fouled plugs can be cleaned. Like to hear back from you guys and especially what you think of the fouled plug idea. By the way, will test and replace the MAP sensor as soon as this van moves. Can anyone give me an idea why I'am reading .9mv with the key off at pin 86 for the fuel pump relay. The reading for pin 86 for the EEC relay shows 0 volts with the key off. I have cleaned the fuse box several times. I guess the only thing to do is turn over the fuse box board and look for a short? Anyone seen this before?

Aloha
Jim

If you have good spark now and fuel pressure of 35-45 lbs other things aside the engine should start. You can dry out spark plugs and reinstall them . What you could also do is while the plugs are out and the fuel pump fuse removed , crank the engine over a few times to clear the flooded condition from the cylinders then reinstall the dry plugs and fuel pump fuse and the engine should start. I wouldn't be too concerned with the minor voltage readings you are getting at this time since terminal 85 is ground and 86 picks the relay coil. Did you find any gas in the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail?

Good morning

Again thanks for the advice. I replaced the fuel regulator, it was preventing the engine from revving up. I removed the vaccum line and found no fuel. I put in new plugs, turned it over and got a backfire and the battery then died. Took it in two days ago, I guess they didn't do a load test. I took out the distributer a couple days ago to check the pick-up and forgot to mark it. My Chilton's manual really was not much help in resetting the distributer. Will recharge the battery this morning and reset the distributer. As soon as anything happens I will repost. I will preform the procedure to turn off the fuel pump and dry out the cylinders.

Aloha
Jim

If you are not sure how to install the dist so it will start, let us/me know and it is a little lengthy, but we can post the procedure for you. The reason it backfired is most likely the dist is not installed correctly . While you have the plugs out would be a good time to recheck. To confirm the #1 piston is at the top of it's travel (on compression stroke) and timing pointer at TDC the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug wire on the dist cap. Is it?

Aloha Hanky

Back again. A hour ago my repost again vanished after tiny typing. I'am so sorry I didn't answer earlier, but, I was sicker than a dog and just started working on the timing today. I'am not sure, I followed the following procedure from the internet. Go to top of compression stroke, number 1, set timing at 10 degrees before top dead center and position the left side of the rotor approaching the number one spark distributer contact. I set the timing so the engine easily started and revved. The problem with the gas rich black smoke persists. After four start attempts the engine wouldn't re-start. Assuming the engine was flooded I took out the fuel pump relay to clear the air and instead the engine ran fine for about five seconds. I'am fairly convinced this was the cause for the previous no-starts after the engine was warmed-up. This was at the same time I blew the EEC fuse and again had a no-start situation. I must sound like a parts changer. For the black smoke issue I have replaced the EGR and EGR sensor, map sensor, coil, re-manufactured the EEC, wires, cap, rotor, plugs. I noticed today after disconnecting the battery and clearing the codes, the black smoke lessened. Tomorrow morning I'am going to drive the van ten miles for the computer to program. Maybe help? Hanky, my wife thinks you're a great person and says thank You very much. Will re-post tomorrow as soon as possible.
Sincerely
Jim

As you know, the black smoke is the result of an overfueled engine. Some of the causes could be, defective fuel pressure regulator, excessive fuel pump pressure, obstructed intake, leaking injectors to name a few. I'm glad you at least got it running where you could take it out and drive it some.
Thank your wife for the kind words. I wonder why I can't get my wife to think the same thing. She won't even allow me to work on our wheelbarrow. I guess I'm lucky she even talks to me, I suffer from a hearing problem which many guys acquire after years of being married, just kidding ! Let us know how you make out, thanks!

Aloha Hanky

I,am so sorry, it's taken this long to get back to you. But, I didn't want to post again until I had something happy to say. We'll, I do. Talk your wife into letting you go to the car auctions and buy $ 50.00 cars, and then park them all over the city. My crazy hobby for to many years. Things have changed! I'am now like you, happily retired. I'am also now, happily married, one and years. The problem, I let the cat out of the bag and told my wife Trinidad, about twice having twenty-two cars, because, they were soo nice. Well anyway hanky, things have not entirely changed, unless, I can slowly convince her to get her hands greasy.
I'am still in a cloud of black smoke. Hanky please help me again. I was in the Air Force, and been bragging
to my wife that I was above being a "parts changer." We'll, to keep things in perspective, I have changed every part with the exception of the IAC and PIP pick-up, etc. This is my guess. Before I stripped the threads of the fuel rail Schafer valve, last week, the new fuel pump and three new filters were showing the correct fuel pressures,
but, taking up to 20 - 30 seconds to build pressure. Many years ago I spent a. Long time diagnosing a similar problem - correct fuel pressure, inadequate fuel volume. In the thread I indicated blowing the 30 amp fuse to the EEC relay, which in turn supplies power to pin 86 of the fuel pump relay, which then supplies the power to the fuel pump. With a new fuse, I found only about 6 volts going through the fuel pump power circuit. The voltage is now correct, using electronic contact cleaner and repeatilly pushing the EEC relay tabs into their slots. I have a fuel rail Schroeder connecting valve coming in Monday. I will then use the "snap-test"- raceing the accellerator and checking to see if the new fuel pump can keep up with the changing pressure demands. I have trolled the internet " black smoke, ford 5.8" and I think I have heard it all.
But you know Hanky, you won a convert with my wife. She doesn't know computers, but, I told her this- you will hear on the internet the "voice"of kind and caring people, the"vast" majority of the time. Your'e a winner - thanks, I will keep you posted.
Aloha
Jim

I am just one of many folks on this forum that are willing to share some experience and help out a Ford owner with a vehicle problem.
Have you been able to confirm there is not any obstruction in the air intake system?
I have to go back and recheck your previous posts, but I don't remember if you did anything to check the oxygen sensor. They can lie to the computer telling it the mixture is lean and the computer will be trying to richen the mixture resulting in an over rich fuel condition. Now were are getting into the "nitty gritty" and looking for something more than the usual causes.

Hi Hanky

I think I'am on to the problem! I installed the new valve in the fuel rail and took key-on and engine on pressure readings. I found this: with key-on I had an initial pressure reading of zero lbs. With repeated key-on, the pressure will build up to under thirty lbs. With the engine running the reading is a little over thirty lbs. Taking the fuel regulator vacum line off the pressure will increase to forty lbs. The fuel pressure takes a dip when I rev. the engine and seems to take to long to recover. When I turn the engine off the fuel pressure drops fairly fast to twenty lbs. from there the pressure drop is more gradual.
I have replaced the in tank filters and the line filter and put in a Bosch fuel pump. I was pulling about six volts to the old and new fuel pump because the EEC contacts were corroded ,which resulted in the blowing of the 30 amp fuse in the fuel pump circuit. Do you think low voltage could cause the fuel pump to be damaged like this Is their a resistance reading for the pump. I was thinking, instead of blowing out all my fuel lines, if there is a fitting I can fit to the fuel disconnect lines to check fuel pressure to the fuel rail, in-line filter, etc. Thanks for your suggestions. I really checked for obstructions in the air intake. I was driven crazy once with a rag in a air intake. I have replaced the oxygen sensor.
I will keep you posted.
Aloha
Jim

Aloha

I forgot to add, I have a new fuel pressure regulator.
Thanks
Jim

Aloha

I forgot to add when I put in the fuel pump I only replaced the filter attached to the pump which is inside the fuel pump assembly. There was a second filter attached to the outside of the fuel pump assembly. I was not told about this filter and did not replace it. Last week I replaced it, no difference. The outside filter for the assembly has an outside screen and a fiberous inner core. The inner core was badly broken up, could it be the filter was exposed to the air when taken outside of gas tank the first time and subsequently clogged up the new fuel pump intake filter?
Aloha
Jim

Aloha

Jim, I don't think there is a filter problem. When you shut the engine down the fuel pressure in the rail should hold and not drop. The reasons it could drop are a leaking fuel pressure regulator , leaky injectors or a defective check valve in the pump.
Since we are dealing with an excessive fuel condition that would eliminate the fuel pump check valve. It leaves only the regulator and injector(s). Your spark plugs should provide a clue . If only one or two plugs are really black then it is the injector(s) for those cyls. What you can try is to clamp off the fuel return line to the tank from the regulator. It should hold the pressure when you turn the key off. If it drops , it confirms either leaking injector(s) or fuel press regulator. Since the pressure is in the normal range when running I would suspect leaking injector(s) ,but regulators have been known to be defective right out of the box. It's a pain to remove the fuel rail with the injectors, but Pressuring the rail with the injectors out still attached to the rail you will see the leaking injector(s) . You will become an expert after you get done with this one !! If you do decide to remove the injectors , the "O" rings on them must be replaced when reinstalling to prevent external fuel leaks. They can be lubricated with a little clean motor oil.

Aloha
hanky

Thank You Hanky

I will start on this this path tomorrow. I would not have thought of clamping the return line. All your ideas are great. I'll check the plugs and the spray pattern from the injectors with the fuel rail removed and pressurized. I was ready to drop the tank. My wife was by my side the last time with a fire extinguisher. I'am not as risky no days.
I'am getting a steady 15 lbs. vacum. I removed the distributer and forgot to mark it. I thought I could set the timing with a vacum gauge,but, it didn't increase the vacum. I haven't looked for vacum leaks around the intake manifold with brake cleaner, so it's a good time to replace the upper intake gasket, which I see are famous for this problem.
Could this have happened. I bought the van from a company that kept it maintained and indoors. These vans are really nice. What happened was someone cut the three inch rubber between the intake fuel pipe and fuel tank. They used a hose to siphon off the gas. The company sold it to me because they couldn't get it to idle. They had left the tank exposed to condensation for over a year and I was able to get it runnable using water remover. Since then I have run two cans of Techron, didn't help. This is the question, do you think water could have damaged some of injectors? Would you clean most of them and replace some or order a set on-line. Some one is selling a injector cleaning machine on craigslist for two hundred dollars, good investment?
I'll try all these ideas tomorrow morning. Thanks a million for the help. I'll keep you posted.
Aloha
Jim

Hanky

I did some research and I'am sure you would agree to have the injectors professionally serviced first. I think there is someone here that can do this, I'll check tomorrow. I have used pressurized fuel injection cleaner at the fuel rail in the past, I think on GM cars. It's nice to see the engine even out. Is there a fitting and hose for ford, and is their a pressurized cleaner you would recommend? Would you try several cans, before taking out the injectors? I have listened to the injectors with my stethoscope and they sounded good.
Thanks
Jim

Sometimes the things in a bottle help, but not always. The injectors are no doubt working, but they may not be closing off completely and leaking adding extra fuel.
The better thing to do is remove them and observe their operation under the same pressure as when working in the engine. They should not drip or leak at all when not energized. The problem with the fuel tank could have contributed to the problem. The better thing to consider is to replace them.

Thanks Hanky

Will do.

Hi Hanky

I think you will find this interesting. The day I was going to pull the injectors, the van started smoking considerably less. I put in a can of very powerful injector cleaner in the gas, thinking I would try to clean so-so injectors before taking any out after going through the 15 gallons of gas used for the mixture. We drove until empty after repeatilly stepping on the gas at varying speeds. Half way through this, it sounded like the air intake tubes to the throttle body had come off. After this van was smoking 90 percent less. The other problem, no starts after warm was partially solved. I replaced the plugs which all looked fuel fouled after only two hundred miles. After this I didn't have to take out the fuel relay as often to purge the excessive gas mixture, which You could smell. I took the compression and all cylinders read 130 lbs. the vacum is 15 lbs. and steady. I set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. I have checked the majority of the vacum lines for leaks especially the intake manifold. I didn't find any using brake cleaner? Also, I found out I thought I had leaking injectors,but, the shradder valve for the fuel pressure guage had a piece of rubber stuck in it. The injectors do not leak down and the fuel pressures are within specs. I do not feel much pressure at the exhaust when the engine is excellerated. The loud air intake sound seems to be around the catylatic converters. I'am thinking they might be clogged? Another reason I suspect this, is because, so much of the of the of the exhaust is coming in the passenger compartment engine cover, from two half penny holes in the emission tube connecting to the back of both cylinder heads. Also, I have very poor excelleration. Before cutting out the converters, will it effect the oxygen sensor right near the seperation? At least it's hard to detect fuel at the exhaust! Do you think I pushed some openings in the cataylic converted using the fuel additive?

Aloha
Jim

Hanky

Do you think this could help the hard up-shift to second? Could it be as simple as replacing an o-ring in the transmission valve body? Also, I like to change the transmission fluid by pouring 12 or so gallons in transmission filler tube while purging it from the return line. Same way with the power steering. Would you use a flushing agent to clean out the transmission radiator cooler. I have never had a professionlly done transmission service using heated back flushing agents. Would you recommend this or another process. I have a little over 100,000 miles. I have had a additive in the transmission for the last 300 miles. I was hoping it might swell some o-rings. There has been no change. My transmission has an overdrive button, this must be the EOD transmission?

Thanks a Million
Jim

One more question, for now, is there an additive I can add to synthetic oil to build up the compression. I just put in 10-50 weight oil. I also, added oil to one cylinder during the compression test and it brought it up to over 220 lbs.? Could the rings be sticky from the rich fuel mixture? The oil pressure looks good at over two thirds. I changed the oil and filter with the best I could buy. I really believe that if your nice to your vehicle, it'll be nice to you!

Thanks Again
Jim

Aloha !

The first thing, changing the trans fluid and filter is all you need to consider to take care of the trans. A flush is , in my opinion a money maker for the location doing it.
Next are you disconnecting the spout connector at the dist before setting initial timing to the spec? Once set the computer controls the timing.
130 lbs is not bad compression as long as all the cyls are fairly similar.
There is a good possibility the converter is restricted/plugged. To confirm, connect vacuum gauge and hold the rpm around 2500 rpm. If the vacuum continues to drop , the converter is plugged. They are large and expensive for those years and models.
An over rich condition will cause the converter to get so hot trying to clean up the exhaust it melts the substrate inside the converter. I have seen some people remove the outlet of the converter and run a bar through it to make an opening .It lessens the restriction, but does nothing to help clean the exhaust.

Aloha

ALOHA

Thanks for the quick reply. I removed the sprout to time it, thanks. The advice for watching for a vaccum drop was just what I was looking for. Also it's nice to know my compression is o.k. I'll take your advice for the transmission service. Nice to save some money! I'am going to run a new exhaust pipe in place of the cataylic conververters. There is a set of emmission tubes running from a tee with a one way valve to the back of both heads. The emissions comes from a pipe attached between the cataylic converters. I would like to bypass this assembly, because to run a new one, I would have to drill and weld into the new exhaust pipe. I would like to cap the tubes off. Could this effect the computer adversely? The engine starts right up, but, even with the new plugs I have to still vent the excess gas mixture by removing the fuel pump relay then turning over to start it. It's not as often as before,but, makes me think this has something to do with excessive back pressure? The various inaccurate fuel pressure readings I was getting because of the stuck shradder valve were a real problem. Just wish I had written them down, it would had made a lot more sense. I forgot, the air filter looks like it is clogged from the rich mixture? Just replaced it. I'am putting in a new PVC valve today. I had a friend that didn't know anything about cars who would clean the air filters in the dishwasher. What do you think about that? Talk to you soon.
ALOHA
Jim

Hanky

Just want you know this van is going places. Next month I want to paint it with a white Cadillac pearl with a champagne background, for advertising my small body shop and paint business. I have found a clear coat on the internet that has the highest "water" look. I can't think of the name, but it's around a $100 a gallon, plus actvator and reducer. I just need to see how long the clear will last. A good clear should last 12 or more years in bright sunlight. This could be a good deal. I'll send you the pictures and keep you informed.

Thanks Again
Jim

There are some air filters that claim to be washable although I have never used one. A while back I used to teach some auto mechanics at the adult evening class and I did have one gent that could not understand why he couldn't clean the cooling system in his vehicle with laundry detergent. They are out there !!!!!
A rich mixture should not have any effect on the air filter although a plugged air filter will result in the engine losing power because the oxygen sensor will sense a rich mixture due to lack of air and reduce injector on time fuel delivery to the cyls.
Those pipes you have at the back of the engine are part of the emission system and the air pump is supposed to provide additional air to the exhaust when the engine is cold so it doesn't pollute too much . I don't know how strict any vehicle insp program is where you are, but we were not able to disconnect anything and it had to work. Some places exclude older vehicles too.
Am looking forward to some pix and hopefully you can advise me on the correct way to repaint my daily driver a 1990 Buick Century. They did have some problem with the water base primer and solvent base color coat. What I know about auto body and paint work can very easily fit on the head of a pin. Will wait for your good news when you get the van all set. You and family have a happy Fourth of July,, Aloha !

ALOHA

It's fixed! Thank you soo much Hanky. It was the catylatic converters. The day after it started running better, the van wouldn't go more than thirty miles per hour with slow acceleration. I cut between the two converters, because it gave me straight tubes to punch out the material. Also, I wanted the same size pipe and heat shields in place. I replaced the rest of the exhaust and put in a flow master muffler. The difference was amazing. I can barely smell gas at the exhaust and it runs and now shifts great. The only problem is around 2500 - 3500 rpm and up, there is moderate cutting out. Now, Hanky I'am going for 18 mpg. I will put in electric fans, synthetic wheel bearing grease, 90 weight and engine oil. What do you think about advancing the timing? Any other suggestions. I have set the timing to 12 degrees BTC and it starts with a click.
Hanky, I want to tell you all I know about body work and paint. I can show you how to do a number 10 job. I have had people argue that my paint jobs are factory. The truth is it's easy to do. There is a pretty rigid system put out by the paint manufacters. If you follow this system, your paint jobs will turn out beautiful. There was a revolution in paints during the eighthys and paints are easier to apply. I have a lot to share with you and I will be here for you. I have a doctors appointment, will get back soon.
ALOHA
Jim

ALOHA
Glad you found the problem and got it squared away. The cutting out problem might just go away after you drive it a while. Advancing the timing might be inviting problems since the computer controls that. You sure did a lot of work on this van and it should serve you well.
ALOHA
hanky