Need Help a With A/C Pleasee!!!
#1
06-14-2018, 03:09 PM
Need Help a With A/C Pleasee!!!
I bought a 97 e150 in Virginia about 3 months ago and just moved to Boulder Co in which it it ridiculously Hott. When I bought the van the a/c did not work and need help diagnosing the issue as I am not to familiar with A/C systems. Some details.....when I turn the A/C dial to normal or max A/C I hear nothing engaging or making no any noise just HOTT air blowing back into the cab. I checked Freon level with guage I got from Walmart and it says it is “above normal” or to the max. I am joping it is something I could fix myself at a reasonable price instead of getting a garage to replace the compressor and everything (a lot of money).
Thanks for the help guys!!!!
Thanks for the help guys!!!!
#2
06-14-2018, 08:39 PM
First thing would be to visibly look at the compressor clutch,, locking up-spinning? Think’n not since your not hearing it.
Not sure I’d trust a WM gauge,, but..
If no clutch engagement, up by the evaporator case/drier near the firewall, you’ll see the low pressure line and charge port. There will be a 2 wire connector/switch there. It’s the low pressure/cycling switch.
Use a test light or meter and with the A/C On, on the pink harness wire at the connector,, is voltage present? If yes,, as a TEST ONLY use a wire a bridge the harness connector pins. Compressor run? If so, leave the bridge in a short while and monitor the vent temps ( the low pressure line will get cold as well).
Any difference Yes, No? Depending on the answer, may help in a direction to go..
But again,, as a test only! Do Not leave the cycling switch jumped or any extended time, or it can freeze/lock up the compressor in a good system causing damage, or damage the compressor if the system is void of refrigerant/oil..
Not sure I’d trust a WM gauge,, but..
If no clutch engagement, up by the evaporator case/drier near the firewall, you’ll see the low pressure line and charge port. There will be a 2 wire connector/switch there. It’s the low pressure/cycling switch.
Use a test light or meter and with the A/C On, on the pink harness wire at the connector,, is voltage present? If yes,, as a TEST ONLY use a wire a bridge the harness connector pins. Compressor run? If so, leave the bridge in a short while and monitor the vent temps ( the low pressure line will get cold as well).
Any difference Yes, No? Depending on the answer, may help in a direction to go..
But again,, as a test only! Do Not leave the cycling switch jumped or any extended time, or it can freeze/lock up the compressor in a good system causing damage, or damage the compressor if the system is void of refrigerant/oil..
Last edited by Hayapower; 06-14-2018 at 08:49 PM.
#3
06-14-2018, 09:09 PM
Update
Ok so a update I was going threw all my fuses and relays under the hood the F relay I believe is for the clutch was actually missing so I bought one and put it in there but it will not hold in Place like the metal female connectors are completely missing to where there is nothing holding the relay posts???? Any idea why something like that would be missing randomly??
#4
06-14-2018, 09:44 PM
F relay socket is not used..
Check the connector i mentioned.. It will prove out voltage through the control selector switch as well as panel circuit protects.. If there’s voltage on the pink wire on the harness connector, the issue is not power distribution..
Check the connector i mentioned.. It will prove out voltage through the control selector switch as well as panel circuit protects.. If there’s voltage on the pink wire on the harness connector, the issue is not power distribution..
#5
06-28-2018, 10:58 AM
Unless you are willing to put in a considerable amount of time, you might want to take her in and at least get a diagnosis. My AC wasn't working in my 01' E350. I had a crack in the front evaporator, I went to Oreilly Auto and borrowed their AC gauges (a MUST in my opinion) and saw that my low line was super high and so was my high line. I used one can of the refrigerant + dye and found my front leak immediately, but found that my compressor cycled on and off like it would if there was low refrigerant. So, currently assuming my clutch is OK, but needed to find all of the leaks. But be ready to fall down a rabbit hole. I took off my evaporator, and found my oriface tube (cheap filter/vaporizor) was plugged with gunk (aka, the sealant crap people use to "fix" an AC system ugh). Replaced oriface and evaporator and using two very large wrenches could not get my Accumulator off. So I bought a new one and replaced that too...depending upon which vehicle you have mine had ANOTHER leak at the rear AC. If you don't have that, good for you 
haha.
Anyways, long story short, you don't want to just let freon out into the air, so it might be good to bring it to a shop that can at least test for a leak, and then do the work yourself to save the money if you are handy and don't mind swearing a little. Do the jumper method above first if you don't want to bring it to a shop right away. I'm a couple hundred in parts right now, but I ended up replacing damn near everything so I don't have to worry about it again. I'll be bringing it to a shop when everything is finally installed, so they can put the correct amount of oil for the compressor and refrigerant in the system.
haha.Anyways, long story short, you don't want to just let freon out into the air, so it might be good to bring it to a shop that can at least test for a leak, and then do the work yourself to save the money if you are handy and don't mind swearing a little. Do the jumper method above first if you don't want to bring it to a shop right away. I'm a couple hundred in parts right now, but I ended up replacing damn near everything so I don't have to worry about it again. I'll be bringing it to a shop when everything is finally installed, so they can put the correct amount of oil for the compressor and refrigerant in the system.
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