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2010 escape ( V6) clunking in front end?

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Old 03-31-2013, 09:59 AM
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Default 2010 escape ( V6) clunking in front end?

Hello, we drive a 2010 escape and I am getting a small cluking noise when we drive on uneven surface, rough road ect, The drivers side control arm was replaced about two years ago under warr. we are on a tight budget and it is no longer under warr. We live out of town I and I commute to many clicks already!

I can replace the control are myself again, about 200 dollars, but do not want to wast money, any help would be greatly appreciated. I have heard this can be an issue with this model of ford.

I am hoping some one can help me narrow down the issue as it is hard to get under the vehicle while it is being driven, thank you!
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:31 AM
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The common source is sway bar end links. These give a rumble right beneath your feet as that's where the sway bar is. If the link is loose the clunking/rumble begins slightly at first then builds as the nut loosens further.
Pull a wheel and check the linkage and make sure it's tight before you go any further.
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:17 AM
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that clunking as you put it could also be coming from a bad wheel bearing or bad cv joint. while you're at it do you know how to check balljoints?
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:12 PM
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Hi, thank for your time. No I am not sure how to check ball joints. I just bought a haynes repair manual for our escape, so between that and the help I may get here, I will learn as I go.
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:14 PM
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Could it be the control arm, as I indicated above? Do you know how I could check the wheel bearing or cv joint, thanks a lot!
 

Last edited by MatlockPaul; 03-31-2013 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:40 PM
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the wheel bearings are easy to check if you jack up the front end you grab on to the wheel and see if you can move it in all directions not spinning the tire the ball joints are almost the same way with one big difference on those you need a little help but it can be done while the wheel is still up on the jack take a large pry bar and put it under the tire and pull up on the bar in a straight direction while that is being done you or someone who knows what they're looking at or for see if gap between lower control arm and the wheel bearing assy. moves if no movement then ball joint is good. while your at it you'll need to take the time to check the bushings on the sway bar or torsion arm
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:44 PM
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Thanks, I have noticed today that it is more present when I go slow and turn my steering wheel right to left a good bit. I also notice it when I go slow over rough road.It is a real bitch to locate the cause. Do you know how much ford would charge me to just find the problem, even if I intend to fix it myself? If it is the wheel bearing,or ball joints how bad will it be to wait till this coming weekend to look at it? It does seem to be getting worse and i do not want to inflate my repair costs as a result. I really appreciate all the great feed back, you guys are great!


Do you know if the 2010 escape ball joint ect need to be greased or any of this front suspension parts need to be re greased at the nipples? If so how is this done ?
 

Last edited by MatlockPaul; 03-31-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:22 PM
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Almost NONE of the front steering parts/suspension have grease fittings unless the part has been replaced with aftermarket. The aftermarket ones do have grease fitting which should be used to fill the rubber until you can just see it swell.
If you have the Haynes manual then check the sway bar end links, then check the ball joint and for any tears in the CV boot. Same with the bearing. You can easily identify the problem if you take the time to diagnose it. The dealership will charge you $125 for the diagnosis plus the cost of the repair.
As an example the end links cost $45. The dealership will charge you $125 (or apply 50% of the diagnosis fee) plus the part with markup and then the repair. The whole job in this example will be $295. I had it quoted myself before I did it myself.
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:33 PM
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that tells me that you might have a bad tie rod end steering it right to left and back right at low speed. taking it to a dealership will cost you $$$ the best way for just about the least amount is take it to a front end or alignment shop they can and will find that clunking sound and give you an estimate for repair or if you are equiped enough to do it yourself at least then you'll know what to replace.
 
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:49 PM
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Thank you so very, very much to all who replied. I think I will take it to a front end shop and see what they have to say ( great idea) At least thanks to all of you, I have several ideas that sound possible and feel more informed.

Regardless I will try to do the repair myself if I can. I truly appreciate all the time that was taken by others to help, it is people like you that make this site all that it is. Ford should be paying you guys, but that would make to much sense. I do not trust the dealerships one bit, there have been cases where they did not do work or I was not sure they did and said they did.

It is such a same that the dealer are such crooks, it would be a better world if you could take your vehicle to where you bought it and pay a fair price to have it fixed by the people that built it. But that will never happen, once they have your money that do not give a **** about you, unless it is to take more of your money! Sorry about the rant, but it could be so much better than it is.
 

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