I recently got a 06 and I need to replace all three cats. Does anyone have any pointers about replacing the 2 on the exhaust manifolds? Any pointers, tricks any feedback would be great. I’ve googled it and looked at different manuals but just need more insight.

thanks

 

You did not mention what engine you have, based on you saying there are two on the exhaust manifolds you would have the 3.0 engine.
For the O2 sensors you will need either a 22mm open end wrench which is what I use or a O2 sensor specified wrench.
Get at least two cans of penetrating oil of whatever brand you want and multiple times soak all the exhaust nuts you will need to remove, it will make your life extraordinarily easier.
Since all these bolts/studs are exposed to road grime some will have built up crap in the threads that if bad enough can **** with removing the nuts, hitting them with a wire brush is not a bad idea.
I would replace the gaskets between the cats and the engine heads, you can replace the other gaskets if you want as well but I dont worry about them nearly as much.
I would highly recommend getting a torch to help loosen stubborn rusted exhaust nuts, torch the nut not the bolt, metal expands when it heats up. HOT METAL LOOKS THE SAME AS COLD METAL.
For the exhaust hangers it helps to spray them with the penetrating oil before slipping them off and on, Lisle 38350 is ****ing amazing and well worth the $20 on amazon, I am ashamed it took me two years to buy mine, you can get by using screwdrivers but I really hate fighting exhaust hangers.
If you dont have a set already its not a bad idea to get a set of nut extractors for when the rusted exhaust nuts start to round off in addition to getting a handful of new nuts to replace those you have to use the extractors on, I believe all the exhaust nuts are the same, I have not been impressed with the harbor freight extractors, spend a little more and get better ones.
The studs going into the heads I believe are E torx style and it will be a pain in the *** if any of the studs loosen with the nuts still tight if you dont have the tool for holding the studs, harbor freight is your friend for these.

First two pictures are of the two cats circled in yellow, the Y pipe is circled in blue.
Last picture is the rest of the exhaust system, the exhaust cat is circled in yellow, the muffler is circled in red, the resonator is circled if green.

 

Thank you so much, I completely spaced on the engine size. It’s a 3.0l AT.

Here’s the backstory it was my moms and it was serviced regularly I did some we took it in for some. The transmission went out and we got it replaced. It’s 160k no other problems. And about 6 months later the cats went out. We took it to 3 different shops and they all checked it and said all 3 went out which they said happens at times with the 04-06 years. So she bought a new car since the avg was around 3-4K to replace (And she didn’t want to fix it and it was low for selling it). So it’s sat for almost about a 1.5yrs and she said I could have it if I pay for parts. So I bought everything 3 cats, o2 sensors, new battery, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, Basically everything I could think of for it sitting so long. I also looked at the Rotors and they are extremely rusted, mind you I did the front brakes about 6 months before everything happened. So I’ll see if they can be machined and replace the pads.

Also I’ll have to change the oil but is there anything Else I should do? With it sitting for a while? I do start it about once a week or so and move it forward and back. Oh I’ll also have to get the tires rotated. I just now have time this weekend with the holiday so I want to be prepared as much as possibly.

And I know the shocks will need to be replaced they were starting to be bad as all this was happening, so I’ll have to figure out what do to either upgrade or what?

The starter and alternator have been replaced. But not the timing belt, when should I replace that? Also is there any upgrades I should do? stuff I’m not aware of that would help or solve problems down the road?

It’s been maintained and was running great no problems, leaks or issues. I’m just excited to get it back in the road.

sorry for all the question and thank you so much

 

Personally I would drive it for at least a week before I did any work on it to see how it drives before you start throwing parts at it. Clear the codes in case there are any other then the catalytic converter codes and see if they come back.
If you want to get the rotors turned and they are covered with rust I would drive the car a few miles with the old brake pads to clean off as much rust as possible before turning them.
The intake manifold has to be removed to replace the spark plugs, take your time with that, dont lose the EGR valve gasket.
Use motorcraft spark plugs or at the very least NGK or Denso, DO NOT ****ING USE BOSCH SPARK PLUGS NO MATTER HOW CHEEP THEY ARE.
Clean the throttle body while you have the intake manifold off.
I recall the fuel filter needing a special tool to remove it, Lisle has a tool that works perfect.
The 3.0 has a timing chain so dont worry about that.
This engine is known to leak from the timing cover and the oil pan. I assume yours is leaking since they all seem to be leaking, but as long as its not dripping oil I wouldnt bother with it.

 

Thank you so much