Recently changed the filter/pump (and strainer) on a 2002 Ford Escort SOHC and whenever the car sits for hour or longer it seems to lose pressure. Takes a while to start. There doesn't appear to be any gas leaks on the line. If I turn the key 2 or 3 times without cranking it, it usually will start up on the 4th or 5th try. Which originally was the problem that made me change the filter and both the pump (pump more so because the garage said that it DEFINITELY was the problem with a huge overpriced quote). I've also had my plugs/wires changed and had injection cleaning ran on it.

I've spoken with parts stores and they said maybe a check valve, they didn't necessarily think on a Escort the Fuel Pressure Regulator would be the cause but they weren't certain.

I don't really notice a big loss in performance while actually driving it, I haven't taken it on a long trip yet but even then...

Thanks

 

I was thinking maybe the fuel pressure regualtor. Check the rail pressure to see where it's at. You might also want to check to make sure you got it sealed good at the top of the tank. I've ran into that problem before, with the new gasket (o-ring) not being the right thickness.

 

Thanks a lot for the reply. I'll have to check into FPR, and doing a pressure test on the Rail. I'm not really even certain yet with the FPR is located, need to research that a bit more.

When I replaced the pump I did receive the o-ring, granted it was a circle... it wasn't "round" like the ring that was in there... the ring in there was definitely circular and fit a lot better than the new ring did. So I stuck with the old one. Do you think maybe I should try the new one? despite the fact it doesn't look like it's going to fit in there at all? The current one didn't look damaged... but never really ran into this sort of situation before either...

 

If the old ring seems to fit better it is probably best to just leave it in if you are fairly sure it's sealed good. Not sure how the fuel system on the newer Escort is set up, but on lots of fuel pump systems there are short pieces of fuel line on the pump assembly inside the tank. I have heard of those pieces of hose getting holes in them causing the fuel pump not to pick up the fuel properly. If nothing else checks out it might be worth pulling the pump back out and checking it.

 

Thanks again, I'll do some work over the weekend and let you know if I come to a resolution... hopefully get a fuel pressure test done, along with checking into the FPR.

 

I've been really busy and have not had time to do a fuel pressure test as of yet, which I'm sure would be handy. However, I did drive the car ~800 miles over the weekend without it breaking down. I picked up a haynes manual and did a little extra research.... let me recap a little

Originally the car started having starting problems when it was off for more than ~30mins. If you turned it off, then right back on it would respond normally. Not long after, I received a check Engine light when tested was P0304, or Cylinder #4 misfire. Fuel injection cleaning ran, Spark plugs/wires replaced. The start problem still existed so I replaced the Filter/Pump and sock only. There was a problem with the "IN" fuel line to the filter, so I spliced it with a new hose. The problem was still present. On the way back from my trip the Service Engine Light came on again. This time P0302, or Cylinder #2 misfire... I've turned the light out and haven't done much to remedy this as of yet.

To start the car, if I turn the key "ON" but don't crank it and leave it sit for about 30 seconds, it does not have a successfully start. I can hear the pump kick in briefly. If I turn the key "ON and OFF" around 3 to 4 times, then the car starts normally.

I was doing some research on the particular make, model and engine of the car. 2002 Ford Escort SE SOHC Zetec 2.0L... on this make, they no longer consider it a "Fuel Pump Regulator" as much as a "Fuel Pump Sensor"... I guess ultimately, everything else aside... can the "sensor" go faulty or only "half" work? Everything else aside, as well as to consider?

 

Have you tested the coil pack? You're now getting cylinder misfires on two cylinders, sounds like possibly a bad coil. Might also want to test the crankshaft position sensor. Either of these can cause no start problems. Could be some bad injectors too? Looks like it's just going to take some time testing different things and hopefully you'll find the problem soon.

 

Went out and did some more looking today. I looked up on how to do some fuel tests but to be honest I wasn't for sure which valve(s) were the one to use. The residual pressure when the cars turned off is no good as already known... I noticed that the new fuel pump is a lot more audible than my old one, but maybe I just never noticed it before... another big thing is I went looking for the FPR under the hood and found nothing really? even with my manuals nothing really matches up...

Sorry to kind of back track, but do you think you could provide help on finding what the FPR would look like or where it's at? and maybe even where the valves are to test fuel pressure at??

Thanks...

EDIT: Scratch that, went to a local mechanic and asked him to point out the FPR, and Fuel pressure testing port on the fuel rail and discovered that there is no FPR in my model, that it's a fuel pressure sensor... and we would have to rig up an adapter to check the fuel pressure at the rail...

What I'll be looking at next I suppose is maybe a leaky injector...

 

1992 ford escort dies while running the car was runnig great but sudenly stop running good fel presure, new fuel filter, shot out valve works, any sugestions

 

Will your car start and run at all? If it won't start and you are getting plenty off gas check the timing belt to make sure it hasn't stipped some of the teeth off of it letting the valve timing be off. If the timing belt is OK it could be a bad crankshaft position sensor. If the car will run, but just dies it could be the IAC valve needs cleaning or replacing, a bad spark plug or bad spark plug wire. The best place to start is by checking to see if there are any codes stored in the ECU. There are many things that could cause the problem. I just named a few of the more common and easier to repair.