97 Escort got brakes replaced by local shop. Brakes are the squeekiest squealing brakes I've ever heard. Shop ends up being shady, and had to file a complaint because after we took the car BACK to the shop, they turned the rotors for the last time, (they need to be replaced) and finally told us our calipers are bad. His diagnosis is change the calipers and the squeek will go away. When the brakes warm up, it gets worse. Now it feels like it's grinding, but the pads are thick.

I can changes pads no problem, but wondered if there was a DIY on changing the calipers. Service manual??

Any help would be great. Thanks to all in advance.

 

Go to any parts store , like Napa, Carquest , AutoZone,Advance Auto parts , Kragen,etc, etc , etc .

They sell various books , Motor's , Chilton, Haynes. to just name a few. they wil cover your vechile from bumper to bumper , most have pretty good pictures to guide you along the way an they start at around $20.00 dollars an up

If you got the big bucks go to your local Ford dealer an order one there VERY pricey in excess of $100.00. but gives you most info

Also most public libarys have repair books you can read, find the section you need an photo copy it. ( normally they dont let referance books leave the libary )

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...Parameters=005

An this one from autozone is omline freeibe

 

I just replaced my calipers on my truck. If it wasn't for going back and forth to Pep Boys about 3 times, I would have had them done within 2 hours. The calipers for my truck cost $15 each. It is simple. I followed the haynes book. That cost me abput $15 or $20. The hardest part of the whole process, which really wasn't, was the bleeding. I didn't have anyone to help. I used The Club to hold the brake pedal in.

 

Start by confirming that the calipers are bad. I've had calipers last the life of the car.

Brake repairs are very straightforward. The biggest problem you face is corrosion causing siezed bolts, bleed nipples, and brake lines.

When I read the original post the first thought I had was that the hardware accompanying the pads was either not put on or put on incorrectly.

Why would you have two bad calipers at the same time? And why didn't the garage notice the caliper problem at first. In order to put the bigger pads and rotors on, the garage has to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. If it doesn't move well, then you know it's shot. that is the only moving part in the caliper. Other than that look for a cracked piston.

I wouldn't do any brake work without a Haynes book (or similar). The repairs are usually simple but the stakes are high if you make a mistake.

Ask around to other shops to find out why you are getting the squeal. There's only so much someone can tell over a forum. Being in the car makes a difference. If the calipers are bad I would expect that your rims would get very hot, the car might pull to one side, and you would get poor acceleration and gas mileage as the calipers are pressing on the rotor all the time.

You can do a quick check by jacking up the car, setting the parking brake and chocking the other front wheel. Put the car in neutral and turn the rotor by hand. It should turn with only a tiny bit of resistance from the brake caliper. Look for a spring that runs between the two pads at the front of the caliper. It helps push them away from the rotor after you release the brake.

Bleeding isn't hard if you buy a cheap one person bleeding kit. It is a one way valve hooked up to a tube with a cup at the end. Put a wrench on the bleed nipple, push the valve over the nipple and loosen the nipple one turn. Pump the brake enough times that you have filled the cup. Keep an eye on the master cylinder to ensure that it doesn't get too low. A cup of fluid flushed through is enough to bleed it and to freshen up the fluid. don't try to loosen the bleed nipple unless you plan to buy a new caliper. You will probably break the seized part.

Lightly clamp the brake hose before you disconnect it in the first place if you replace the caliper.

In short, get an independent confirmation that you need new calipers before you get expensive. Have a look down there yourself. If nothing else, familiarity will make you feel more like you own the car rather than the car owning you.

Last point. never strip down two brakes at once. Always keep one together to use as reference.

 

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys. Can't believe the love. You're right....... Can't have them both calipers go bad at the same time. Gonna have an independent shop take a look without knowing any of the hoopla. I'm sure that they used cheap pads on the recent job. Gonna go with better pads and new rotors. The car has 89,000 on it, and know that they need to be replaced ANYWAY. I'll let you all know.

Once again, thanks for getting back! Sharing knowledge is what it's all about.

 

Let us know what happens.

Finding out what repair eventually works is the other half of the circle.

cheers

 

I agree with justaskin. It also sounds like you got took by a shady shop as you stated. Bendix are a good pad too use try those, new rotors are great too. Its a pretty simple task to complete... I highly doubt you have even 1 bad caliper....they should have noticed that right from the start if they know any bit of what they were doing. Also with bad calipers it would be very resistful to accelerate the car with 2 bad calipers, 1 bad caliper you'd still feel the resist to accel plus it would pull to oneside and the rim would get very hot! so becareful when touching them unless you allow some cool down time. Good luck!

 

Hey Chefboiali,

It's been a week. how about returning some of that love?

Let us know what you discovered. Helps us the next time we're trying to solve our own problems.

cheers

 

In the past , mainly on the FORDS, with the plastic, bakeolite , pistons in the calipers ,

If I get a customer that has rode his pads way down till there like paper thin or you can flick the lining off with your finger nail. I strongly suggest they replace the calipers. I've had to many that after a fresh set of pads the pistons start sticking, causing brake drag.

An on these the boots were in good shape no cracks tears splits, that would allow dirt or water in, An every time the piston compressed easily into the caliper with out binding , hanging up.

An as far as the squeak , squeal if every thing is put back on the vechile all the rattle clips an springs, Theres several products on the market that adhere the pad to the caliper, an are very effective in stopping the noise. An in a pinch just a tad of RTV works greak , dont get it on the rubber parts or braking surface ------- Dont forget to pump the pedal several times after you replace the pads, before you try an drive the car to seat every thing

 

Wow, bakelite pistons.

How common is that? I know some plastics are pretty tough but I can't imagine them in such an extreme environment.

That does make me rethink how long the calipers would hold up.

Thanks for the expertise.