Will not start. Have a 96 code. Code description is " Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault - High Speed Fuel Pump Relay Open." The questions are: (1) Is this a fuel pump or relay problem? (2) Is the relay part of the fuel pump or a seperate part.? If a seperate part where is it located? AutoZone does not list a fuel pump relay while Kragen does. The Chilton's manual talks about a fuel pump relay, but offers no other help. Thanks for any and all assistance.

 

Go to fig 7, you will see pin 22 sends a grnd signal to relay ECM then looks for a B+ signal at pin 8. If no signal returns code is set, this maybe may things, fuse 8 blown. If fuse blown you have a short or pump drawing to much current. You can have open wire or connector. You can EEC relay not giving fuel relay B+, or you can have a bad relay.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800ba9c7.jsp

relay location is in power disturbution box in engine compartment

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...97.jsp#hd1-1-4

 

Just curious, did you check for an INERTIA SWITCH ? If so equipt, then check to see if it has been tripped. [8D]

 

Kragen's , Man use buy stuff there all the time when I lived on the West Coast,,, If you got a Owners Manuel it should point it out too , as well as the inertia switch

 

Thanks for the replies. The car does have an interia switch. I checked it first. Checked the fuses, they are ok. Going to pick a fuel pump relay tommorow. Wiil post results. Thanks again!

 

Thanks for all the help. Replaced fuel pump relay, motor started right up. Thanks again.

 

Great work and good T/Sing

 

Back Again! Still have "Check Engine Light". Pulled the codes and here are the results: (1) Key On, Engine Off: 41C, O2 sensor always lean, no switching. (2) Key On, Engine On: 21R, Engine Coolant Temp. sensor out of range or ECT out of range (engine may have been too cold), and 42R, O2 sensor always rich. Black smoke and soot emits from the exhaust when performing the test. Replaced the following parts after using Alldata's online program and testing the individual components: O2 sensor; Mass Air Flow Sensor; Inlet Air Temp. Sensor (Air Charge Temp.); Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor; PCV valve; Oil & Filter; and Air Filter Element. Have tested the CNAP solenoid and it work correctly. Also the engine pulls a steady 22 inches of vacum. Could the injectors cause this problem? Alldata says the Thermafactor could also cause the problem, but cannot find such a part on the vehicle. The vehicle is registered in Texas, but I have relocated to California and need to pass a smog test. Will appreciate any and all help.

 

Looks like you've got yourself a fair bit of trouble goin on over there...I'm not usually one for going to the mechanics, but this seems like one of those times...you don't neccesarily have him fix it, but he may also be able to offer some good advice as to what is going on...

 

Thanks for the response. Not ready to go to a mechanic yet. More info. I forgot to include in the previous post. The "Check Engine Light" does not come on until the engine has been running for approx. 10 minutes. The light seems to take longer to turn on if the outside temp. is cool. With the light on turn the key off, then restart. The light takes again about 10 minutes to turn on.