Ive just completed a brake line change on an 1993 Ford Explorer. It was the passenger side front. I have pics and a small explaination of the whole ordeal. The main problem to the change is the large and hideous amounts of rust. Well I don't think it needs to be said but for those who are not exactly fast minded, you have to take the tire off. At this point it would make great sense to drain the brake resivor if it isn't already empty (due to faulty lines). When looking at the caliper and hub assembly, u'll notice that the wheel well is in your work path. There are two ways of handling this, one taking off the well by unbolting all the engine pieces connected to it. I chose the patient approach and just worked with compensations. Now right at the top part of the line there is a 7/16 bolt that threads the feeder into the line you are about to replace. The best tool for this job is an open end wrench. For assistance keep a good amount of Wd40 on hand to tackle the rust. Once that line is disconnected there is small barbie pin type clamp that needs to be pushed up towards the engine bay to release the line for extraction. (If you are trying to preserve shop or garage floors Keep a pan of some sort to catch any excess fluid in that may be in the line.) Once the clamp has been removed the top end of the line will slide from its slot. There are three plastic clamps connected to another cable in your current working area. Don't worry about what the line is once the clamps are off just push it to the side. ok now some of the harder comes to play. down at the caliper there is a 14mm bolt that holds the bottom piece of the line on. I will continue in a few my laptop is dying.

 

Continuing from the last post. I was up to part where you disconnect the 14mm bolt located on the back of the caliper. You can use the socket wrench in this situation. The rust isn't too much of a problem but if you are a little on the weak side you can use an extension bar to gain more leverage. I normally keep the 3" ext. on just in case I'm feeling under the weather. When You remove the bolt "don't lose it", you'll need it to reattach the brake line. remove the washer from the bolt as the new brake line comes with fresh washers so dont be cheap and try to reuse them. It will only cause problems later on in life. Place a washer on either side of the bottom the new brake line, when you thread the bolt back through the washers will form the seal to keep the fluid in. tighten the bolt back in and then move back to the top and secure the feeder line back to the new brake line. once youn tighten the feeder line, the job is 80 percent done. When all the lines are secured clamp the brake lines back to the line you pushed to the side. Now for the grand finale bleeding the brakes. The bleeder valve is about 2in above the 14mm bolt mentioned earlier. it took some creativity to get it open cuz the rust ond my sockets just kept stripping it down. When i finally got it right i was using an 11mm standard to loosen the valve. This part needs a two man team. You need to have a friend pump the brakes (with the car running) till he feels pressure in the brake then release the valve to get the air out. repeat the bleed process until all the air is out. Now you have successfully changed the brake line it was fun for my first time out. I've done two since and the average time is about an hour in a half not counting rust and temperature problems.

 

sorry for not having the pictures the uploader says they are too large