hey guys i just got done basically replaceing everything on this 91 explorer brake system. i cant get the brakes bled right though. i have dang near stripped the bleeder fittings and the brakes are still very spongey. i havent replaced the power brake booster or rabs valve or rabs module. with the problem i am haveing should i replace rabs valve next to see if that makes a difference? Or does anyone know of a possible cause for the brakes being this spongey still???

 

Also i know there is a special tool they use to bleed ABS brake systems but would that same tool be used to bleed my rabs system? i was under the impression that the reason they use the speical tool for bleeding ABS is because of the HCU but maybe my rabs valve/ proportioning valve has to have that same tool to bleed it. any thoughts or ideas here would be helpful..

 

so what was the out come?

 

RABS valves will bleed fairly easily. With a pressure bleeder, then you should have a problem at all. I'm sure you've thougth about it, but didn't mention if the Master Clyinder was replaced? They can cause most of these problems.

 

Oh yea, I replaced the master cylinder and power booster. Like you, I bled them out on 3 separate occasions until the bleeder valves were almost stripped.
So should I get one of those hand pump, (kind of like a caulk gun) bleeders and bleed each wheel again? Or, is there a tool to bleed the rabs it self?
Also, will that take care of the anti lock warning lite on the dash?
Thanks for any info

muddsman

 

This can be sticky. There isn't a special bleeding procedure for the basic RABS system other then what you're doing, but do try to make sure all the air is out. I've had battles with many cars that have had master cly. installed and then won't bleed easily, even though the master was bench-bled. As far as the ABS light on, usually about 90% of the time, the RABS valves were at fault (you can get the code by grounding the black/orange wire under the dash somewhere, usually in a corner, easy to miss, and it's just a sinle wire with a square connector on the end that goes to nothing. Turn the key on and ground out the wire. The light will flash a 1 or 2 digit number). Sometimes though, these had speed sensor problems (the round sensor in the top of the diff). If you can get a code, I could be more specific.

 

Sounds good, wish I had the time to do it now, will let you know the outcome.

Thanks

muddsman