1968 F-150 restoration
Hi, I'm new to the forum so please excuse any small errors and if there are any blatant errors be gentle with the corrections...
I came to this forum because I love Fords and I need information on a 1968 f-150. The truck was owned by not one, but two, of my great grandfathers. Both have passed on in the last few years and this truck is more or less what I have to remember them by.
The truck is in pretty rough shape, nothing unsalvageable by any means though. Mostly it needs the lower half of the engine rebuilt (it threw a rod through the oil pan when it was being driven to its current resting place)... Iwant, but can't seem to find a 390 crate motor. Everything else can be replaced as I go but it has to have that first.
I was hoping that someone would have a line to (and price on) a 390 crate motor.. Any leads or information is appreciated, thanks
I came to this forum because I love Fords and I need information on a 1968 f-150. The truck was owned by not one, but two, of my great grandfathers. Both have passed on in the last few years and this truck is more or less what I have to remember them by.
The truck is in pretty rough shape, nothing unsalvageable by any means though. Mostly it needs the lower half of the engine rebuilt (it threw a rod through the oil pan when it was being driven to its current resting place)... Iwant, but can't seem to find a 390 crate motor. Everything else can be replaced as I go but it has to have that first.
I was hoping that someone would have a line to (and price on) a 390 crate motor.. Any leads or information is appreciated, thanks
Welcome to the site..
The truck is actually a F-100..
F150 wasn't produced until 1977.
There's quite a few engine rebuilders like Jasper ect. Even you local parts house like NAPA would have a line on rebuilt engines and parts. You would want to buy or consider a 'long block' which would be the block and heads. The new heads would have/be updated with hard valves and seats to burn unleaded fuel. One problem is that you won't have core to build or exchange. You may have to cover the core charge if you buy another engine or at least the block cost since it's now 'vented'
You may be able to find a buildable core at the local auto dismantler and have it built locally, but these are getting old and harder to find in salvage yards. I know there are afew salvage outfits here that cater to vintage cars and trucks.
There's plenty of outlets for engines and repair options, shop around, costs will vary. Exchange engines come with a pretty good warranty depending on the builder. Something to consider too..
The truck is actually a F-100..
F150 wasn't produced until 1977.
There's quite a few engine rebuilders like Jasper ect. Even you local parts house like NAPA would have a line on rebuilt engines and parts. You would want to buy or consider a 'long block' which would be the block and heads. The new heads would have/be updated with hard valves and seats to burn unleaded fuel. One problem is that you won't have core to build or exchange. You may have to cover the core charge if you buy another engine or at least the block cost since it's now 'vented'
You may be able to find a buildable core at the local auto dismantler and have it built locally, but these are getting old and harder to find in salvage yards. I know there are afew salvage outfits here that cater to vintage cars and trucks.There's plenty of outlets for engines and repair options, shop around, costs will vary. Exchange engines come with a pretty good warranty depending on the builder. Something to consider too..
The truck is actually a F-100..
F150 wasn't produced until 1977.
F150 wasn't produced until 1977.
Generally a remanufactured engine (long block) would run in or around the 1800.00+ range, and core charges may be in the 350-500.00 or so. Prices will range depending on the builder/supplier and build level. A 'new' engine really isn't an option anymore. A performace crate may be, but if your looking for just a more OEM replacement and fix, and the yours is fairly complete (other than the hole in the block) a long block would be a more price affective choice. Could be that your heads are usable (if later style hard valves and seats were installed or not original 68 heads) and could be remachined/reconditioned where you may get by with a replacement short block and drop the core charges some.
The thinking on builds are,, some consider a rebuilt as being a 'reconditioned' engine using some of the original pieces like pistons if acceptable (no re bore) with a re-ring, valve grind, crank grind ect, and remanufactured as most to all parts new aftermaket hard parts/wear parts replaced. Block bored, new pistons, new valves, push rods, rockers and so on. Kind of a fine line there, but most engine rebuilders follow the 'engine remanufacturing' process. Some machine shops may offer to 'refresh' or rebuild an engine and all depends on the 'level' of build the engine may need, 'and' how you want to describe the process.. Rebuilt, remanufactured, to some have the same meaning...
Be sure to go with a good machine shop (if rebuilding is an option with a used block), or engine supplier/builder if remanufactured. There are some 'less' quality builds being offered up at discount prices. You want to make sure 'any' shop, builder, or engine supplier will stand behind their product and service should a problem surface..
360-390 differ from crank stroke.. Prices shouldn't vary much..
The thinking on builds are,, some consider a rebuilt as being a 'reconditioned' engine using some of the original pieces like pistons if acceptable (no re bore) with a re-ring, valve grind, crank grind ect, and remanufactured as most to all parts new aftermaket hard parts/wear parts replaced. Block bored, new pistons, new valves, push rods, rockers and so on. Kind of a fine line there, but most engine rebuilders follow the 'engine remanufacturing' process. Some machine shops may offer to 'refresh' or rebuild an engine and all depends on the 'level' of build the engine may need, 'and' how you want to describe the process.. Rebuilt, remanufactured, to some have the same meaning...
Be sure to go with a good machine shop (if rebuilding is an option with a used block), or engine supplier/builder if remanufactured. There are some 'less' quality builds being offered up at discount prices. You want to make sure 'any' shop, builder, or engine supplier will stand behind their product and service should a problem surface..
360-390 differ from crank stroke.. Prices shouldn't vary much..
The F150 was introduced in 1975 to skirt around the catalyst/emissions regs for light duty trucks.
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