I am losing my mind. I drove down to visit parents and I'm stuck like chuck here.
I bought an 87 ford f150 4.9 it had oil in the water,replaced the head ( cracked ) and double checked everything from timing to the alternator. I replaced all parts that tested bad. I was a mechanic in the army so I am positive the engine is put back together,and tourqed to specs and tighten in the right order. 3 step tourqe procedure. new/ used head was taking to machine shop prior to installation
It started and ran rough so I pulled codes the check engine light does not work or I can't get it to work. So using the test light I pulled codes
and replaced parts that tested bad. I forgot the #'s I fixed them a month ago
fuel pump
fuel filter
map sensor
Got code 11 in KOEO, code 11 KOER.
problem fixed? no
drove it 10 miles and the same symptoms started again. Rough idle after warm up, poor acceleration, bad mileage.
pulled codes and tested all parts w/ multimeter
fuel pressure regulator ( leaking gas into vacumn lines )
intake air temp sensor ( the one in the intake close to the fuel pressure reg ) out of range
oxygen sensor, out of range
map sensor, out of range
got code 11 KOEO, code 11 KOER
drove for a week ran great. came down to vist parents (2 hour trip) same symptoms Idles really rough at lights no accelerations coughing and sputtering all the way horrible gas mileage
pulled codes
evp sensor replaced Got 5000 ohm's opened 5oo ohm's closed Code 34
still got code 34 I remember this one took 2 days to fix.
replaced EGR valve ( not seating properly )
pull codes 11,11
take for a drive same symptoms, come home no codes other than 11,11 but notice throttle body is dirty so I buy throttle body cleaner and remove throttle body to clean it. slipped out of my hands and breaks the plug off my IAC.
replace IAC why not everything else has bee replaced. Kick myself in the *** for being a cluts
take it for a drive it is running the worst it has ever run. Sounds like it's missing, rough idle, horrible acceleration, bad gas mileage.
a month ago,before I put truck on the road I dropped both tanks and cleaned them out as a precautionary procedure. I have great compression,replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, spark plugs are a golden brown, I never had plugs look so good (pulled them out 2 days ago). I have ran 6 tanks of gas through truck w/lucas in the first 3, seafoam in the last three. Just making sure the injectors were not restricted. They sound good using a stethoscope, listening for clicking sounds.
Now I am pulling codes KOEO 11, KOER 12, 13.
12 is rpm unable to reach upper limits
13 is rpm unable to reach lower limits
I love my truck but man I'm so confused as how to fix it can anyone help. I have all the basic tools to test parts no specialty tools. I am thinking of taking it to a dealership and see what they say I don't want to but man I have to get home soon. Glad I have a good woman at the house, please help if you can.

 

I was told the tps sensor was bad, so I checked w/ the multi meter and the ohms test failed. Replaced and now I'm getting a code 11 across the board. still running w/ the same symptoms. I am getting ready to do cylynder balance test will let you know how that turns out

 

cannot get the cylynder balance test to run so I am checking the base timing and making sure that the timing advance is functioning. will let you know

 

Ended up driving truck home. What a experience it was a horrible ride thinking that the thing would blow up. Got to give it to ford. Thier truck might not be running well, but you sure cant kill it.
Any way I did the base timing, The truck has the wrong harmonic balancer on it. I do not know what effect this has on perfomance. I put the number one cylyder on top dead center, compression stroke (brother helped me) marked the balancer to top dead center using the timing marks on the timing cover.
I checked timing by unpluging the spout plug coming off the distributer about 4 inch's away on the wiring harness. All it is is a wire coming away from main harness with a plug you remove to interupt the flow of volts.
Advanced timing is functioning correctly. Well I drove the truck home 2 hour trip took 3, coughed and sputtered all the way home, my next test will be on the fuel train, Oh and just to let you know me and brother drove around w/ a timing light hooked up to the engine and draped under hood and tested all cylynders to see how they were firing. We waited for the symptom to happen and there was no interuption in the timing light. so next I will test the fuel train.
Dan

 

The wrong harmonic balancer could make the engine shake alot.

 

thank you I will check into getting the right one and putting it on. Iwill let you know what happens

 

Have you tried a new computer?

 

I have not tried a new computer. I was trouble shooting the truck yesterday, when it quit producing a spark. It threw a code 14, I checked my Ignition control module it tested bad. So I replaced it. Tried to start the truck again, no spark. So I started pulling the computer. Then I thought because the scanner was still showing a code 14 that I would check the distributer.It would not move when turning the truck over. Well I busted 4 teeth off the distibuter drive gear.
I did not realize it but the teeth on it were so worn out that it had a tremendous amount of play. It finally just gave away. So I ordered the drive gear. We will see if this takes care of the problem that has been eluding me. Will let you guys know

 

Well guy's here's the scoop. Cam needed to be replaced along w/ the distributer drive gear. They guy I bought the truck off of replaced the cam and some how he broke the cam spacer as well as the thrust plate and had a peice of metal wedged behind the timing gear. Timing gear was not flush w/ the end of cam. This caused the cam to push in to were it road on half the cam bearing and the distributer drive gear was misaligned. New lifters and push rods were needed. The whole thing was a mess. I tried to take a short cut and not replace the bearings. I lost all oil pressure. So I had to pull the engine to replace the bearings. IN DOING THIS MY BROTHER FOUND MY ORIGINAL PROBLEM, I BOUGHT NEW PLUGS IN THE BEGINNING, ON ONE OF THEM THE PORCELIN WAS CRACKED ALONG THE BOTTOM. SPARK WAS JUMPING TO THE BLOCK AND WAS CAUSING TRUCK TO RUN ROUGH, MISS, IT WAS A DEAD CYLINDER. I WAS TOLD THIS WOULD WIPE OUT MY SENSORS AS THE SPARK SENT VOLTAGE THROUGH THEM? I am putting the engine back together and have complete confidence that my ford will be on the road next week. I will keep you informed