Efficiency towing set up help
This is my first post. I just bought a 1980 Ford f100 4.9L I6 w/ manual OD tranny. I bought the vehicle solely for the purpose of hauling parts and towing my corvette around that is under restoration.
I am looking to make sure i am equipping the best setup for what I need.
I have all the emission crap and a 1 bbl carb and get roughly 24 mpg.
What mods if any should i look at? At this good of milage, i can use it for DD but i dont plan on using it often.
Should i keep the 1bbl carb w/ emission crap or go for the new intake and holley 4bbl carb?
Headers?
I dont care about how fast i can accelerate as long as i can be efficient and handle the towing load. I dont plan on ever exceeding 5000 lbs for towing.
thanks for any help. Im familiar at all with fords so this is a chance for me to learn.
I am looking to make sure i am equipping the best setup for what I need.
I have all the emission crap and a 1 bbl carb and get roughly 24 mpg.
What mods if any should i look at? At this good of milage, i can use it for DD but i dont plan on using it often.
Should i keep the 1bbl carb w/ emission crap or go for the new intake and holley 4bbl carb?
Headers?
I dont care about how fast i can accelerate as long as i can be efficient and handle the towing load. I dont plan on ever exceeding 5000 lbs for towing.
thanks for any help. Im familiar at all with fords so this is a chance for me to learn.
Welcome to the site..
F100 was long gone by 1980, but the 150/4.9 actually had decent torque and low end grunt considering its displacement. You may be limited (by state) to what you can add/remove and still remain within emission compliance. Open exhaust (no cat), and more fuel drop may push the limits on compliance and legal emission measurements, and might drop your overall mileage in the end. Although when towing, mileage never really is the big dissuader
A larger carb doesn't always equate to more power if not matched to a cam, intake (if possible) gears, exhaust etc. as part of an overall performance upgrade package..
The 150 that vintage was a more light weight contender compared to late date models, but should/would handle the load but may depend on 'where' or how your doing most of your towing. Hills/steep grades, higher altitudes and so on will greatly affect what that 150/4.9 can do. Have you tried a test pull with the truck in OE configuration?. Are you planning on towing shorter or longer distances (gearing), or for more local shows, shops etc?
Trailer have itegrated brakes?, tire load ranges to handle your max weight and sway, tongue weight at 5K would be? (bed empty or parts and gear?) I've pulled a few heavier loads with my old 150 and sway, stopping, and squat was more of an issue than power (was a 5.0/auto) but most of my trailering was in more flat area's. OD may take the wind out of your sails in the 'problem' ranges like slight/moderate grades, heavier loads, altitudes, or all of the mentioned together..
The weight of your Vette and trailer (?) may be closing in on the weight of the truck or possibly more. Power although important,, so not to be a highway hazard,, but load control is more in the fore ground for me for a lighter weight performer. You might try and do a loaded test run prior to buying and power upgrades or bolt ons.
They were good'ol trucks, 4.9 was a great power plant..
F100 was long gone by 1980, but the 150/4.9 actually had decent torque and low end grunt considering its displacement. You may be limited (by state) to what you can add/remove and still remain within emission compliance. Open exhaust (no cat), and more fuel drop may push the limits on compliance and legal emission measurements, and might drop your overall mileage in the end. Although when towing, mileage never really is the big dissuader

A larger carb doesn't always equate to more power if not matched to a cam, intake (if possible) gears, exhaust etc. as part of an overall performance upgrade package..
The 150 that vintage was a more light weight contender compared to late date models, but should/would handle the load but may depend on 'where' or how your doing most of your towing. Hills/steep grades, higher altitudes and so on will greatly affect what that 150/4.9 can do. Have you tried a test pull with the truck in OE configuration?. Are you planning on towing shorter or longer distances (gearing), or for more local shows, shops etc?
Trailer have itegrated brakes?, tire load ranges to handle your max weight and sway, tongue weight at 5K would be? (bed empty or parts and gear?) I've pulled a few heavier loads with my old 150 and sway, stopping, and squat was more of an issue than power (was a 5.0/auto) but most of my trailering was in more flat area's. OD may take the wind out of your sails in the 'problem' ranges like slight/moderate grades, heavier loads, altitudes, or all of the mentioned together..
The weight of your Vette and trailer (?) may be closing in on the weight of the truck or possibly more. Power although important,, so not to be a highway hazard,, but load control is more in the fore ground for me for a lighter weight performer. You might try and do a loaded test run prior to buying and power upgrades or bolt ons.
They were good'ol trucks, 4.9 was a great power plant..
How does your truck handle that weight?
I just aquired a similiar truck, a 94 f150 with the 4.9L and 5 speed manual. I plan on pulling something about 4000lbs.
I was surprized to find out the max rated trailer weight was only 2300lbs. The same truck, with the same rear end ratio but with the auto trans was rated for 4900lbs.
So, will the clutch hold up?
I just aquired a similiar truck, a 94 f150 with the 4.9L and 5 speed manual. I plan on pulling something about 4000lbs.
I was surprized to find out the max rated trailer weight was only 2300lbs. The same truck, with the same rear end ratio but with the auto trans was rated for 4900lbs.
So, will the clutch hold up?
IMO, the rating was purposly set low on manuals for not only clutch/trans life, but with a 5 speed and tall/high rear gears, more so.. The trucks where more designed for light loads and freeway speeds/mileage. Doesn't take much to flatten the OE springs either..
That's one reason I asked about 'terain', elevation and load. Although a different box on an 80, the 4.9 can pull a decent load, not intended for heavy use though and will struggle on any sustained grades. Even an auto will shift hunt trying to pull and maintain a moderate to heavy load on grade.
I've worked on fleets of mid 90's and earlier, manual and auto, that were used in commercial applications and I know for fact they went out beyond spec, and most times safety limits I'm sure. Towing within design legally is another consideration before hit'n the road.
I'd never condone anyone to go beyond spec (disclaimer there) ,,but me,, I'd size up the load. visual and known load/rates, and if it looks safe enough go for a test run to the local scale house. If its axle overloaded, or, if it has a hard time making and keeping speeds in the 'arena' that it will be used, then probably going to be an issue with law and safety...
If driven 'moderately' and not pushed too hard, they can do the job.. If the truck is being strained to get moving, and keep a speed, then probably not a good idea for that load, and at any sizeable distance..
That's one reason I asked about 'terain', elevation and load. Although a different box on an 80, the 4.9 can pull a decent load, not intended for heavy use though and will struggle on any sustained grades. Even an auto will shift hunt trying to pull and maintain a moderate to heavy load on grade.
I've worked on fleets of mid 90's and earlier, manual and auto, that were used in commercial applications and I know for fact they went out beyond spec, and most times safety limits I'm sure. Towing within design legally is another consideration before hit'n the road.
I'd never condone anyone to go beyond spec (disclaimer there) ,,but me,, I'd size up the load. visual and known load/rates, and if it looks safe enough go for a test run to the local scale house. If its axle overloaded, or, if it has a hard time making and keeping speeds in the 'arena' that it will be used, then probably going to be an issue with law and safety...
If driven 'moderately' and not pushed too hard, they can do the job.. If the truck is being strained to get moving, and keep a speed, then probably not a good idea for that load, and at any sizeable distance..
thanls for the replies.
I havent had a chance to test run it for towing. had issues with aged sludge in oil and belts snapping so i need to do the routine refresh work first.
The driveability thus far though was great although the 0-60 time was somewhere next year lol.
I have stock tires and stock setup for engine.
As for towing im looking at short to medium range, mostly flat for when im towing the car (vette is 3300 lbs plus whatever a trailer weighs)
Most of the stuff being hauled will be in the bed or on a short trailer. Mostly larger parts but nothing to exceed a ton or anything like that.
I am immune to emission inspection where I am at.
Right now I had to replace the smog pump because the original has seized and after trying to put it in, id have to shim the alternator cuz the pump is half inch longer than original.
Can i delete and plug the Smog (A.I.R) pump and lines without affecting the EGR?
I know it shortens cat life but the cat and rest of the exhaust needs work anyways.
Im not familiar with fords at all.
Would I be shooting myself in the foot efficiency wise if i replace carb with the offenhauser intake and 4bbl 390cfm car and use the hedman headers w/o cam and EGR delete or am i better off with the stock setup and 1bbl carb?
The idea is to not make this too much of a project and remain as cheap as possible. Ill prob see 2000 miles per year on this truck.
thanks for the replies.
I havent had a chance to test run it for towing. had issues with aged sludge in oil and belts snapping so i need to do the routine refresh work first.
The driveability thus far though was great although the 0-60 time was somewhere next year lol.
I have stock tires and stock setup for engine.
As for towing im looking at short to medium range, mostly flat for when im towing the car (vette is 3300 lbs plus whatever a trailer weighs)
Most of the stuff being hauled will be in the bed or on a short trailer. Mostly larger parts but nothing to exceed a ton or anything like that.
I am immune to emission inspection where I am at.
Right now I had to replace the smog pump because the original has seized and after trying to put it in, id have to shim the alternator cuz the pump is half inch longer than original.
Can i delete and plug the Smog (A.I.R) pump and lines without affecting the EGR?
I know it shortens cat life but the cat and rest of the exhaust needs work anyways.
Im not familiar with fords at all.
Would I be shooting myself in the foot efficiency wise if i replace carb with the offenhauser intake and 4bbl 390cfm car and use the hedman headers w/o cam and EGR delete or am i better off with the stock setup and 1bbl carb?
The idea is to not make this too much of a project and remain as cheap as possible. Ill prob see 2000 miles per year on this truck.
thanks for the replies.
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