It blows the fuse when the key is turned on shifter in park. The fuse is already blown when you shift to manual 2, but it does not set the trans malfunction light in manual 2. There is no connection to the reverse circuit from the trs in park, but the schematic is just the reverse circuit (1 wire). The trs has 9 wires. The short is going to be on one of the signal wires that has power when the Trs is in Park. That’s why I need the schematic for the trans harness. I am going to see if I can find a repair manual today that has it. Thanks

I don’t know if any of the trs wires goes over to the passenger side plug on the transmission, but if they do then the plastic connector inside the pan on the valve body could be shorting out. The hunt is on for the schematic. I found one other post online where someone had the same symptoms on the same model truck after putting in a used low mileage trans. There were only a few replies and no resolution was posted. Doesn’t mean anything for certain, but it makes me think it’s probably an external harness short.

Being #14 fails with the ignition cycled to On, with no reverse position selected,, I’d lean to a direction for what’s powered On without any shift select.
That would be PCV heater, ABS Moule, AC HP switch, Deactivator switch, DRL (which isn’t optioned)
Some of which you’ve already unplugged/isolated.
On your first post you mentioned Brake/ABS lamp steady On, if the above potentials have be eliminated, you might have look at the ABS since it would be one of the last loads or potential shorts for #14

If the fuse was popping with Reverse selected, then as a test you could try removing the DTRs pin #11 (DG-YE) from the connector body and reinstall,, it would remove the Rev lamp/harness, Park Aid, EC Mirror, and the Trailer Tow Relay from the diagnostic table If there was a fault there.. If the fuse held, the issues points in that direction, if it still popped, then it would point to the items below...

PCV heat, AC HP, DRL, Deac, and ABS share a voltage input or power distribution splice ‘pre’ the DTRs meaning no reverse selection would be needed to pop the 14 if there were a component or circuit fail/short

Hayapower, since the abs and the other sensors share a power distribution pre trs, if there were a short in any of there circuits wouldn’t they still blow 14 even with the trs unplugged?

I’ll send the trans control Schematics to your email

Yes,, 14 would still blow with the DTRs disconnect

Thanks. I’ll be looking for them.

Hayapower, thank you very much for the schematics. Please check this and see if it sounds right. The GY-RD wire in the DTS is the return signal wire. It connects the circuit from the 4 pcm slots (TR1, TR2, TR3A, TR4) to the pcm signal return slot. This wire also connects to the engine electronic controls, both speed sensors, and the transmission. I am going to unplug the transmission plug and both speed sensors. If it still blows 14 the short should be on one of the 4 signal wires from the dts to the pcm, or in the electronic engine controls (whatever that is). I’ll post when I have checked this. Thanks again.

Ok, with the passenger side trans plug unplugged, and both speed sensors unplugged, fuse 14 still blew when the key was turned on. I think that the next logical step would be to get a 10 amp breaker to install in 14. I’ve blown about 10 fuses. After I install the breaker I’m going to try plugging everything back in and then turn the key on. It will trip the breaker but after I shift to R I will try to reset it. If it blows I’ll go to N and try again and so on. If it’s one of the 4 wires to the pcm shorted out, the process of elemination should find it. Any other ideas are welcome.