I have a driver side rear axle seal leaking on my '01 F150 Sport and am going to replace it. I searched the forum for a "HOW TO" thread on this subject......did not find one. Been a few years since I have done this and just wondered if anyone could provide some input....any special tools needed ?......any tricks to this.....etc...?

 

No real special tools needed, but you'll need to remove the diff cover, then the pinion lock bolt and pinion shaft.. Then slide the axle inward and remove the 'C' clip retainer.. Whats the 'axle code' on the VCL (vehicle certification label) in the door jamb? I can send you some info on the job..

Is that your Mav in your user pic?

 

Thanks for the reply...and thanks for the offer to send more information. Axle code on the tag is 19. This is a 4.2 V6, 5spd, rear disc brakes,think it is just standard gear, maybe 3:55. Will I need a new seal for the differential cover ?

As you can see, I'm sick with the Fords..... The 74 Mav is mine, if you get me going on it, I can't stop.....80,000 miles...all original 302 automatic....original Medium Lime Yellow paint. Wheels were not original, got the original wheels and wheel covers in the garage. Just got a 72 grabber hood, 72 high back buckets to recover and sport mirrors for it. It's clean as a pin, no rust ever, West coast car. I need to fixa few things on it as well......how is your memory for Maverick troubleshooting?

thanks in advance for the help with the axle seal, I really appreciate it.......Dale

 

Axle is a 3.55 Non Limited Slip.. You won't need a cover gasket since most are now sealed with silicone sealers.. I use the gray,, low odor, heavy bodied, quick cure and and a tenacious seal.. Be sure to check the housing vent since it can cause seal leaks if plugged.. Check the bearing running area on the axle shaft once removed..The seal can be pulled with a slide hammer, seal puller, or you can improvise the pull by drilling a small hole (1/8") inthe sealface out closer to theO/D (careful not to go too deep with the bearing behind the seal) and threading in a #10 sheet metal screwand then use a lever to apply the pulling torque.. May need to repeat accross the seal, clean the axle tube/seal bore of any debris.. I can send you some illustrations, and if you have any questions you can post them here if you like..

If you get a chance,, post some larger images of the Maverick.. Whats the Maverick need?

 

Thanks for the information on the axle seal for my truck.........I'll have to look into posting some Maverick Pics on this forum.

The Maverick needs........some work on the transmission (C4)......it slips (flares)when it shifts out of first, seems to go right to Drive. Hits all three gears fine if shifted manually. Have not checked the modulator valve yet, or any vacuum lines to tranny.

It also has factory air and is stuck in defrost position. Will not shift to dash vents or to the floor. Since it is in the defrost position,when I turn the fan on, the compressor kicks in. [/align][/align]Several vacuum lines disconnected,plugged and just laying there on the intake.........may have something to do with both of these problems ??? [/align]

 

I have a question about this, as my hands are loaded with greese and in the middle of this job. it's an 2000 Expedition 2wd 4.6

My question is simple, do I need to replace the bearings? The RR seal is shot, so I am redoing the back brakes and the sealS. There is no noticable wear, no shavings...all looks good. I was thinking no, but wanted ur opinion.

I also goofed up. When I pulled the C clip out, the diff gears were removed. As I read in my book, it said to bolt it back up so that wouldn't happen. I haven't looked at them to see if there is a notch to realign.....but it wouildn't seem like a big deal as all the teeth / pinion are exactly the same....what do I know.....Thanks for the help! James

 

Hi James..

Welcome to the site..

Generally if the bearing is going south it'll show up on the bearings running surface on the axle.. If the surface looks ok without any pitting, scaring, surface failure and/or noticable edge wear then you should be fine.. If there is damage, there is an 'axle saver' bearing assembly that re locates the seal/bearing a bit so you can reuse the axle over a replacement.. If when removing the differential pinion shaft, or turning the carrier you rotated the the gears on out, just rotate them back into position..

 

Thanks, I actually am back to the site. I was a member a while ago and sorta forgot about the place so I had to re-signup!

So I thought about the axle savers, but for the milage on this thing and the really good condition of the axles I just replaced the seals with Moter Craft. I also got the gears back into place after messing with it for a little bit. Put a little bearing greese on the ....crush washer, i guess to hold it in place. Finally did the brakes. The gasket sealent is the Grey, I cleaned the heck out of both surfaces and applied it. I have let it sit overnight and am about to go add the 75-140 Synthetic. As for the additive, the book calls for 4 oz. there comes I think 8 or 10 with the stuff I got (Napa). I can't imagine too much would hurt..... I just did the rear end on my other truck and it called for 8. Seems to me not to be that big of a deal. Last night the wife told me Jiffy Lube wanted 350 to replace the seal. I simply asked was that for one seal or two, she said, just one. I laughed and said that's why Jiffy Lube isn't doing the job. What's an extra 10 minutes and 13 bucks worth? She told me the guy said of the seal wasn't leaking it didn't need to be changed.......The brilliance these people have is laughable. Thanks again.

 

Both seals would be a must..

Kind'a like the old saying,, Never enough time to do it right, but always enough time (and money) to do it over!

And,, Welcome back..