shift kit
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 717
From: Colorado, near Denver
By 1994, the E4OD had evolved to the point where the biggest problem was what it always was with this transmission till when it ended produrtion.
It's a hydraulic nightmare.
That being said, it would help to now what the primary intended use of this truck is going to be. If it's for hauling, that will require a slightly different setup then for racing, etc.
If it's going to be used for hauling, I would recommend the Shift-go shift kit. Most all these kits have the accumulator springs and required hardware that will change around the line pressures (that's what the trick seat for the press. reg. valve in the pump is for), and the springs for the accumulators and drills for the seperator plate. They should also (and this is really important in the 4r100) have the sprial snap ring for the coast clutch, which when it came apart in the E4OD never did much harm, but it destroyed the 4R100.
Also, in any of these trannies, please use a multiplate torque convertor that has a higher stall speed (you don't have to go wild; the multiplate TCC really helps the longevity of this trans immensely).
The other thing is to get the cooler to actually do something other then just cirulate oil. There are systems that take the rear checkvalve out (a great beginning), and then you can add a nice, as large as the truck can take auxillary oil to air cooler. That will drop the temp of the oil considerably (use it to water cool the atf first, then air cool it) and really help the life of the atf and transmission.
There is something else to consider, and really think about this. The 4R100 is basically the same transmission; the frictions are the same, but the drums are stamped steel instead of cast iron. This helps the spinning parts to stay lighter, which will help if you have a more powerful engine that likes to rev. It helps keep the centrifugal force lower, which imposes a speed limit on just how fast everything can rev, though I don't think you'd reach that limit with a 5.0L.
If you need more info, please write back.
It's a hydraulic nightmare.
That being said, it would help to now what the primary intended use of this truck is going to be. If it's for hauling, that will require a slightly different setup then for racing, etc.
If it's going to be used for hauling, I would recommend the Shift-go shift kit. Most all these kits have the accumulator springs and required hardware that will change around the line pressures (that's what the trick seat for the press. reg. valve in the pump is for), and the springs for the accumulators and drills for the seperator plate. They should also (and this is really important in the 4r100) have the sprial snap ring for the coast clutch, which when it came apart in the E4OD never did much harm, but it destroyed the 4R100.
Also, in any of these trannies, please use a multiplate torque convertor that has a higher stall speed (you don't have to go wild; the multiplate TCC really helps the longevity of this trans immensely).
The other thing is to get the cooler to actually do something other then just cirulate oil. There are systems that take the rear checkvalve out (a great beginning), and then you can add a nice, as large as the truck can take auxillary oil to air cooler. That will drop the temp of the oil considerably (use it to water cool the atf first, then air cool it) and really help the life of the atf and transmission.
There is something else to consider, and really think about this. The 4R100 is basically the same transmission; the frictions are the same, but the drums are stamped steel instead of cast iron. This helps the spinning parts to stay lighter, which will help if you have a more powerful engine that likes to rev. It helps keep the centrifugal force lower, which imposes a speed limit on just how fast everything can rev, though I don't think you'd reach that limit with a 5.0L.
If you need more info, please write back.
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