Ford F-150 The entry level full size truck from Ford, one of America's best selling for decades.

thermostat

  #1  
Old 01-28-2005, 12:48 AM
dch
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Default thermostat

hiya kids, i have a 1990 f-150 4x4 with the classic 4.0 liter i-6. i went to change my thermostat the other day and ran into a little snafu. i let both bolts soak with wd-40 before starting but the upper stud still snapped off. the other broke free. does anyone know if the upper stud is threaded into the block or is a bolt coming through. i think i have enough left to go ahead and pull the thermo housing and get a grip on it, but don't want to twisting on it if it isn't going to ocme out.

cheers
 
  #2  
Old 01-28-2005, 12:50 PM
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Default RE: thermostat

threaded into the block
 
  #3  
Old 01-28-2005, 10:50 PM
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Default RE: thermostat

I think sears has a tool kit for problems like yours. you drill a small hole into the remaining stud then thread in this bit with a hex nut shaped head counter-clockwise and it would pull what ever out. Also, how cold is it where you are at? use tons of bust-a-nut and warm the area you are working on, the colder it is the harder it will be to get out.
 
  #4  
Old 01-29-2005, 11:40 AM
dch
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Default RE: thermostat

thanks for the info, my ford dealer confirmend your reports that the stud is threaded on both ends. once the temp levels off i will attempt to back it out. fortunately the housing is so rusted on i am not experiencing any leakage.

next questions
anyone experience the sagging left rear? have installed new shock going for the leaf next.

innacurate fuel readings? i can put 10 bucks in get 1/2 tank and drive 30-40 miles and have an empty reading on guage then drive 2 more days on empty. an reccomedations other than replacing the tank, float, and sending unit?

cheers
 
  #5  
Old 01-31-2005, 09:08 PM
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 735
Default RE: thermostat

Dch,
First, try taking the broken stud off with a pair of vise grips, if it will not come off, then don't try any stud removing tool. The stud maybe corroded into place and nothings going to get it out. The screw removing tool, if it breaks, will cause you more trouble. They are good when the screw head breaks and the threads are good, but they are not good if the threads are corroded, cross threaded, or galled. If this is the case, cut it flush to the head, and then drill a small hole directly in the middle to the stud. Go bigger and bigger as you can, until you’re at the size needed to retap the hole. If it is too weak for that then you will have to drill even a bigger hole and add a helia coil.

For the sagging, it could be the leaf spring, but before replacing it, I'd look very closely at all the brackets to that leaf, axle, and the frame.

And last, I'd beat it’s the sending unit. The sending unit is like a resistor with a connector on it and it sometime wears out. Usually only because the vehicle doesn't get driven for a long time and rust builds in the tank
 
  #6  
Old 02-01-2005, 11:03 AM
dch
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Default RE: thermostat

thanks for the info, the stud did snap about 1/2 way in the housing so i think if i beat the housing off i will have enought to get the grips on. i figured i would hose it with penetrator and try that first.

as far as the sag goes, i have looked at the leaf springs and none appear to be broken. do you think replacing the bushings and ubolt brackets could help? i'll need a gallon of wd down there for sure.

i had the same fuel problems on the 95 i traded for this 90. the tanks read off. i had one replaced because it had a hole it the top where the bracket strap went over it. my normal garage was scared of the sending unit problem. apparently the last time they tried to work on a tank they dropped it and somehow burned down the whole garage. so with it as with the 90 i have made it a habit of keeping gas in both tanks just in case.
 
  #7  
Old 02-01-2005, 08:07 PM
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Default RE: thermostat

Becareful taking the house off if your going to be reuseing it. If there is still part of the stud left, I'd try grinding six side and use an old socket. Make it a tight fit and with a hammer tap it on. If it was moving out then you might have a chance on getting it out without tap the treads.

If things are badly rust down there you will propable need to a torch and replace what ever hardware you need.

It a dual tank truck and both tank don't work. I think you'll need to take it to a shop that has a good electric troubleshooter.
 
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