Sometimes when trying to start in Park, the engine grinds and bumps trying to turn over, similar to an engine out of time, but it won't turn over properly. It's not the starter or battery or grounding. If I would let it sit for approx. 1/2 hour it would start. I finally figured out that if I drop it into Neutral it will turn over properly and start. It's an auto xmission.

 

Cold engine in P, crank no start or no crank no start?
Cold engine in N, crank no start or no crank no start?
Warm engine in P, crank no start or no crank no start?
Warm engine in N, crank no start or no crank no start?

Please be specific in all 4 situations.

 

Cold engine in Park.....crank and start.
Cold engine in N.....crank and start
Warm engine in P........sometimes it trys to crank(as I described in original post) and will not turn over properly so no start.
Warm engine in N....when what happens above(not cranking properly in Park) then I put it in Neutral, it starts properly.

 

Locate C1073 above. If the FRP sensor is found to be bad you have to remove the valve cover to replace it.
You can have multiple issues so let's start at the FRP.
While engine is warm and crank no start, don't crank it further, stop it and immediately remove the key, then disconnect just the electrical connector of the FRP sensor, do this quickly, and start it, does it start this way? If it does you very likely have a bad FRP sensor, then you have to remove the valve cover to replace it as shown below. Don't worry about the CEL when FRP connector is unplugged, the CEL will go away when it's plugged back in. For diagnostic purpose it's safe to unplug it, your PCM will use the factory default pressure rather than from the FRP sensor itself (especially if it's found to be bad).
Do you have a scanner that can read live data so you can have it plugged in while monitoring the FRP and see what pressure you get?




The other issue could be a shifter linkage. First thing look at your instrument cluster, the PRND12 do they align perfectly center or it's a little bit off center? It can also be the problem at the range sensor and if that's the case you can be thrown a DTC but not necessary trigger a CEL, you might need a capable scanner like (Foxwell NT510 Elite w/ Ford) or code + live data reader like (OBDLink MX+) to retrieve that.

 

OK thanks...I'll give that a try. It might be awhile as I don't drive the truck much. I sure appreciate the input.

 

Look at the connector C1073 diagram, the very last one I submitted previously.
1) You need to locate pin 1 (blue/brown) wire and use back probe pin and insert into where pin 1 is (harness side) without disconnecting the connector. If you don't have back probe kit and don't plan to use it often, just get the cheapest one from harbor freight.
2) Set your voltmeter dial to 20V and measure voltage, red to the back probe wire coming from pin 1, black to a good ground source
3) KOEO (key on engine off), when your truck is stationary you expect 0.50V, start it up and promptly read the measurement at idle you expect 1.25V (@ 5000 psi). If the pressure drops or not anywhere near 5000 like 3000 then there could be a problem with the high pressure fuel pump itself as well. Check the FRP first and don't worry about the fuel pump for now.

You can do 2 tests, one to cold and the other to warm engine.