2004 F250 5.4l Shudder @ 35mph/1500RPM
 

310,000 miles, 4 door short bed, 4WD, automatic 5.4l gas engine. This truck has been a workhorse and have had very little trouble out of The Beast. 2 months ago I replaced the fuel pump with an Advance Auto Delphi Fuel Pump Module Assembly: With Float Arm, Seal, Clips. The fuel indicator did not work so 2 weeks ago I exchanged to pump. The fuel gage shows 3/4 of a tank when full and the fuel light comes on at 2.5 gallons. I can live with that. Since the initial fuel pump replacement, I have had a shudder at various speeds and RPMs. Codes were Cylinder 3 misfire and Bank 1 lean. I replaced Bank 1 upstream o2 sensor and coils. Then I got a Bank 2 lean and Cylinder 8 misfire. Replaced the Bank 2 o2 sensor and MAF sensor. #8 coil was tight but I reseated it anyway and cleared the codes. Still have the shudder and I can feel a slight misfire when sitting in the truck stopped. Frustration has set in so if anyone can offer some help, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

You either replace all coils and plugs at the same time for the peace of mind or you swap (don't replace) the coils between 3 and 4 or 8 with 6. If the misfire follows from 8 to 6 then you replace the coil, if not, you replace the plug at # 8, this is the rule of thumb you should know when your truck has 310k already.
Show us the DTCs you received and some live data parameter then we start from there. It's better if you have OBDLink MX+ than a generic reader so you can see all possible Ford's specific PIDs and DTCs using MX+.

Thank you for the reply. After 16 miles, it now has P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2 and P0308 Cylinder 8 misfire. CEL is not flashing. Plugs were replaced in August with NGKs. Coils were replaced 3 weeks ago with STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS FD503K8 because they have a lifetime warranty. Decided to swap coils and plugs between 5 & 8 and found coolant on the coil boot and around the plug. I will check fuel pressure when I get home. Is the coolant due to a cracked part? TIA!

Had a similar situation with a 2005. My brother reported that he thought the transmission was going out - I had driven the vehicle and knew exactly what it was, being a Ford guy/former mechanic. It had a zero-to-60 that you could time with a calendar, majorly lacking on power.
I replaced all of the spark plugs with FoMoCo plugs and the coils.
He comes over to pick it up, and was used to mashing on the go pedal because it had gotten that bad; he immediately does a donut in the parking lot.
FordTechMakuloco on YouTube has a lot of great videos about the Ford engines; he talks about the importance of using FoMoCo parts and gives the modern part numbers for replacement - and basically, get them from a Ford Dealer or trusted parts place because there is a lot of fakes out there. I agree with his assessment that Ford engines are misunderstood; taking care of them with OEM parts and following all of the TSB's for repairs will ensure long engine life along with frequent oil changes. Subarus are the same way; use only OEM parts.
Regarding your fuel sender issue, there are a few tank options so you have to ensure you get the correct one for the tank that you have - I've gone into the local parts store and received the wrong one before, but at the Ford Stealership, though it cost twice as much, I got the correct part the first time.

Those of us that have been burned with imported parts have learned to use OEM when possible.

There are good aftermarket suppliers, but a lot of the crap purchased on line is just that. It is easier , but you get what you pay for.

There are very few simple fixes and when we replace one bad part with another, we start asking for help never considering the new parts are JUNK.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e09083bb0a.jpg
For P0308 check Pinpoint-HD.pdf below. You'll be asked to check H and Z as well.
P0174 check Pinpoint-HA.pdf below. Also check DC, HB and A.

both have coolant on them

You should also remove (no swapping just remove) # 1 and # 4 and see if any coolant there as well. As you should know by now you probably have a bad intake manifold gasket. If you have leaks near the heater hose then your # 5 shouldn't have coolant there.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...23a2d3a563.jpg
If you have internal leak after pressure test check the intake_manifold pdf below.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...09ef0214ed.jpg

Can we ask, what did you purchase when you purchased the gaskets ? There is a reason we ask this very important question.