Can anyone tell me how many amps should be reading at the 7 way plug if you put it on the electronic brake tab,My problem is when I have my trailer plugged in and I can have the gain set to 10 and the trailer still seems to be pushing me,my ford dealer just put a new controller in and still no luck any advice on what to try. Thanks in advance

 

you can check your power with a test light the higher your gain the brighter the light will be. also you may have a trailer brake adjustment problem.

 

When i jacked uo the trailer and checked the brakes they just barely rub and from what others have said sounds about how they should be,when we tested for amps we were only getting 3amps with the gain set at 10 and pressing the brake.when we used the manual slide we got 13amps.

 

Don't confuse the magnet drag sound as they 'brush' the drum face with a spec adjusted drum brake.. The electric brakes work their best if regularly adjusted..

 

The brakes work but only when you use the manual slide to activate.If you have the gain set to 10 the brakes should be locking up or putting enough drag on the camper to even slow the truck but thats not the case.A rv dealer told me to check to see if the brake sensor wire was connected,he was telling me that they had a different person with a similar problem and that that not being connected was why.Any idea where to look for that connection?

 

Whats the year/build date of your truck?

Whats the exact 'voltage' you read out of the trailer adapter without the trailer connected and the the slider/gain set at 10?

 

The truck is a 2006 f-250 v-10,and when we put the slide on for the brakes it reads 13 at the 7way plug and when apply the brakes it only comes up at 3.

 

The integrated TBC(trailer brake controller) system is a 'bit' different from the standard brake controller, in that it works on the trucks Controller Area Network (CAN) and 'interfaces' with the instrument cluster, PCM, ABS Module as inputs to the TBC,, and with the brake pressure transducer mounted out on the master cylinder as the 'primary input' for driver intent.. It's a 'variable' braking control system.. With the gain set at '10' and the slider moved over fully, you should see 'greater' that 10-12V, (05's were a split year that's why I asked the build date for an output of 1-2 volts under the same requirements) but with the calculated input/out from the instrument cluster/PCM/ABS you won't see a voltage that matches the slider/high gaincontrol while stationary.. Depending on speed and module calculated values and driver intent for braking demand, the TBC will select the 'greater' of the two possible inputs (slider/gain contol over presets/calculated) for trailer brake application.. The ABS strategy will be corrected as well to keep the trailer and truck from a lock condition..There's no brake sensor wire, and as long as the trailer 'connectionindicator' and gain display are green then the TBC has detected the trailer..

Have you tried another trailer with your truck for TBC system function? or another truck/controller against your trailer to prove out the brake application?

 

So does anyone know if the batteries on a camper need to be on in order for electric brakes to work,my camper has a battery disconnect and just wondering if that would cause any problems.

 

The house batteries? No.. Also, the 'break way' battery is isolated from the tow vehicle and traileras well, other than most will have a small built in charger (usually in the break away battery box) that keeps the trailers break away battery charged through the tow vehicle/battery charge relay.. Once the cable and pin are pulled loose from the switch, the small battery energizes the brake magnets for the emergency stop..