My 2005 Five Hundred's throttle body had been throwing codes of P2104/P2111 - I took it off, scrubbed the crap out of it - it was very dirty. After replacing, the fault engine shutdown was less frequent, but still happening. I bought a used one that worked for one short drive, after that it faulted and would not clear the error. My old one after a fault error, I could restart the car and go as normal for days often w/o an issue. The replacement not only will not clear the fault, but it is throwing codes of P2104, P2111, and P2112.

P2111 is stuck open
P2112 is stuck closed

Never thought they'd happen at the same time. Anyone have thoughts why both codes would throw at the same time?

I've tried relearning, but no luck. Car will not run at this time.

Thank you

 

Something you might try,

Have someone inside your vehicle depress the throttle pedal slowly all the way down with the key on and observe if you see the throttle plate stick in the full open position
and the same with the full closed position. The plate could be binding or you just might need to do a recalibration which is what you just did when checking it.
Clear the codes and see if they return after the recalibration.

 

hanky - thanks for the response.

Yesterday my battery died, so I took it out to charge it overnight. That should clear all the electronics knowledge in the car and require a recalibration for the throttle, correct?

Today, about the time you probably sent this, I put the battery back in, hooked up the AutoLink and received P2104/P2111 codes again. It is a very rough idle too. I took the intake off the throttle body and had my oldest push the gas pedal down all the way. The plate didn't budge.

Interestingly, when the car eventually stalled out, the plate flew open all the way. (argh....)

My previous TB, I would get the engine fault and it would stall out. I could then restart the engine and drive on - sometimes for days before it happened again.
The one I purchased, It will not clear the engine fault and rough idles and I cannot drive it at all. I'm probably going to put the old one back on for better performance.

So, in reading, I know there is no cabling from the throttle to the gas pedal since it is all electronic now. A friend suggested that the sensor could be bad.... outside of that, is there anything else that would cause this issue?

/banging my head

 

There are 2 pedal position sensors , it is possible the sensors are not getting full info (voltage available ) in order to function as required. Depending on where you purchased the replacement may involve a defective part.

 

hanky - thank you very much! I appreciate the additional insight.

 

I removed the replacement TB today and put my old one back in.
Idle is back where it should be - haven't driven it yet, but know at some point it would error out.

In the Autel AutoLink, watching live data, how can I find what the expected #s should be for TP(%), TP_R, and TP_B?

Been searching the Internet and get manuals, but no baseline info.

Thanks

 

At this point I would suggest you watch the short and long term fuel trim.numbers..
There should be throttle position % numbers for both sensors. Remember what they are when the engine is running right and look to see if they change when it stalls.
No need to get into a lot of not important info when the codes are directing you to the throttle body. Those sensors should work opposite of one another. The reading of one goes up while the reading of the other goes down. That is the way they are supposed to work.