I have a 2013 ford edge se that did not come with a back up camera, after running an aftermarket camera and being unsatisfied on how it looked i went to a junkyard and bought the camera and the plastic bracket and plugs for the hatchback. so now im to the point where its all put together but i have a 6 pin plug pigtail that needs to convert to the aftermarket rca cable (thats cut as a pig tail)that is ran to the front of the car. the colors are not the same and I'm striking out looking online. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The yellow only rca cable is called composite video. You will need that to take care pin 3 and 4. You still need pin 1 to your reverse trigger, pin 5 to ground and pin 6 to another ground point, you just don't need to wire pin 2. I assume you have aftermarket head unit. Picking the other ground point for pin 6 can be tricky, you just need to find one with less interference without a oscilloscope.

Also have a look how to DIY the cable at: https://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/D...onnect-Cables/

 

yes its going to an aftermarket head unit, and the composite video wire is where im getting hung up. i can find the diagram of the cable but i haven't seen where it shows two grounds. the ground from the plug is bare, even though most of the time it shows the black wire as ground. my colors are not seeming to match up to anything, which is proably due to trying to adapt it together.

 

When you cut one end of the composite video cable (yellow), you should see 1 red 1 black and bunch of stranded wires for the shield, you twist all those stranded wires together.

Per the diagram I attached previously (which I found it somewhere from google) if you look at pin 6, and because you don't have the module (130-2/130-3) you need to bypass that.
You run a new ground wire (for shield) from pin 6, you run another new ground wire from a good ground point because the shield needs to be terminated at somewhere whether or not you have the module, both wires connect to the stranded wires that you twisted together from the yellow cable. Make sure no exposed stranded wires so don't forget to put all those stranded wires into heat shrink tube.
Please do more research yourself on how to get pin 6 to work, I don't want to take the blame if you damage your camera.

For the power source I recommend running a relay for that.First find out if the reverse trigger is positive or negative for your head unit.
85 - to ground (do not use the same ground from reverse light)
86 - to reverse light positive
30 - to a fused 12v power (you can use add-a-circuit adapter)
87 - to pin 1 of your camera connector

 

where are the numbers your referencing? ( 85,86,30,87) ive highlighted a range of wires but they have not showed me what wire or where they are located. honestly i have been trying to do research on it but have been striking out, you sharing knowledge has been the best luck i have recieved so far, so thankyou so much.

 

here are the colors i have

 

If you look at the original diagram you can see:
Pin 1(GN/VT -> BK-RD)?
Pin 2 (WH -> GY-VT)
Pin 3 (BK -> BN-VT)
Pin 4 (RD -> WH-GN)
Pin 5 (BK/BU -> BK-VT)
Pin 6 (Shield) BK-GY?

Pin 2 to 5 are good, they all match up, only left over is pin 1, so it can be BK-RD or BK-GY.

What do you mean your composite video cable has yellow/white/red/black/pink/green?
When you cut the yellow cable of the rca there should be two insulated wires, black and red, and bunch of untwisted bare stranded wires.

Pin 1:
For the power source (pin 1) you don't need to use F34 (10A), you can use "add-a-circuit" adapter. Like mentioned previously you should use a relay and the adapter. Example: Then you can refer to the 85/86/87/30 that I mentioned previously.

Pin 5:
The diagram shows G301 ground point, my alldata software only covers any car up to 2008 so I can't tell you where that is. The circuit function shows pillar B left, it doesn't have to be the exact location, you can use another ground

Pin 6:
That's for the shield. The Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM) which you don't have, is fine, just bypass it. But you do need to ground the shield to another ground point and terminate it there to create a ground loop. It's not just signal interference that may cause poor video signal, I do believe this shield needs to be grounded for the camera to function. Diagram shows G205 so find another good ground source.

Pin 3 and pin 4 already mentioned previously.

Pin 2:
Not 100% sure whether you need it or not. It looks like that's not needed because you are connecting OEM camera to non-OEM aftermarket head unit, eonon, joying or xtrons doesn't matter.
Just like F29 fuse, you don't need to hook that up because you don't have APIM module, even if you do have APIM you need to bypass it. You are connecting the OEM camera directly to your HU so some of the stuffs on the diagram do not apply to your setup.

 

I have aftermarket wiring that was ran for an aftermarket camera. Now I’m trying to use an oem camera. This picture shows the aftermarket wiring that is on the tailgate side of the hatch. I will include both ends as well

This one shows the oem plug to camera and the 6 wires on a pigtail going to the aftermarket wiring pigtail plug

 

I see the problem now. The cable from your old camera doesn't look to be compatible with OEM camera.
When you have the OEM camera and its pigtail but not the whole harness and you try to convert (hack) it to make it work, the OEM way, the cable from your old camera just don't seem to work, you need to get new cable and rerun it. Additionally, the OEM harness is useless to you when you Edge doesn't have the APIM module it might be possible to program the module in order to communicate with the ECU. Even if you do have APIM you still have to code it (to enable or disable camera feature at dealer's level). So it's possible to make the OEM camera to work with your aftermarket HU but you will need the correct video cable to begin with.

Have a look at this camera on amazon: and look at the 5th pic for the wiring. This type is more friendly to aftermarket HU. If you care more on the mounting, that page shows the oem style mounting.
I don't see any reason you insist to stick with the OEM camera when it was meant for OEM direct replacement which your car never came with. If I were you I would just give that Amazon camera a try, free return if it doesn't mount the OEM way you wanted it to be.

 

yes sir that is exactly right. I was just hoping for a better picture and was not aware of the programming that would have to be done. I will look into the camera and see if I cant get one that is better than the one I have, thankyou for all your help and your knowledge.