hi new here!

i had a squeek coming from the engine this morning when i was warming it up......sounded like a belt/pulley.....when i went to pull away i got maybe a couple feet and it stalled......started right up, and was on my way no problems......just a little earlier.....same exact thing.......noise goes away once warmed up and doesnt stall again when warmed up.......all my google searches say it might be the camshaft position sensor and or synchronizor?



2 questions since my mechanic cant get me in til Thursday
-rough estimate on price/labor of said fix?
-is it safe to drive until thursday.....its my only vehicle and i drive 45min to and from work each day?



thanx
Corey

 

Should be able to drive it for that long. May have a few stalls, but it should start right back up as you've already experienced. A brand new CARDONE or DORMAN cam synchronizer w/position sensor is about $65 from Autozone with the lifetime warranty (I went with the DORMAN for my 04). Repair time is about 2 hours if the mechanic is slow. The power steering pump needs to be unbolted (no need to disconnect the P/S lines) and moved out of the way. Since the cooling system needs to be drained a bit to remove the bypass cooling tube that interferes with the replacement, if you haven't had your cooling system flushed for quite some time, now would be the time to do a full cooling system flush. Have the system refilled with "NEW", not recycled antifreeze.

 

Thank you so much, feel much better now.....and will do about the flush!


Had no stalls at all on the way to work or home.....once it warms up seems to be good

 

So my mechanic, who I do have faith in....says he can't figure out noise and don't know what a synchronizer is......I cannot do this myself.....what's my 2nd option? Lol

 

Only suggestion I have would be to either find another mechanic/shop that can do the job at a reasonable price, or actually do the job yourself. Here's my directions.

It's actually not that difficult. It took me about 2 hours to do mine start to finish. The new cardone unit (part #84-S2601) was $10 more than a rebuilt unit and it includes the cam position sensor.

1. Drain the cooling system down
2. Remove serpentine belt out of the way.
3. Unbolt the P/S pump and move over out of the way.
4. Remove coolant tube that Ford put just in the way of removing the cam synchronizer.
5. Remove the cam position sensor. (mark the old cam synchronizer housing and the engine block with your favorite color sharpie.)
6. Put a mark on the new cam synchronizer in the same place as the old one.
7. Put the new unit in so that the mark on the new unit lines up with the mark on the block (no need for the sensor install tool with the marks).
8. Tighten the new unit down and install the new sensor.
9. You may need to put a new O-Ring gasket on the coolant tube, I just used some copper-plus silicone and reused the old o-ring.
10. Put everything back together and top your cooling system off.

Take your time, you should be fine.

 

I have little faith in myself....I will see if I can find someone to help me....just ordered the part


Thanx again....will let you know how it goes



Since you seem to be familiar with the freestar......what would cause my front rotors to warp.....seems to happen like every 4 months where my steering shakes....always ends up being a warped rotor?!?!

 

Good luck on doing the job. Take pictures if you need to for reassembly and just take your time. You'll get it.

As far as warping rotors, I was having the same issue with mine for quite a while a few years back. Even when using rotors from Ford. They would just eventually warp. I ended up buying a set of Raybestos #680190 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotors for the front. Problem has not returned since. Since I'm in the salt belt, I also disassemble my front and rear brakes every spring and fall since they are prone to having the slider pins crud up causing the calipers not to operate correctly (not relax after breaking). Calipers hanging up are another cause for rotors to warp due to excessive heat

 

So after 3 days, $200 and no results, I took back my 2004,4.2L van. Had it diagnosed with cam syncro dying. Mechanic could not get heater tube released from the water pump to get syncro out. Soaked it. No good. He said he never saw one this bad. What can I do to get this out? Can I put heat to the area and try that way? Does anyone have advise? Need fixed ASAP. thanks in advance.

 

The tube is steel with and O-Ring. The tube is probably corroded into its hole. Most of the corrosion will be below the O-Ring, so no solvent will get past the O-Ring to do any good. Should be able to put heat to it, just watch out for the surrounding components. Mine wasn't too bad as I replace my coolant every 4 years or 50,000 miles. So I tend to have less Bi-Metal electrolysis. You will most likely need a new O-Ring. I reused mine, but also put a coat of Copper PLUS silicone sealant on the O-Ring and tube mating surface before reinstalling. Good luck as Ford wants $40 for a new tube, but it should also come with a new O-Ring installed on it. Good luck.

 

So I have decided to modify the steel tube by cutting out the area that interferes with getting out the syncro. I will only cut out as much as needed and clamp on a rubber hose($10). Ford wants $145 for my tube and Rock auto wants $75. If I destroy anything trying to get the tube out, it will be crazy expensive to replace the water pump, etc. If this does not work, then expensive it is. I will try to post a pic when done. Wish me luck.