Wow free star and ac
#11
Ok, so picked up the van. $400 installed.
That's the good. Clogged in 3 different places. The previous owner drive with out air for years.
The bad is the back (I see many thread on this) just blow air. Will have to charge me to trouble shoot the back. One of the mechanic said it needs time to cycle since been sitting without air.
Also noticed the seatbelt was cut. Could I swap the 3rd to 2nd row?
Also the rear driver window is stuck in open. Afraid to manually close might break it.
That's the good. Clogged in 3 different places. The previous owner drive with out air for years.
The bad is the back (I see many thread on this) just blow air. Will have to charge me to trouble shoot the back. One of the mechanic said it needs time to cycle since been sitting without air.
Also noticed the seatbelt was cut. Could I swap the 3rd to 2nd row?
Also the rear driver window is stuck in open. Afraid to manually close might break it.
#12
1. "Clogged in 3 different places"
Did they tell you where the clogs were at? The only places I can think of that could ever clog in your system is the front orifice, rear liquid line screen and the rear expansion valve.
2. "One of the mechanic said it needs time to cycle since been sitting without air."
Refrigerant should "CYCLE" thru the system immediately as soon as the compressor engages.
If the system wasn't properly repaired as I previously stated, you looking at more $$$ down the drain and no A/C.
Just saying...
Did they tell you where the clogs were at? The only places I can think of that could ever clog in your system is the front orifice, rear liquid line screen and the rear expansion valve.
2. "One of the mechanic said it needs time to cycle since been sitting without air."
Refrigerant should "CYCLE" thru the system immediately as soon as the compressor engages.
If the system wasn't properly repaired as I previously stated, you looking at more $$$ down the drain and no A/C.
Just saying...
#14
You cannot open the system without first evacuating the system (recovering the refrigerant).
What work was actually done on your A/C system? What parts were actually replaced?
Need this information to help lead you in the right direction. There's more to automotive A/C than just throwing parts at it. If not done properly, you will continue throwing parts ($$$) at it until then.
What work was actually done on your A/C system? What parts were actually replaced?
Need this information to help lead you in the right direction. There's more to automotive A/C than just throwing parts at it. If not done properly, you will continue throwing parts ($$$) at it until then.
#15
He said it was clogged 3 places and pointed out where.
He replaced one tube because the orifice was stuck or rotted inside.
He also replaced the compressor. Returned the old and show receipt of new. Check the compressor looks new. He also said the back was working until i picked it up. I'll have to look at the receipt but that's what I remember he showing me.
Sound like same situation as another thread where he did it several time. That can cost money with keep adding the freon. This doesn't look like a diy as supposed to brake and such or could it?
He replaced one tube because the orifice was stuck or rotted inside.
He also replaced the compressor. Returned the old and show receipt of new. Check the compressor looks new. He also said the back was working until i picked it up. I'll have to look at the receipt but that's what I remember he showing me.
Sound like same situation as another thread where he did it several time. That can cost money with keep adding the freon. This doesn't look like a diy as supposed to brake and such or could it?
#16
If the front orifice was plugged, it was probably plugged with debris from a compressor failure. This debris will also travel to the rear where there is an inline screen before the refrigerant gets to the expansion valve. Since the evaporator is of capillary design (NON-FLUSHABLE), it also should have been replaced with a new unit as it will hold additional debris that will dislodge when the system runs. This will cause the front orifice to plug again and the new compressor to fail from oil starvation (thus voiding the warranty). Any time a system is opened for this type of work, the dryer/receiver should also be replaced. Then when the old compressor, condenser and dryer/receiver were removed and the lines opened up, the front and rear evaporators along with all lines should have been back-flushed with a cleaner. The back flushing of the rear evaporator would take care of any debris caught by the in-line screen. Then everything should be buttoned up, proper amount of oil added to the system (4-6 oz in the new compressor and the remaining oil put into the dryer/receiver. Pressure tested at 200PSI with nitrogen and ensure it held the pressure. Then a vacuum pulled for 1 hour and then ensure that the vacuum holds for 1/2 hour. Then a full refrigerant charge added with pressures monitored.
There's more that I do, but this is how I did mine and do others.
There's more that I do, but this is how I did mine and do others.
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