Can anyone with wiring diagrams look for the likely problem please? All these symptoms started at the same time. Everything was perfect before this:
Everything on the Instrument Panel dead except the flashing anti-theft even when the car is running and the air-bag warning light on. It seems like the controlling circuit for the anti-theft system doesn't think I started the car.
Scan tool shows P2067 - Fuel Level Sensor B Circuit Low
AC compressor clutch won't kick in. All other heat/cooling functions work
Traction control button/indicator not functional.

The car runs great, Radio, windows, mirrors, interior lights, power point, all work fine.

It is a low-milage, garage kept car. I looked at all the wiring harnesses and connectors that are easy to see and didn't see any issues. I checked as many fuses as my old body would allow and the ones I checked were good (+12 on both sides). I specifically checked fuse 10 and 14 (AC/instrument) on the passenger side panel and they both had voltage on both sides.

Any thoughts? If I just had a wiring diagram I am sure I could come up with a few possibilities. I want to sell this car as I no longer drive it as much, so I am looking for an economical fix, but proper.

thanks,

Dainbramage

 

Test all the ground and power pins like: 2, 3, 25 and 26 with the electrical connector removed and not removed. With the connector intact use back probe pins (carefully). Pin 2 you can do a simple continuity test between battery ground terminal. The other 3 you check for voltages accordingly with key in and out depends on which one you are probing. When something is not working globally it's either the ground or the power side, check all the relevant fuses too. Don't pull the fuse, simply probe the 2 tiny pins on top for continuity or use ohmmeter under 1 ohm but non-zero (depends on which DMM with how many decimals you are using).

Don't worry about the SRS and the P2067, they should go away when your IC is fixed.

 

@heiko Thank you so much! That is very helpful. Assuming worse case and troubleshooting leads to the determination that the IC needs to be replacement, I have a question. I don't want to screw up the mileage on my car. How likely am I to screw up reprogramming the IC and kill the odometer reading? I downloaded the As-Built data from Ford for my car assuming that if the IC is dead, I won't be able to retrieve the current programming. I looked in the file and found the data for the IC. Three parameters, the second of which is zero. Just a wild guess that is the odometer reading. I don't want to program that if true. How can I prevent that? I am leaning toward letting the dealership do the repair if you think I will screw it up.

Edit: I realized that I will likely need to use non-factory settings on the IC. Saleen took the car from the factory and added all the aftermarket stuff including changing the faceplate of the speedo for higher top speed. I assume one of the parameters is a conversion factor for pulses -> speed. Here's hoping I can save the IC. If not, I will have to disassemble the new one, change out the faceplates, and reprogram the IC with modified parameters from the As-built values. What a pain. The dealer won't be willing to do this I am sure and Saleen probably doesn't stock the IC. Even if they did, they would probably charge a fortune for it.

 

Instrument Cluster 60-1 to 60-3:
60-1 (below)

60-2 (below)

60-3 (below)

Instrument Illumination 71-1 to 71-2:
71-1 (below)


71-2 (below)


Diagram 60-2 and 71-2, look at the ground point G201 (circuit 1205) above, and the location below:





It looks like you have a bad ground connection somewhere more than a bad cluster itself. Test the hazard switch first. Then go backward and start from G201.
And finally the location of the instrument cluster shown below:


In summary check the following:
1) Locate 60-1 diagram above you need to check F8 (10A), F16 (5A) and F19 (5A) fuses
again, don't pull, just check continuity on all 3 of them.
2) What other components/devices are using/sharing G201, test those. While you are there also check the splice S201, this splice is probably under your radio.
3) If all 3 fuses are good, don't disconnect, use back probe pins and test the connector of your instrument cluster, pin-3 (always on, so key out), pin-25 (key in RUN position) and pin-26 (key in RUN position).
4) Use back probe pin to pin-2 and battery ground post, set your ohmmeter to the lowest setting like 200Ω and observe the resistance reading, next probe pin to pin-2 and G201, also battery ground post to G201, all 3 of them you expect 2 ohm or less.

 

Hi @heiko

Thanks for all the information! I finally had time to work in it this weekend. I followed your advice:
All three fuses were good. I tested them in circuit.
I pulled the Instrument Cluster out part way and pressed on and jiggled the connector a bit. No response from the IC.
I couldn't find a way to access the pins of the instrument cluster without disconnecting the connector. The connector didn't seem to have a way to pry off the back. All voltages for every pin looked as expected. I tested with the ignition on and off and the pins had the voltage that was expected based on the description of the pins.
I tested the ground pin and it was 1 ohm to ground.
I plugged the IC back in and the IC worked perfectly. I have driven the car several times with no issues.

I suspect you might be right about the ground. Maybe I tugged the cable enough to temporarily mask the issue.
The other possibility is the IC just needed a good reset. This all started when my battery developed a bad cell.

If it happens again, I will pull the constant-on fuse for 30 seconds and see if that resets without disturbing any wires. If that doesn't fix it, I will start tracing the wiring harnesses from the IC out watching for a reaction on the IC.

Thanks again!

 

When doing resistance or continuity check both ends of the connector should be removed. When checking voltage, and depend on the situation the connectors must be intact and you can't disconnect it, that's time when you need to use back probe pin to get its voltage. I don't see why you need to disconnect the IC connector when you insert the pin to where the wires go. BTW use only back probe pin from a kit, never use paper clips like most clueless DIYers you seen on youtube. If you can't afford just buy the back probe kit from harbor freight. Paper clip is way too thick and can easily damage the wire and the grommet.

So the DTC P2067 is gone now?

 

Hi @heiko

The connector is solid molded plastic with no access to the pins from the back even with the proper probes.

Yes, the DTC P2067 is gone. No codes at all now. I have been driving it daily to see if it will fail again. So far so good. I want to sell my car. I don't want it to have a failure immediately and sour the buyer.

Thanks again,

Dain Bramage (alias obviously)