I just picked up a 2008 extended cab XLT with a 4cyl and 5 spd. Seems to run great and have plenty of power. (I traded a 93 with over 300K) Couldnt pass up the rebates.
Anyway, one issue right now.
When shifting (when you let off the gas and push in the clutch)the engine just continues to rev for several seconds and then slows down very slowly.
To shift without a jerk you have to hold the clutch for 5 -6 seconds.

Is there a way to disable this feature? In the old days of carbs they used to put a little shock absorber (for lack of a better term) on the carb that made the throttle close slowly.

If the engine wont slow down quicker I am going to have trouble enjoying this truck. I am old school and like to drive smooth and as an old truck driver also do a lot of clutchless shifting which is now impossible.[/align][/align]I read all related posts and the notion that all fuel injected vehicles are like this is simply wrong. My 2006 miata does not behave like this. (I do realize it has a much closer ratio transmission)
Thanks in advance for your help.[/align]

 

I beleive it has more to due with the IAC (Idle Air control) it is my understanding that on sticks the IAC takes over for the TPS when clutched and the computer holds the revs up for emission or something. IE technically not a problem with the truck.

 

Thanks for the conformation. I kind of figured that it was "the way it is suppose to work" or as they say, it's a feature, not a problem.That , however does not make it suck any less. It just means that I will have to explore other ways to solve other than through Ford Warrenty. I sent an e-mail to Bamachips yesterday to see if this "feature" (the IAC) is programmable.

I'll post another reply if and when I hear back from them.

Thanks again
Randy

 

This is my conversation with BamaChips.

Just purchased a 2008 2.3 Ranger with 5spd.
It runs great and is fast enough but has the following issue which I am told
is shared by all of the configuration.
The engine slows down too slow. Between shifts it takes 4-6 seconds for the
rpms to come down to a point where they match the next gear. This makes any
attempt at a resonabley quick shift just bounce your head off the back
window. I like smooth. (I also like 87 octane and 28 MPG) If I had wanted a
racer I would have bought a Mustang GT (Oh yea, I have one!)
You say custom tunes so can you simply make the throttle return to idle
quickly and not change anything else? I think this would benifit more than
just me. If it stalls in the driveway when you let off the gas from 3000RPM
in neutral, I can live with that.
Thanks
Randy

HI Randy,
I can but it may take a few tries to get 100% to what you like because everyone's needs are different. I'm willing to give it a shot, all you'd need to do is buy a tuner from me for the truck and the files would be free, even the changes.
Thanks,
Douglas Studdard
www.BamaChips.com
205-302-0231

Sounds good. I am going to give Ford a chance first at the 3500 mile service. I am going to complain that the throttle sticks and it is a safety issue. I don't know if they will be able to fix it, but crying the safety wolf should get their attention.
If I have no luck at Ford I will be in touch.
I am pretty sure that it is the IAC circuit that is causing the problem. It seems to me that once the vehicle is up to temp and the IAC figures out how much to leak to make the engine run at 900 RPM then it could just turn it's self off (stop adjusting)unless the tps remains closed for more than 3-4 seconds or something like that.
It seems that current programming causes the IAC to go full open as soon as the TPS comes off idle. If the IAC only worked when the TPS was closed that would seem more normal. It would also fix the issue that the vehicle does not hold it's speed on the downhills (It goes down hill like an automatic)
Thanks,
Randy Shrimplin

 

Update: I got brave and disconnected the IAC solonoid at the intake. The engine stalled within 5-6 seconds. I got in held the pedal open a bit and started the truck. It ran and shifted perfect. (except that it would not idle)

So, Thank you very much for the insight "Tomb1269" You hit that nail on the head for sure. I am not to 3500 miles yet but I am getting more sure that the dealer is not going to be able to help me on this one.

Now what I want to know is this.
Is the function of the IAC a controllable function like with a programmer?

Could I just install a switch in the circuit to turn it off after warm up and then set the base idle with the throttle stop? When I drove with it disconnected it did not make the engine light come on.
It's just a controlled vacumn leak.