So my Ford Ranger 2.3L 2011 with 170k miles was very rough starting and had a shaky engine. I administor oil changes ans other maintenance regularly. Someone recommended that I change the starter/ solenoid . Replaced it with a new starter/ solenoid. And truck would not start from there. So after that, I replaced the ignition coil thinking that could be the issue. Still will not start but can hear faint humming noise from underneath now. Wondering where I should go from here and or if there is any advice anyone out there can give me in my situation.

 

How about we try to get on the same page?

When you say the engine won't start, we need to know does the starter make any attempt to crank the engine over so it can start running?
If it does that we can say it cranks the engine over, but will not start running.
So does it crank the engine over and the engine just will not start running or when you go to start the engine you get nothing?
Thanks for your help.

 

When I go to start the engine I'm getting nothing, no cranking noise.

 

Power is usually supplied from the ign sw to the start position then through the neutral safety sw if an auto trans, or clutch safety sw if stick shift on down to the starter relay on the firewall.. A simple test light can tell you if that power is getting down to the relay. If that checks out OK then there may be a problem with the starter itself.

A GENTLE tap on the starter motor itself may allow the starter to operate. If that works , a starter motor replacement will most likely be required.

A side note; older starter motors were able to handle a good blow if the brushes inside were stuck or worn, but newer starters have expensive magnetic poles and can be damaged by a heavy blow, so be a little careful with the hammer.

 

Thanks for the info, someone else also recommended replacing the ignition switch, I plan on replacing that tommorow.

 

I hope you read this before possibly replacing a good ign sw.

A simple test light will confirm if you have a good or bad ign sw , so I would suggest investing in a decent test light which is cheap compared to an ign sw.

What will you plan on replacing next if replacing the sw doesn't correct the problem, you now see where I am going with this.

You can use a test light to check fuses without removing them and this saves a lot of time and work. There is all kinds of help here, so don't be hesitant to use it.