I'm preventatively changing out both my Mom's 02 Taurus' front brake lines and haven't done this in a while so thought I'd write in for some general advice. Changing out the flexible hoses that go from the brake caliper to the solid line. I should be fine with the brake bleeding afterwards, I'm more thinking about dealing with the 2 line connections. Do either of the connections get either say anti-seize or maybe even loc tite? I'm thinking I was told a while ago to use high-temp copper anti-seize on something I was dealing with at the front brake caliper but can't remember if it was the brake line connection or not. That might've been one of the caliper or caliper plate bolts actually.

Also, I turned every page in the FSM that had anything to do with brakes and couldn't find a procedure for changing out those brake lines. Any idea what size wrench for the connection with the solid line? Only thing I could find was an old youtube video featuring a '98 and the guy said he used a 13mm.

I'm all ears for any advice before I dive into this. Thanks.

 

Do not apply anything to the threads on the fittings.There's no mention of anything needing to be applied in my FSM's.There wasn't anything applied at the factory on these anyways. What I have always done, after the new fitting has been tightened, put a dab of grease over the fitting and where the rigid line enters the fitting.For future removal, the problem isn't the threads, it's where the line meets the fitting. The line will often twist upon removal. You likely will not have to worry about it as the new lines will likely outlast the car.

13MM sounds right. Use line wrenches to tighten the new fittings. To remove the old fittings, you can either use line wrenches or cut the steel line flush with the fitting and use a six point socket to remove the old fitting. In that situation, the six point socket works a little better removing stubborn fittings.

Keep in mind, you likely will need a scan tool to activate your ABS module for bleeding.

 

Thanks for the advice on using a scan tool for bleeding. Haven't heard of having to activate the ABS module yet. What's that involve?

 

The better scan tools will have the ability to activate the solenoids in the ABS module when you are bleeding which will expel any trapped air in it so that you can bleed out that air.

 

Ok hadn't heard of that before. I've got a reader but I don't think it'll active the ABS solenoids like you mentioned. I'm just gonna do a regular brake bleed and see how well they work after I'm done. Would I be right to assume that if the brakes end up working well that expelling trapped air from the solenoids issue can be forgotten?

 

Try bleeding manually first. Then if you can do this in a SAFE manner, you can bleed without the scan tool. After you manually bleed the system, several hard brake applications on a gravel driveway, empty snow covered parking lot or a snow covered side street (with no traffic) will activate the ABS module.Then you can do a second bleeding of the system and you should be good to go. The trick is doing this in a safe manner on a deserted nearby street.

 

If you do a pressure bleed using a brake pressure bleeder you will not have to worry about air in the lines or abs.
Make sure you replace the cooper crush washers that go between the flex hose and caliper.

 

After replacing both front flexible brake lines and tightening everything back up I go to start flushing all 4 lines as the fluid is due to be flushed and there are tiny bubbles galore vacuum bleeding at all four brakes. Because I changed out the front lines I bleed those first just to get fluid in there. Although I keep the fluid reservoir filled during this whole process I get lots of continuous bubbles starting with bleeding the front lines, and then with both the rear. Working the hand vacuum pump through all this got Really tiring as 95% of what was coming through was bubbles. But I was determined to get all the old brake fluid out so I end up running just short of a 32oz can through all the lines until the fluid is clean, but I still have the bubble issue.

Only thing I can think of is that I got turned around somehow and when I went to loosen the first old front brake line from the solid line I ended up tightening the compression fitting (?) about 2 full turns instead of loosening. Not having replaced a brake line in a while I'd forgotten brake lines generally loosen right up once they're cracked. But dumb me forced that D#!& nut around twice and I'm guessing ruined the threads at that connection, and now that's what's giving me all the bubbles. The hex part or 'nut' I over-tightened is on the hard line that comes in from the left in the pic below.

Only 3 places I'm sure the air ISN"T coming from is the reservoir (as it was always filled), the soft line connection point top bleed screws, or where the vac line attaches to the bleeder screws as I watched the air come directly out of all the screw holes.

Note, the picture shows some brake fluid on the threads of the nut I over-tightened. As a test I wiped the fluid off then pumped and mashed on the brake pedal hard (spongy) but no fluid came out again at that connection, it stayed dry. I guess it was on there from when I put it back together.

Any advice on what to do next or how to figure out if the bubbles are coming from the connection I may have ruined?

 

I would loosen the nut and take a look at the threads and the flare. You may be able to cut off the end flare, install a new nut and flare the end.
It takes some practice but its probably easier then replacing the entire hard brake line.