So I'm getting Transmission range sensor codes.

I am not sure what the code is off the top of my head but all the symptoms add up to the TRS being bad.

I was going to go ahead and replace that, but it turns out the TRS is inside the transmission.

1) why the F...?
2) I imagine getting that replaced at the dealer will be really really expensive because of the labor involved.
3) I have seen videos of people bypassing the TRS on other vehicles, but can't find any info on how to do it in this model Edge.

Does anyone know how to bypass the TRS, or how much a dealer would charge for this job?

 

Are you having "no crank no start" problem intermittently or continuously or just the CEL but car starts fine?
It's fine to bypass it for diagnostic purpose and if you know what you are doing but not because it costs so much labor to replace.
Who told you the TRS is inside the tranny? I just searched rockauto and I found they are external and quite inexpensive. But how do you know for sure replacing it can fix the problem?
Unfortunately my Alldata software is up to 2009 can't send you any instructions/diagrams.

 

It (no crank, no start) started intermittently, but now it just wont do anything. I assume it is internal because my Haynes manual says it is, and I don't visually see it. I also found some TRS that can be purchased, that look like normal TRS on other fords, which is what gave me the idea to replace it myself.

For many months the message window would randomly give a message while driving to shift into park,for some reason. we would usually just hit ok and go about the drive with no running issues.

About two weeks ago it just died while driving, didn't think it had anything to do with the transmission. It would not crank or start. I cleared the codes and tried to start it with no luck...tried to start it one more time before calling the tow truck, and it started.

Started driving it and it slammed into gear, and then while driving it didn't want to go so we parked it...decided to call the tow truck anyways. after getting it home it started with no issues, and drive with no issues. drove it about a week, and it did no crank no start...tried it again a few min later and it started and made it home just fine. now it just wont crank or start, and got codes calling out the TRS

If you could point me to something else that might fix the problem I would be very thankful. Your time is appreciated

 

What I would do is to NOT buy anything yet, do a visual inspection on the wiring and connector. Do a TRS reset and see if it's possible. Everytime it doesn't start in P, try to start in N and see if it starts. And since the TRS fuse didn't blow, more than likely the starting circuit (from ignition B+ to ST to fuse box to TRS) is fine. Though your TRS still can't pass thru the circuit to your starter solenoid to complete the circuit because you need to be P or N position and TRS also needs to confirm that position. Get the scan tool and try one more time. Also, if you can handle removing the connector for inspection (do a cleaning too if the TRS is removed) you need to ask yourself if you can handle replacing the TRS yourself.

If your engine died while driving you know that's another issue you need to provide more details.

 

Okay. I don' think the TRS reset worked. I didn't get the alarm telling me it did. Maybe because the engine wont start? the instructions say to start the car. I tired it multiple times.
I disconnected, and inspected the wire harness that goes into the transmission. I cleaned it with engine cleaner. (there as SOME fluid in the harness)
I've tried to start in all gears multiple times.

As for am I comfortable doing this job. Not really. I did do the head gasket on this engine months ago. That is a big job, but I understand engines. I don't understand transmissions, and worried I might lose an important small piece or something.

The haynes maunal says, do not attempt to do it. Take it to a dealer which i guess plays on my doubts...A manual that tells you how to do just about everything saying..."Don't try this is" and gives no instructions on how is nerve racking I guess.

I replaced the timing solenoids yesterday before moving onto what I thought was going to be replacing the TRS. I replaced those, thinking that might have been why the engine died while driving. I did remove them a while back to clean them because they were giving problems, and I was also getting codes about them...and I got them again after the car died while driving

 

On the TRS cleaning you should use brake cleaner on non-electrical part, and use contact cleaner or electronic cleaner on the harness and the connector on the TRS itself.
If you are not too comfortable switching TRS out yourself, then take it to a reputable mechanic to do it and just TRS or its shifter cable adjustment if needed shouldn't cost you over $300, but you will need a mechanic who knows how to diagnosis and not just replacing the TRS and quit.
Since your car is still driveable by luck why don't you try to fix the engine stalling while driving first? Check the fuel pressure with engine off key to run, and with engine idling, also check the spark plug, wet or dry, unplug MAF connector and drive to see if any improvement, also check the vref for the engine coolant temperature sensor.

 

I appreciate your advice...Thank you very much for it.

 

For the TRS if you do take your car to the mechanic, tell them you get no crank no start and TRS code, no more no less, let them find out more and tell you. If you tell them to just swap the TRS some mechanics tend to be lazy and do what's told to and move on to another car and later blame you for something that's not fixed still.

 

So I decided to take on this job, since the mechanic didn't want to do it, and I think i know why now.

I have been trying to pull this pin for 2 days now, with no luck. The guide says put locking plyers on it, and remove the pin.
I tried that..
I also tried to hold onto the handles of the vice grips with a large pair of channel locks and tap/bang on the channel locks to get it to budge.
I tried heating the shifter bolt from the top and do the banging on channel locks.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to remove this pin?

 

On the typical E/F series I'd use jaw locking pliers instead of channel lock pliers especially on a tight spot. Sorry can't help you on removing the TRS, hopefully someone else can assist you or you just have to search youtube on that.
Wait, I thought you wanted to find out the no start issue first to confirm it's TRS fault. The way I would do it is at the "starter relay" to confirm if I get 12v coming from the ignition switch thru the fuse box, then thru the TRS.
The starter relay should be inside your engine fuse box instead of the fender mount cylinder type, either one, it's not too difficult to test. Once you confirm that, waste no time just replace the TRS and done.
Can you locate the starter relay, remove it and attach a pic here, and another pic of the female socket on the fuse box after the relay is removed.