Good Morning,

I need some help tuning my Carburetor, I have Manuals and have researched ways to tune it and I seem to find lots of different ways. I cannot get the Idle Mixture, nor the hot and cold idle to jive. It will fire up, but seems to stall randomly, I frequently smell gas, and I just can't seem to get it tuned. Can anyone advise me on how (from their experience) I can step by step, tune my Carb. I have pulled it out, cleaned and rebuilt the carb. Possible troubleshooting ideas as to why it may simply not tune correctly are also appreciated. The vehicle has sat for about 15 years and I pulled it out of the weeds.

I've got a autolite 2100 2B, model C9 TF K, Manual choke.

I really appreciate any help.

Thank you

 

Welcome to the site..

When you rebuilt it do you replace the power valve on the under side of the carb? If they crack and leak, or stick open, it will either drip fuel into the intake manifold, or bleed unmetered fuel through the main/venturi. If it leaks into the manifold generally it will take some extended cranking to to clear the flood, of puff black until the leaked fuel is burned off. With it idling, look into the carb and see if the venturi area drips any fuel.

Also, it should have a spacer plate under the carb. Was the spacer gasket replaced when the carb was done? They get overlooked a lot. Float level was reset/checked during the build? Some of the carb mounting gaskets were different (larger throttle plate holes, or shapped different at the back) was it checked with the original? Same with the spacer gasket.

Other things that come to mind is/was,, checking the bottom of the carb for 'flat' during the build. Seen them overtightened with the incorrect gasket thickness and will bow the ears, and may create a vacuum leak point. Vacuum advance is important on a cold start too, should be checked to make sure the diaphram is good. PCV checked?


Was the carb blown clean through with compressed air after it wash/soaked?

Nice old Ford iron.. Would love to find one here to use on my property..

 

Thank you for the reply,

Yes I did replace the power valve, after I cleaned and rebuilt it, the power valve was leaking. That was the main reason I cleaned and rebuilt it, virtually everything was replaced. Oddly after the rebuild, I had a gas leak at the accelerator pump now. long story short, I fixed them both and do not believe I have a problem there. (no gas leaks) I never did mess with the adjustments until the very last time I disassembled it in an effort to troubleshoot.

Yes there was a spacer plate, If i remember correctly, there was a gasket directly on the manifold, then the spacer, then another gasket, I replaced only the top gasket, and never removed the spacer. This is why I cannot be sure if there was another gasket under the spacer. It did not want to come loose, and I chose not to fight it. Mistake? And yes I did verify the right gaskets went in the right place. My kit did come with tons of gaskets and most went unused. I will double check them, but pretty certain they are correct.

One thing I certainly did not do was adjust the float, I only removed and cleaned it, then simply re-installed it, and probably vital, but I did not replace the jets either. I did not have a tool to remove them, and I didn't want to risk damaging them pulling them out with a screwdriver. I know they can be touchy.

Yes, after cleaning with carburetor cleaner, No soaking at all. I did blow all areas of the Carburetor out with compressed air.

My first carb, so please bare with me.

If I did not adjust the float, will it severely effect the adjustment procedure, and not allow proper adjustment?

Is there a method I can use to simply test the carburetor and find out if it needs replaced, or just a specific part problem.

You see, I figured I could set the adjustment after rebuild, and everything would be perfect but nooooo. I fix one issue and find another.

Also, is there a possibility that the fuel filter/or pump could be causing this? I do have a new fuel filter but need to get it in there. Remember the truck was parked and not started in 15 years.

I just want to be sure that I am not making a mistake making the adjustments because I am inexperienced with carburetors.

Thank you so much Hayapower, I really appreciate it this help.

 

You know, it's really hard for me to say this, but I'm getting too damned old to think that I actually liked worked on carbs and was any good at them.
There's a lot to check on this, like:
1) If this has been sitting for a while (yes, it has), then you can bet the fuel tanks, lines and/or the filter are plugged with rust, water, or sediment.

2) These had many problems with vacuum leaks (very much the case with the 6 clyinders). Look for a base plate gasket or adaptor leaks. A bit of carb cleaner sprayed around the intake/bottom of carb is all that's needed. If it smoothes out, there you go.

3) It doesn't sound like any prep was done before it sat, so what kind of shape was the cooling system, as well as the ignition system in. If it runs, then I suppose it can't be the primary problem.

4) Carbs do wear out. The throttle plates were always a bugaboo, as were fuel leaks. With todays fuels out here in the mile high city, you can bank on a carb overhaul about every year. You'll be getting a lot of experience adjusting this carb because you'll be doing it more often with our WONDERFUL oxygenated fuels. The fuel doesn't discriminate. It will eat up all kinds of rubber equally.
My money is with a vauum leak. The 6 cly. had the intake and exhaust manifolds bolted together, and they cracked and leaked under the carb. This was a very common problem years ago.
If they were repaired, they used to run quite well.

 

So,, you didn't replace the needle/seat? Only cleaned the float? Most times when you replace the needle/seat the float is pretty close to adjusted anyway, as long as it wasn't bent during disassembly ect. or a replacement float. And if the level was too high,, it generally will spill fuel out the vent tube.

But 'double check' the venturi area with it idling and make sure there isn't any fuel dripping.

Also, if the idle is unstable,, take a cotton cloth gathered up and 'loosely' and place it over the mouth of the carb. 'Gently' constrict the intake air.. Does the idle smooth out??

You never removed the idle mixture screws? if not,, you might try and remove them and blow compressed air through the holes. Re install the screws and back them out about 3 turns as a start point. If the idle is stable enough,,, turn one 'in' at a time until the engines slows and the idle get rough,, back it out until it smooths again and you usually can add an additional 1/4 turn or so.. Repeat for the opposite side..

Some carbs just won't take a kit, but could be after 15 years of vacation time , something is still plugged, or could be a vacuum issue..

 

I have removed the needle seat, and installed the new one. It was a different type than the original, I installed the carb, then remember an immediate problem, and unfortunately I can not remember what, nor if I re-installed the factory needle. Im betting I re-installed the factory needle, Time spent is sporadic and I do what I can when I can. Not to mention I do so many troubleshooting techniques that they all run together. LOL anyway

I hope that I do not have a problem with the tank, or the fuel lines. It seems to deliver gas just fine, but yes, all of your comments, Greasemark certainly are plausible. I hope I dont have a more serious issue anywhere. I did remove one mixture screw and messed with both the hot and cold adjustment. Now I just need to make them jive. Factory manual says to remove them 1 1/2 turn, and try to adjust from there, but lots of advice says different. I have tried everything and no luck. I think I need to look at the carb again and verify some of what you guys are talking about.

I do have a fuel pump and vacuum gauge tester, I just need to figure out how to use it. Hopefully that will answer some questions for me.

She is a V-8 360, and I can check these issues soon.

I can get her running, and achieve a smooth idle usually, but different circumstances change the engine idle. Such as weather, Engine Hot/Cold, test driving such as slowing to stop then it dies. choke engaged/disengaged and it has a smooth idle in park then a rough idle in drive. If I achieve both of these, then it wont start when cold or has a very rough idle. So confusing.

Thank you guys