So I picked up a Fel Pro exhaust manifold gasket set from Auto Zone again going for the cheap stuff. I used a razor type tool to scrape the old gasket off (man so much easier to work on with the engine out of the car, LOL), and a metal ruler to check my heads and see if my exhaust manifolds were worped, and they look good. Then I spent some time cleaning the old bolts with a wire prush and WD-40. And I chased the threads in the heads, [hey that rhymes] and cleaned them out really good, yes should have done it when the heads were off, but oh well. I also took the wire brush to the exhaust manifold and got some of the rust off of it. So before I put them on I have a few questions.

QUSTIONS:

The gaskets have a shiny metalic side and a dull side, which side goes towards the engine, which side towards the exhaust manifold or header? Two AutoZone "experts" had two different opinions!

Do I put any type of goop on the gaskets or do they go on dry? My guess would be dry.

What goop if anything do I put on the exhaust manifold bolts before screwing them in. I know I can rule out LockTight, jk.

As I can no longer buy replacement bolts, can I replace a broken exhaust manifold bolt with a grade 5 (3 notches on the head) bolt, or should I use grade 8 (6 notches on the head). Please see picture below of the old bolts and a new grade 5 bolt..

I wonder if the rust will come back on the manifolds unless I coat them with something?

thank you and you can see more of the project here:

Small Block Ford 302 V8

 

someone on another forum recommends

"ARP stainless steel exhaust bolts never seize or rust !!! coat the threads with 30w motor oil and torque to 35 ft.lbs."

Oil on the bolt threads, seriously ?

 

Definately go with the stainless. You could use oil on the threads, but I prefer copper antisieze in this application. Stainless can bur/gaul under torque and when that occurs, you may break the bolt when trying to remove it the next time.

 

Is this the stuff?

Permatex, Anti-Seize Lubricant
Item # 81343 (133A)

Use in spark plug installation on aluminum cylinder head-equipped engines... [ahem] but if you read on it says and cast iron heads.

- Prevents corrosion
- Permits easy disassembly
- Will not wash away (no kidding don't get it on your hands)
- Eliminates galling, seizing
- Lubricates
- Withstands up to 1600 F

Use On:

- Manifold Studs
- Oxygen Sensors
- Hinges
- EGR Fittings
- Brake Anchor Pins
- Head Bolts
- Assemblies exposed to heat or corrosion
- Spark Plug Threads when installing in aluminum or cast iron heads.

 

That will work. It's mostly aluminum with some copper and graphite in it. The copper only comes in 8oz and 16oz brushtop bottles. I like the copper in this type of application because it's good for up to 1800 degrees. Just my preference.

 

What do you make of this comment by someone on another forum?

"... wait we're talking about iron manifolds on an iron head right?
i never use gaskets between them if that was the case. less chance of warping when two exact same metals are right next to each other..."

 

First, the manifold won't warp if you use a gasket. And unless you're 100% sure that the heads and manifolds are a 100% perfect machined match, they'll leak without a gasket. I'm 51 years old and have since I was about 11 years old, worked on engines of all sizes, shapes, types, fuels, displacement and years of manufacture from my 1937 Dodge 1-Ton Dump Truck thru todays toys. I've always have used an exhaust manafold gasket and they all had one before being disassembled. But, that's my opinion and experince.

 

OK, thank you all for your advice, I got the drive side exhaust manifold mounted using the anti seize compound and torquing the bolts to 24 ft lbs as recommended by the Haynes manual, then I saw this post on another forum:

"... Also a big warning!!!!!!!! The use of any lube other than light oil will alter the torque needed to tighten the bolt/nut. The rule of thumb is to lower the torque setting by up to 30%. The anti seize reduces the friction between the threads so if you think you want 100# torque and go that tight you will be grossly over tightening the fastener and may even break it. "

 

Thanks for posting your results/follow up Gregski!

 

Wet torque specs are normally about 35% less then the dry specs and will apply the same CLAMPING force as a dry bolt/nut torqued to the dry specs. Most torque specs are based on 75% of PROOF load of a given nut/bolt. Depending on the bolt grade being used. The load capacity between a GRADE 5 and a GRADE 8 bolt is about 40%. Torque specs for critical or competition application are normally torqued 10% higher than spec.

Also, never leave a torque wrench set at anything other than "0" when finished using it.

I have a chart that I use for SAE bolts with DRY/Wet specs if you want me to email it to you.