View Poll Results: Did I get ripped off?
Yes, the guys' an A**
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Nope, You're an idiot is all.
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Help timing a 460.
#1
07-27-2010, 10:23 AM
Help timing a 460.
Hello All!
My name is Evan. Most guys around here call me Doc. I recently got home from deployment with the Corps. While I was there I had an offer from a classic car broker from Illinois called, Classicmusclecars.com, to purchase a fully restored 72’ Mustang. We’ll, I know a bit about newer cars. EFI and the such. But I’ve never dealt with these older girls before. So I figured now’s as good a time as any. Well, being in the military, I guess they saw me coming a mile away. They definitely took me through the cleaners and I did not get what I was paying for. I already sought legal counseling only to be told I had no case. For instance, the first day I was driving her, the back left wheel broke clean off. I drove maybe 3 miles from where the truck dropped her off at. I was doing 50….you can imagine the damage done. And Believe it or not things have gotten worse from there. The guy who runs the joint definitely took me for a ride. Well, 5K later, give or take, I’m almost there. I’ve just got to time and tune the engine, body work, and some interior things and it’ll be pretty sweet ride. I don’t intend on giving up on the car. So my question is…
The engine setup it a ford 460, not sure what vehicle its originally out of but I believe it’s 7.5l. I was once told that it was out of a 79’ F250 if I remember right. It has a high rise intake and tunnel ram setup made by weiand. Dual quad 600 cfm carbs. And an msd ign module/coil. Right now I can’t seem to get it timed right. I can’t seem to dial it in just so. Any ideas? Does the msd alter the BTDC or the timing setup? Thanks everyone! I appreciate yalls help!
Oh and here’s a list of all the things that went wrong in order of occurrence…in case you were wondering…
1. BL wheel broke clean off. 3 miles
2. After market shifter broke, couldn’t go into drive. Next morning.
3. Headers no properly secured. Noticed when installing new shifter.
4. Water pump went out. Approx 4 more miles
5. Alternator went out. Next morning
6. Oil pump was next. Later that evening, still at seven miles.
7. The valve that controls break pressure between left and right in the rear…blew off somewhere on the road. No breaks. A week later, Total miles drove 10.
8. After market gauges in the console shorted and caught fire. Still at ten miles.
9. Oh there’s a lot more, but they’re like little things. Things I expect to be wrong with the car. Like lil’ interior or exterior issues.
I called him to tell him he needs to figure out a way to make this car into the one I paid for he told me,
“Well maybe you’re not ready for this car.” He goes on,” This car is not a 100 point show car, I told you that. And sides’ I sold it as in with no warranty. What did you expect?”
Too all the guys out there who’ve been working on old muscle and pony cars for a long time, I fully understand that these old cars are a lot of work. Work I’m willing to do. I understand they take a lot of know how, well I’m trying hard to learn. Shoot I’ve learned a lot and I’ve only owned this car for a month. I also realize that not every one is meant to have their own classic muscle or pony car. Well I think I am, but whether I am or not is besides the point. The right thing is the right thing and this Randy character over there at Classicmusclecars.com doesn’t do what he says he’ll do. I was born and raised in a small town in Oklahoma. Where I come from a man is only as good as his word. So this post Went a diff direction. I started with a question and then turned into this. I just wanna’ say…I didn’t spend 3 deployments of getting shot at and blown up saving up for a car I can say is mine only to be ripped off like this. Any ways, back to the point. If any one has any info on how to tune and time this car, I’d appreciate the help.
My name is Evan. Most guys around here call me Doc. I recently got home from deployment with the Corps. While I was there I had an offer from a classic car broker from Illinois called, Classicmusclecars.com, to purchase a fully restored 72’ Mustang. We’ll, I know a bit about newer cars. EFI and the such. But I’ve never dealt with these older girls before. So I figured now’s as good a time as any. Well, being in the military, I guess they saw me coming a mile away. They definitely took me through the cleaners and I did not get what I was paying for. I already sought legal counseling only to be told I had no case. For instance, the first day I was driving her, the back left wheel broke clean off. I drove maybe 3 miles from where the truck dropped her off at. I was doing 50….you can imagine the damage done. And Believe it or not things have gotten worse from there. The guy who runs the joint definitely took me for a ride. Well, 5K later, give or take, I’m almost there. I’ve just got to time and tune the engine, body work, and some interior things and it’ll be pretty sweet ride. I don’t intend on giving up on the car. So my question is…
The engine setup it a ford 460, not sure what vehicle its originally out of but I believe it’s 7.5l. I was once told that it was out of a 79’ F250 if I remember right. It has a high rise intake and tunnel ram setup made by weiand. Dual quad 600 cfm carbs. And an msd ign module/coil. Right now I can’t seem to get it timed right. I can’t seem to dial it in just so. Any ideas? Does the msd alter the BTDC or the timing setup? Thanks everyone! I appreciate yalls help!
Oh and here’s a list of all the things that went wrong in order of occurrence…in case you were wondering…
1. BL wheel broke clean off. 3 miles
2. After market shifter broke, couldn’t go into drive. Next morning.
3. Headers no properly secured. Noticed when installing new shifter.
4. Water pump went out. Approx 4 more miles
5. Alternator went out. Next morning
6. Oil pump was next. Later that evening, still at seven miles.
7. The valve that controls break pressure between left and right in the rear…blew off somewhere on the road. No breaks. A week later, Total miles drove 10.
8. After market gauges in the console shorted and caught fire. Still at ten miles.
9. Oh there’s a lot more, but they’re like little things. Things I expect to be wrong with the car. Like lil’ interior or exterior issues.
I called him to tell him he needs to figure out a way to make this car into the one I paid for he told me,
“Well maybe you’re not ready for this car.” He goes on,” This car is not a 100 point show car, I told you that. And sides’ I sold it as in with no warranty. What did you expect?”
Too all the guys out there who’ve been working on old muscle and pony cars for a long time, I fully understand that these old cars are a lot of work. Work I’m willing to do. I understand they take a lot of know how, well I’m trying hard to learn. Shoot I’ve learned a lot and I’ve only owned this car for a month. I also realize that not every one is meant to have their own classic muscle or pony car. Well I think I am, but whether I am or not is besides the point. The right thing is the right thing and this Randy character over there at Classicmusclecars.com doesn’t do what he says he’ll do. I was born and raised in a small town in Oklahoma. Where I come from a man is only as good as his word. So this post Went a diff direction. I started with a question and then turned into this. I just wanna’ say…I didn’t spend 3 deployments of getting shot at and blown up saving up for a car I can say is mine only to be ripped off like this. Any ways, back to the point. If any one has any info on how to tune and time this car, I’d appreciate the help.
#2
07-29-2010, 03:01 AM
Je**s Chr**t!!!! I don't know how you kept from killing the SOB. F**ker could've got you killed with the brake problem. Oil pump went out? Who's replacing these parts? If you drove it too far with the oil pump out the motor's likely got shot bearings and will blow apart with that intake setup. No offence to you but you're right - they saw you comin'! Well the good thing to do would be to have someone you trust do a once-over on the block first to check out piston compression (ring wear) and drop oil pan to check bearings (for any possible no-oil situation these 2 things are where to start). Timing chains tension/wear can be quick-checked by putting a wrench on the crank pulley center bolt and removing the distributor cap. Turn the crank bolt slowly (w/spark plugs out is easier: 1st number your wires in a chart 2 put them back later) and as the crank bolt turns the distributor rotor/center shaft should turn with little slack. Turn bolt other way careful not to unbolt and note chain slack between crank and cam by way of watching distributor. Aside from chain slack check timing by finding number 1 piston/cylinder and setting it at TDC Top Dead Center on firing stroke (not exhaust stroke- NOTE need either valve cover off to see #1's valves are both closed for TDC or a remote starter switch and crank the not running engine (distributor unplugged and grounded if necessary) and #1 spark plug removed for your thumb or a compression tester and either feel for the heavy push in #1's cycle: suck, heavy push(TDC on compression), suck, light push(piston TDC on exhaust stroke) and back to beginning of cycle OR insert compression tester and try to catch it like that. Just be careful to leave a slight leak if you use your thumb so it doesn't get vacuumed into the hole (especially on any tight motor claerances deals like with a supercharger). It's 4 AM so - C-ya.
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