Oh yes, I know what you're talking about there, also. I was one of the first in the tech division that knew what was going on with the 98-03 intake plenumn isolator bolts. I've done a bunch.
However, this Aerostar preceeds anything you're talking about. I was referring to the intake plenumn on a 3.0L on this car. It is a one piece design where the throttle plate in integral to the plenumn; and, when they wear, can create lots of fun driveability problems that aren't always easily explained, such as a tip in or out stall, hesitation, erratic idle. Since the newest Aerobag was made in 1997, they are all worn by now.
This plenumn is referred to as the "J" plenumn, and I made sure when working on these that I didn't do anything to damage them, as they cost about $800.00 about 5 years ago. It's unfortunate that Ford didn't make this a seperate item, as they did in 1996 and up. It would have save a lot of people money.
But, I didn't design them,
I just fix them.

 

First, thanks for the insight into the clockspring. I now have a notion of what I'll be dealing with. It strikes me as plausible that the pesky clockspring MIGHT be replaced with a length of computer-type flat ribbon cable wound in the same configuration.

Now on to the new problem: The sliding side door refuses to unlatch. When I first got the van I learned that (1) the outside plastic door handle was broken off, and (2) the mating linkage from the release handle to the heavy wire shaft that travels rearward was missing. In a rush, I fashioned a jury-rig fix just using a nut partially threaded onto the wire shaft and some wire wrapped around to hold it together. This worked for maybe 6 - 10 cycles. Then I may have slid the door shut with too much force and now it refuses to open. Is there a diagram somewhere that might afford an X-ray type view of what's going on inside the door panels with respect to the door latching/unlatching mechanisms?
Thanks.

 

Got it fixed. Had to cut several access holes using a holesaw. Protip: Start holesaw close to the rear edge of the door. I drilled a total of 4 holes, and could have made do with just two.
Mechanical force gets applied to the rear-mounted latching assembly by means of PUSHING A ROD from the front of the door all the way to the back where the latch is. Item: When you push a rod against a resistance, chances are good that the rod will flex. In this case, Ford installed a plastic guide (mine's yellow plastic) about 1/3 back from the handle - leaving the rest of the rod free to flex. Which it did. Outward. Which caused the stamped sheet metal latch lever to be bent outward, rendering the latch release inoperable. I used a 30" prybar to bend the the latch lever back in. Then I drilled a couple of holes at a point about half way between that plastic rod guide and the latch lever and installed some stout wire to serve as a 2nd rod guide. A little dab of wheel bearing grease lets the rod slide easily while the wire inhibits excessive flexing - and reducing the likelyhood of a repeat of the problem.
Bonus: My outside plastic door handle was broken when I bought the van. I drilled & tapped a hole into the remaining stub of handle and epoxy'd in a 1/4-20 bolt. <--Not pretty, but it works for me!

Here's a picture of the bent lever arm:
http://s1.bild.me/bilder/060112/2294...g_door_001.jpg

Here's my jury-rigged rod guide:
http://s1.bild.me/bilder/060112/1069...g_door_002.jpg

Homely-looking outside door handle fix:
http://s1.bild.me/bilder/060112/1646...g_door_005.jpg

Thanks, guys, for all the input!
Jim

 

I had to replace the clock spring.