97 ford f150???????
starts very easy and runs ok..when it heats up it runs very rich bogs down and will die at times. have replaced injectors and wires . I believe I have them seated. tried each and they open. also many parts replaced such as egg fat fuel regulater and air intake sensors. also sensors in exhaust, old age because I can't remember names of all these sensors at the moment. anyone got any suggestions. I'm going to pull plugs to see. if they are fouled. thank you for any help.
What engine?????
Save those old injectors. They rarely go bad.
Check the plugs, check for stored codes and see what the fuel trims are at with a scan tool. A highly negative going trim( beyond -5 ) will verify an actual rich condition.Make sure you have good vacuum present at the fuel pressure regulator. A lack of it will raise fuel pressure and make sure no fuel comes out of the vacuum nipple.
Save those old injectors. They rarely go bad.
Check the plugs, check for stored codes and see what the fuel trims are at with a scan tool. A highly negative going trim( beyond -5 ) will verify an actual rich condition.Make sure you have good vacuum present at the fuel pressure regulator. A lack of it will raise fuel pressure and make sure no fuel comes out of the vacuum nipple.
Last edited by raski; Mar 20, 2023 at 04:19 AM.
Did you ever get a chance to see if the plugs were wet or dry when it won't start?
Can we ask how was it determined to be running rich?
How does the computer know to add or reduce the amount of fuel going into the combustion chamber?
One of the inputs is, the coolant temp sensor. Was that checked for sending accurate info to the computer?
If is is not working right,and the engine runs fine cold , but is really running rich when warm, could it be sending info to the computer telling it, the engine is still cold ?
Can we ask how was it determined to be running rich?
How does the computer know to add or reduce the amount of fuel going into the combustion chamber?
One of the inputs is, the coolant temp sensor. Was that checked for sending accurate info to the computer?
If is is not working right,and the engine runs fine cold , but is really running rich when warm, could it be sending info to the computer telling it, the engine is still cold ?
Most likely when the ECT sensor is not functioning properly, a code (P0128) will be set indicating a longer than normal warm up time with the engine often when a thermostat is stuck open. Codes for the ECT itself often are not set if it is sending information within its normal range but incorrect at a given coolant temperature.
As OP mentioned in poat # 3, that the truck now will not start. That makes it easier to troubleshoot for a fuel pressure or ignition malfunction.
As OP mentioned in poat # 3, that the truck now will not start. That makes it easier to troubleshoot for a fuel pressure or ignition malfunction.
Last edited by raski; Apr 7, 2023 at 03:43 AM.
How to check the temperature sensor? I don’t have very many testing equipment. Obd2
and multi meter. Thank you for your input. Under hood fuses. Should they have 12+ volts running through them? Mini fuses do but larger ones don’t. Number 18? I think it’s to anti theft. 30 amp good fuse but no power running through. Any thoughts?
and multi meter. Thank you for your input. Under hood fuses. Should they have 12+ volts running through them? Mini fuses do but larger ones don’t. Number 18? I think it’s to anti theft. 30 amp good fuse but no power running through. Any thoughts?
ECT stands for Engine coolant temp.
Some fuses will not have any power unless the key is turned on..
These are ball park figures,
At approx 70 degrees F, resistance across sensor should be approx 37 ohms, at operating temp, 140 degrees F the resistance should read approx 7-8 ohms.
If readings are not close , just replace the sensor, they are not that expensive.
Some fuses will not have any power unless the key is turned on..
These are ball park figures,
At approx 70 degrees F, resistance across sensor should be approx 37 ohms, at operating temp, 140 degrees F the resistance should read approx 7-8 ohms.
If readings are not close , just replace the sensor, they are not that expensive.
First ,,,security system will not cause the wipers, lights etc., to come on.
Second,,, if it was that easy to bypass, also easy to steal the vehicle. Not easy to do, easier to fix the problem.
There is a poor ground on the vehicle and the wipers and others sharing that circuit are being used to provide a ground .
Suggest you look for, remove , clean and reinstall every ground connection you can see. Remember,,,,,,,looking at them does nothing !
You might start wilt the grounds coming from battery negative terminal that go to sheet metal on your vehicle After you remove and clean some you might try and see if the problem is gone. If not, do some more.
Second,,, if it was that easy to bypass, also easy to steal the vehicle. Not easy to do, easier to fix the problem.
There is a poor ground on the vehicle and the wipers and others sharing that circuit are being used to provide a ground .
Suggest you look for, remove , clean and reinstall every ground connection you can see. Remember,,,,,,,looking at them does nothing !
You might start wilt the grounds coming from battery negative terminal that go to sheet metal on your vehicle After you remove and clean some you might try and see if the problem is gone. If not, do some more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



