Originally Posted by hanky

I have seen engines that there were better ones in the junk yard, but the owners just kept running them and they managed to get by.

Could you provide a little more info as to just what you mean by "Barely moves"?

Originally Posted by daddyblaize

You’re so right—eternal repairing to no avail. I’ve got a similar bag of bones with my ‘03. I’m competent enough to install engines and transaxle as in the past, but I’ve made mistakes that required double duty. So I’m battling (SOOO) many issues. First this was a salvaged engine that I desperately purchased despite its advertised lower mileage and cost—which should’ve drawn a red flag. Lower SHOULD mean higher, but ignorance was bliss—until it wasn’t. Being proactive I safeguarded my investment with new oil-pump, water-pump and timing chain. I foolishly confused which harmonic balancer was on which engine—and there seems to have been a difference. I thought I’d figured out which was which, but I’m not so sure now. I did a horrible job of realigning the cam phaser the first attempt but redid that well enough. I’m now second guessing whether I missed a tooth on timing set change—or did I install the new chain with the balance shaft out of phase. This idea comes from an audible knocking or tapping sound that I’ve isolated to the engine by running without the belt. Most recently I had to stop a massive leak from the bell housing that turned out to be a dislodged torque converter seal. While I had it out I broke it open and installed a new chain (old was stretched and worn) and stator support (w/bushing) and opened the drainback hole a little. I replaced the torque converter(w/input-shaft bushing) to ensure I’d circumvent any contamination from frictions or steels when it was oil starved. I did some metalwork on the subframe that I bent one day bottoming out. Cut out the section above the dent and used mapp gas and a 5lb hammer with a ball peen as an anvil, and slowly straightened it. I welded back the section ground and smoothed; then sealed with paint…..good as new. The jolt also tore the bolt hole for the LCA. Took two large washers and welded to front and back of that hole re-drilled it…good as new. Back up and running I’m still hearing that incessant knocking. Im beginning to worry that whatever it is could’ve helped to dislodge that converter seal. Then I’m deducing that burnt oil smoke out the tail pipe could indicate a valve seal problem or bent valve or push rod or both—which could account for the tapping. While changing a cracked oil pan, I took an opportunity to try and replicate the tap by shaking the con-rods. Some thrust clearance but no journal/bearing slacknesses.
“Hi my name is Marc—I’m a workaholic!!!” So far, not everyone has been able to find quality images for every theme yet. And I just had to find something related to metal forging and so on, because I did a special site on this topic. Fortunately here anvil images are very much, I did not even expect to find so many. Now the site is already launched and there used these cool images, maybe you can use them.
So my first thought about your issue is, could you have cross-threaded the spark-plug initially when checking cylinder 2 and/or created a compression leak right at that point—the smell of fuel could be an indication. Since gasoline evaporates so quickly you won’t see the leak after it does. If you’re already considering junking it why not wrapping the threads on that spark-plug and see what happens.