2000 Windstar 3.8
We replaced upper intake manifold gaskets, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack and fuel filter.
Still getting misfire on 1 & 2.
Decided I would change out DPFE sensor to see if that was the problem. Now it wont start. Chokes and dies.

I was going to do the injectors but when I hooked up my fancy scanner it showed no fault on either 1 or 2 injectors

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Could a bad Egr valve be why??

 

Was the same misfire present before replacing all those parts ?

Did you replace the plug wires one at a time or otherwise.
The numbering on the coil towers trip up a lot of folks relating to cyls 5 & 6 .

Has any compression test been performed yet?

 

Yes, misfire on cylinder 1 and 2 were already present. All spark plugs wires were done one by one, however on the replacement wires, a couple had blue gray boots, I didn't know why.
No compression test yet

 

I recently tussled with similar issues with my 2003 Windstar. What appeared to be the problem was a faulty injector. I found this by removing all the injectors and rail. To include a step, I took it all the way down to the lower intake manifold. With only a few YouTube videos I fabricated my own injector testing rig. I ran injector cleaner through each one and saw good spray patterns, but one in particular became hot to the touch as it operated. After that it simply stopped working. I replaced that one. Now with the upper plenum off, I took advantage of the access given to the EGR Ports in the lower plenum. I stuffed some balled up paper towels into each runner so’s not to drop any debris into the ports. I then cleaned the EGR Ports with some cleaner and a 7” length of coat hanger. New gasket for upper plenum and one new insulator screw grommets(the rest were still fairly new) and thoroughly cleaned every think I had access to as I reassembled the top end. I did initially find a vacuum hose disintegrated between the intake plenum and the vacuum modulator on the firewall. Although that didn’t initially elude to the main misfire problem. So since I buy ALL my parts from Autozone, I replaced everything that I could with new parts as I reassembled. That means new wires; new coil; new IAC valve. The top end of my engine could be eaten off of it was so clean. Of course I chained the oil before it first startup since the work done. I disco’s the connector to the coil and primed the engine internals with oil pressure by cranking it over until oil was present at the rocker arms, seen through the oil filler hole. Plugged in the coil. She fired right up and ran like a new engine. Trouble is, I changed so many things it was hard to isolate the problem, but if I had to guess, I’d say the overheating injector caused the misfire. These old cars, when maintained will run forever. Tell you the truth—this was a junkyard engine I installed at least 5 years ago. Two things I did as is commensurate with such purchase were oil pump and timing chain. Of course since I had the engine out I changed the water pump as well since I still owned a lifetime warranty on the one from the old engine. I think in phasing the timing chain and sprockets, I installed the balance shaft 180 out of phase. Another thing I did initially was misaligned the torque converter on reassembly, but realigned it to complete the installation. I may have bent the flex-plate or worse—cracked it without realizing. Ever since then the engine ran with a “clunk”. It runs pretty smoothly, but there’s always that secondary disharmony of that “clunk”. Guess what—that was five years ago. So I just call it the old “clunker” and drive it like it’s stolen everywhere. Best believe I put it through its trials ferrying a college aged son to open houses and then a volleyball daughter with her traveling team. I’ve seen it do 110mph. With the “clunk”—which is unnoticeable at 110mph…lol.

 

There is a reason I am asking the following question.

Please tell us how you tested the injectors. Thanks.

 

Other than the scanner results saying, no fault with injector 1, no fault injector 2. No other tests done.

Just hooked up a compression tester. 0 (Zero) compression on #1

 

So what I did to detect the bad injector included some 14ga wire; my own car battery; alligator clipped positive end with a push-on/off switch spliced in on one end and an actual 2003 injector pigtail and connector on the other end. . I used the can of injector clear as the pressurized solvent. I taped the skinny red spray tube that comes with the can to schrader-valved nipple attached to the injector and fastened with appropriate band-clamps. As I sprayed a small burst, I’d quickly actuate the chosen injector with the button. I did this , cleans each injector until I got to the shorted out one. I tucked that rig up for later use, it worked so well.

 

Thank you for your reply.
I'm glad you used a button to activate the injector.
They are operated with MILLI SECONDS and anything longer can burn out the injector or start problems with the winding within the injector.
Lets hope you were fast with the button..

 

So, with 0 compression on #1... am I doomed?
Blown head gasket????

 

I wonder if your threads in spark plug hole of that cylinder are good. You could be losing compression right through those threads. Try maybe Teflon tape on the threads of the compression tester. It could be a burnt valve that’s not allowing a n adequate seal. It could be stuck piston rings; if they freeze where all their gaps are aligned “Bob’s your uncle”. It could be a few things but I say start with the easiest first. Wrap your compression tester threads 5 times with Teflon tape then test compression in that cylinder again.if it doesn’t help, THEN you start more brainstorming it could even be that the threads are rusted or dirty that you think you’ve fastened your plugs or compression tester, but in fact you’re stuck in a rut of debris in the threads. At the very least—listen for a hissing sound at the plug hole