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1999 Ford Windstar LX 3.8 V6

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  #1  
Old 03-02-2014, 08:40 PM
Peter Kiriopoulos's Avatar
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Angry 1999 Ford Windstar LX 3.8 V6

Hello again..

I'm back on here to figure out my alternator/ starting problem. I wrote a few months back about my problem. I got several suggestions, but no luck on fixing the problem!!

The mechanics' have been trying to bypass the issue for weeks, they re-did the battery terminals and fixed any loose wires; but have had no such luck.

I may just end up going to the Ford dealership, and see if they can pinpoint the problem. Might cost a lot of $$$ but i really need my van fixed.

If anyone can help with my issue, I will be forever grateful.

Thank you
 
  #2  
Old 03-03-2014, 02:43 AM
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Hi Pete,
It would help lot if you could provide the info again since it has been a while. Provide as much as you can. The ole crystal ball is kinda dull and can't pull up much info without your help.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:33 AM
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Pete: I had a glance on your old post and it appears that your Windstar is eating alternators for breakfast lunch and dinner.
Clearly, it is not likely that all these alternators were bad or equally bad. There must be another problem that drains the battery and then the alternators get overloaded.
At this pont I would take the alternator out and have it checked at a parts store or auto electric shop. If it is good put it bakc in but make sure that the metal on the mounting points is nice and shiny because they are ground to engine.
Next I would get a reading of the resistance in the wires between the battery and the alternator. If resistance is too high, replace that wire.
look at all the wires at the battery terminal. Apparently the terminal connectors have been replaced but not the cables. Corrosion can migrate under the insulation so you won't see it but it will increase resistance. A voltage drop measurement might be a good way to figure this one out as well.
Then there are a lot of ground connections in the engine bay. Clean each one.

I think you get the picture.....
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:14 PM
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Sorry I should have copied the old postings.

In any case, the original problem started about 8-10 months ago.
I drove the van around and it had a hard time starting, but it cranked every time. I figured it was the battery, so I changed it and problem was solved..

Until these past few months, I have been replacing alternators because of a shortage somewhere. The mechanic said the alternator is burning up, and can't keep up with the load output. Not sure what that means, but it can't be good!!

Up to this point: The mechanics replaced all the battery terminals/cables, disabled the auto locks and security theft system, and that sound it makes when you leave your keys in the ignition is disabled too. It ran for about a week, and then died again. It's now back in the shop again.

Hope this helps, and the mechanic and I are pulling our hair out.
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:04 PM
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I think it will be necessary to do some voltage drop testing. That's how it is done:Voltage Drop Testing
Each circuit needs to be looked at individually.
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:47 PM
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I don't know if this is the answer or if it will solve the problem.
Can you get a number of the amps the alternator is putting out both when first started and after the engine has run for 10 minutes.
Voltage drop testing as suggested by Bluewind will almost always isolate the problem, however, a lot of mechanics aren't sure how to use this valuable tool.
Just knowing the numbers I asked for, might allow a useful suggestion to possibly be offered. Do you know where the shop is obtaining the replacement alternators that don't seem to hold up? There are a lot of questions that will need to be answered, but the problem can usually be corrected if the correct info is available. Something like a poor ground connection in the system can take a mechanic for a real ride if he is not sure how to go about thoroughly checking the system.
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 03:08 PM
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I was reading the comments left, just got off work and talked to the mechanic.

Here is what he told me: with no load, just idling the van it pulls ~12.43 volts, but when you put the A/C on, headlights, etc.. on it drops to like ~6-7 volts. it should be at 14-14.5 volts he said.

I'm not sure what the exact numbers mean, but the last time he used the voltage reader (it had 3 wires connected to a little square box, with a dial) a positive, negative metal things; that he touched to the battery terminals; and I'm guessing a ground wire (looked like a claw that opens in the middle; he put that around the cable close to the alternator. I looked at the screen, and it had a negative sign on the screen (ex. -12.43). (Not sure if that's good or bad).

The mechanic said that there is enough amperage, but not enough voltage to keep up with the alternator load output. (I might have misunderstood him about amps/volts) but he said one has more than the other; but im not sure exactly which one it was.

Thank you
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:39 PM
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Peter: has it been always the same mechanic working on your problem?

Don't get me wrong I don't say he is a bad mechanic. But everyone had strengths and weaknesses. Maybe another mechanic or auto electric specialist may see something that he overlooked. For example you never said that he checked the ground connections as hanky and I suggested.

It might help hinting that you are inclined to give another mechanic a try.

At least yo know there is one method to get to the root of the problem.
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:50 PM
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Bluewind: Yes, the same mechanic has been working on it the whole time. He knows a lot ASE Certified and restores old cars too.

Don't get me wrong, I would take it to a different mechanic, just to see what they come up with. However, I have been taking all my vehicles to him for years; so I would feel bad taking it to another mechanic.

I'll mention to my mechanic about the ground connections that you and hanky suggested. I mean it can't hurt to check them out.

We'll see how it goes, if not, i'll take to another mechanic.
 
  #10  
Old 03-04-2014, 09:02 PM
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If it is of any help the voltage reading with no load and with a load tells us that the alternator is not putting out enough amperage to keep the voltage reading up to 14.2 volts. That alternator on your vehicle is controlled by the computer in the vehicle and that may be why your mechanic cant pin down the problem. It does appear that the problem is the computer or the connections going to and coming from the computer.
 


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