My 1989 ford crown victoria is not starting.. I changed my battery and solenoid and starter and ignition coil and still nothing can someone please help thanks.

 

Have you tested for an active spark, fuel pump run?

 

Yes fuel pump runs when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump engaging.. and what do you mean by active spark.. and could it be the battery I just replaced the battery they could of gave me a used since my old battery was still under warranty.. do you think they gave me a used battery

 

I hear the fuel pump engaging when I turn the key.. could it be the place I got my battery from gave me a used battery since my old battery was still under warranty?? It happens also what do you mean by active spark???

 

When/how did it stop running?
Generally either fuel or spark is missing on a no start on those M/Ys.

If you can test for spark out of the coil-cap wire and/or at a plug wire would help prove out active or hot spark is present. Audible Pump run is good, but testing pressure/volume at the fuel rail on top the engine would prove out spec fuel delivery, at least to the injectors.

Usually when pump run sounds good, and a no start,, spark would be in question.

They shouldn't have given you a used battery, generally a warranty is prorated or % remaining as far as a replacement value you would pay on a new batt.

 

I was dropping my son off to school.. and I parked the car came back to start it and it did nothing.. so after I changed the battery and solenoid and starter and ignition coil and still nothing.. it sounds like it wants to crank but I hear a clicking sound near solenoid could it be the battery not fully charged.. the lights inside car and outside headlights looks dim.. where's the coil cap located

 

Your original post sounded like it you meant it would crank over, but not start..

If the battery is low (dim lighting) then that has to be addresssed first. A low state of charge will affect solenoid/starter operation. Have you tried to jump start the cars battery with another vehicle? If jumped, will the engine crank over?

Or if you have a battery charger, charge the new batt and take it to your local parts house and they'll volt/ load test it for you at no cost. If they gave you a warranty battery, generally there's a build date sticker on the side, or a sell date with the specific date buttons removed, or both...

Possibly a bad connection at the terminals, ground etc, but I'd want to know if the replacement battery has spec output. Unless something was left On, the engine was over cranked drawing the battery down, or some sort of draw/battery drain,, the replacement should be good and hot...

 

Yes it just makes a clicking sound near solenoid my battery cables the negative wire looks like it need replacing it looks a little chip underneath.. but the positive wire looks good.. and no I didn't try jumping the car battery yet should try getting a jump first and yes the lights are dim while battery is connected and this is a new replacement battery.. shouldn't the lights be brighter with everything replaced being new???

 

And should I check my backup reverse lights to see if the neutral safety switch is good. ???

 

Check the cable contacts, see if it'll jump start. The dim lights may/may not be the battery but if it'll jump start it takes quite a few things off the table, solenoid, starter, neutral safety etc. if you can check the battery with a volt meter, or charge it back up (if low) and take it to be load tested it would help prove out the battery as cause..

The start/crank function comes from the ignition switch on through the Neutral Safety, P//N, but even if the reverse lamps work the crank function could possibly fail.. Most times if it's the neutral safety if it won't crank in P, it'll crank in N..
The reason for the dim lights needs to be checkled before condemning circuit components..