1989 crown victoria not turning over
#12
With it cabled up for the jump, did the headlights get bright? Y/N?
Cables get hot trying to crank the engine?
Ground at the block is tight, clean?
If the battery is hot/fully charged,, batt cables connections, block grounding clean/tight, you can jump the solenoid (ignition trigger to batt positive) with the ignition off. and the starter should crank the engine over without a start..
Sometimes some of the bargain jump cables are 'very small' wire gauge and they tend to be less than optimal for larger Amp demands for a dead or very low battery, but the cars lighting should have at least brightened up when connected.
Cables get hot trying to crank the engine?
Ground at the block is tight, clean?
If the battery is hot/fully charged,, batt cables connections, block grounding clean/tight, you can jump the solenoid (ignition trigger to batt positive) with the ignition off. and the starter should crank the engine over without a start..
Sometimes some of the bargain jump cables are 'very small' wire gauge and they tend to be less than optimal for larger Amp demands for a dead or very low battery, but the cars lighting should have at least brightened up when connected.
#15
Yes the lights were bright before I turn the key.. Then they went dim once I tried cranking the car.. a clicking sound near solenoid I heard while turning the key.. it's just frustrating to change out all them parts.. and car still won't crank.. I never thought of jumping the solenoid
#16
Jumping the solenoid will prove out, battery, solenoid and starter.. Takes ignition switch, neutral safety off the diagnostic plate..
If the cars batt 'negative to block' ground is poor, even a jump assist will prove poor since it relys on a good grounding to the car to complete the starters circuit. whereas the batt positive remains the same since it's just basically a cable extension of sorts. A poor ground at the block will affect lighting as well as starter functions.. Not so much low volt/amp needs, but as soon as the power demand increases, the limited connection fails.. May/may not be your issue, but certainly something to check and move on...
If the cars batt 'negative to block' ground is poor, even a jump assist will prove poor since it relys on a good grounding to the car to complete the starters circuit. whereas the batt positive remains the same since it's just basically a cable extension of sorts. A poor ground at the block will affect lighting as well as starter functions.. Not so much low volt/amp needs, but as soon as the power demand increases, the limited connection fails.. May/may not be your issue, but certainly something to check and move on...
#19
Pretty common for those repair clamp ends to suffer a bad connection 'under' that metal pinch clamp held down with the two 7/16 head 1/4x20 bolts. Make sure it's good on the Pos,, and that the ground cable connection is tight, clean, at all points of contact.
Could be its suffering a voltage/amp drop out, more so if the battery tests spec..
Could be its suffering a voltage/amp drop out, more so if the battery tests spec..
Last edited by Hayapower; 09-02-2017 at 01:29 PM.
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