2001 E150 Front hub adjusting nut torque
#1
2001 E150 Front hub adjusting nut torque
My Haynes manual calls for a 3 step method to tighten these nuts, 17-25 ft/lbs, then back off 1/2 turn, then 22-25 ft/lbs.
I have tested this with my Craftsman beam type torque wrench, and found that it only takes about 12 ft/lbs to remove any lateral movement in the hub, and keep a fair amount of free spin left.
Using their numbers the hub seems to be way to tight, with little free spin left, as if its partially locked up.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have tested this with my Craftsman beam type torque wrench, and found that it only takes about 12 ft/lbs to remove any lateral movement in the hub, and keep a fair amount of free spin left.
Using their numbers the hub seems to be way to tight, with little free spin left, as if its partially locked up.
Any help would be appreciated.
#3
no way the final torque is more than the seating torque. are you reading the units correctly?
the final torque for the procedure I have is 17 inch/lbs not 20ft lbs.
when your done the play should be negilible. if you were to loosen the nut with you fingers slightly and shake the hub...you should feel play.
the final torque for the procedure I have is 17 inch/lbs not 20ft lbs.
when your done the play should be negilible. if you were to loosen the nut with you fingers slightly and shake the hub...you should feel play.
#4
I removed the hub/rotor to replace it with a new one.
I have double checked the Haynes manual, the 1st step is 17-25 ft/lb, then 1/2 turn off, then 22-25 in/lbs (not ft/lbs)
I assumed the inch/lb was a typo, because it seems like such a small amount of torque to hold a wheel in place.......
I have double checked the Haynes manual, the 1st step is 17-25 ft/lb, then 1/2 turn off, then 22-25 in/lbs (not ft/lbs)
I assumed the inch/lb was a typo, because it seems like such a small amount of torque to hold a wheel in place.......
#5
The reason I asked what was replaced is because when new or reused bearings and races are installed the outer races may not be fully seated in the hub and that could produce a problem. As long as you are sure the races were fully seated, bearings repacked, and new seal installed , we tightened the wheel nut enough to squeeze our the excess grease while rotating the rotor and creating a little preload then backed off the nut one flat and installed the lock over the nut so the cotter pin was able to slide into the spindle. That always left room for a little ply as primem stated in an earlier post.
#6
OK guys thanks a lot for your help.
I have a much better feel for what needs to be done, although it's a little nerve-wracking to have such little torque, a nut retainer, and a cotter pin to keep your hub from falling off!
I have a much better feel for what needs to be done, although it's a little nerve-wracking to have such little torque, a nut retainer, and a cotter pin to keep your hub from falling off!
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