Ford Econoline E Series The full size van is alive and well at FMC, with the heart of the F series trucks in both cargo vans and passenger vans.

2001 E150 Front hub adjusting nut torque

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-01-2015, 07:51 PM
Polly's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
Default 2001 E150 Front hub adjusting nut torque

My Haynes manual calls for a 3 step method to tighten these nuts, 17-25 ft/lbs, then back off 1/2 turn, then 22-25 ft/lbs.

I have tested this with my Craftsman beam type torque wrench, and found that it only takes about 12 ft/lbs to remove any lateral movement in the hub, and keep a fair amount of free spin left.

Using their numbers the hub seems to be way to tight, with little free spin left, as if its partially locked up.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 08-01-2015, 08:34 PM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

Can I ask why you removed the hub and what if anything did you replace on/in it?
 
  #3  
Old 08-01-2015, 10:06 PM
primem's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 423
Default

no way the final torque is more than the seating torque. are you reading the units correctly?


the final torque for the procedure I have is 17 inch/lbs not 20ft lbs.


when your done the play should be negilible. if you were to loosen the nut with you fingers slightly and shake the hub...you should feel play.
 
  #4  
Old 08-02-2015, 10:40 AM
Polly's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
Default

I removed the hub/rotor to replace it with a new one.

I have double checked the Haynes manual, the 1st step is 17-25 ft/lb, then 1/2 turn off, then 22-25 in/lbs (not ft/lbs)

I assumed the inch/lb was a typo, because it seems like such a small amount of torque to hold a wheel in place.......
 
  #5  
Old 08-02-2015, 03:48 PM
hanky's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 14,647
Default

The reason I asked what was replaced is because when new or reused bearings and races are installed the outer races may not be fully seated in the hub and that could produce a problem. As long as you are sure the races were fully seated, bearings repacked, and new seal installed , we tightened the wheel nut enough to squeeze our the excess grease while rotating the rotor and creating a little preload then backed off the nut one flat and installed the lock over the nut so the cotter pin was able to slide into the spindle. That always left room for a little ply as primem stated in an earlier post.
 
  #6  
Old 08-03-2015, 01:29 PM
Polly's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
Default

OK guys thanks a lot for your help.

I have a much better feel for what needs to be done, although it's a little nerve-wracking to have such little torque, a nut retainer, and a cotter pin to keep your hub from falling off!
 
  #7  
Old 08-03-2015, 08:03 PM
primem's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 423
Default

that's more than the interference fit that holds sealed bearings.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
petec
Ford Econoline E Series
7
06-14-2013 03:49 PM
jrskydawg68
Ford F-250 & Ford F-350
2
02-20-2009 01:01 AM
Nick999
Ford F-250 & Ford F-350
1
01-21-2008 05:04 PM
bmarnall
Ford F-150
0
07-27-2007 08:17 PM
treetopp87
Ford Ranger
3
03-28-2007 07:33 PM



Quick Reply: 2001 E150 Front hub adjusting nut torque



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:32 PM.